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chrisrmerritt

Truck wont start!!

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Ok so I replaced my contacts in my starter a week ago when my truck wouldn't start that fixed that issue! Now tonight I went out to start it and I noticed that mt lift pump ran for only 3 to 5 seconds and then I waited for the :wts: to go out and it just cranks, and I get no codes. So I turned the key to the "off" position and then turned the key to the "on" position and this time the lift pump ran like it's supposed to for about 20 to 25 seconds, and the :wts: came back on and I waited for it to go out and tryed it again still just cranks with no codes:banghead:. Now iv'e only had the truck a year, and replaced the fuel filter twice and each time I bumped it like required but I had to crack the fuel lines to get the air out of the system to keep her running. Thought maybe this might be related to the issue Im having. As far as fuel pressure goes I dont have a fuel pressure guage yet so I have no idea what that is:doh:. Maybe my lift pump craped out on me? Is there a way I can test the fuel pressure coming into and out of the fuel canister, and the fuel going into the VP 44? If so how? Thanks in advance to everyone that shares there knowledge!!in helping me figure this out much appecaited!!!:thankyou::cheers:

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There should be a schrader valve on the inlet line going into the vp44. You can also pull one wire off of each intake heater relay and give the air filter a tiny shot of ether. If it fires than you have a fuel problem. But getting fuel pressure is the first mission.

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Mounted below drivers side battery. Follow the large wires under the intake manifold down to the relays. Then there will be four small wire with push on fittings. Just unhook the two outside wires so you are taking away a power or a negative off each solinoid.

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Ok then give the air filter it self a squirt of ether and try and fire it up right? How would I go about testing the fuel pressure with a pressure tester? Thanks for Baring with me on these dumb questions remember I'm new to this! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ya just as soon as it sprays, stop. Thats all you need. You need a pressire gauge with a screw on fitting for a schrader valve. I know there is threads on here with pictures and videos on how to test

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Ok sorry guys for the delay but I work nights and sleep during the day. Anyways I still have to get a can of ether to try Mopar1973Man's technique. But when I went to start it tonight it cranked real slow almost like a dead battery. So I'm going to test the batteries tomorrow and see what they read. But i was thinking it might be the Alternator cause it's the original with 136,000 on the clock. What do guys think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yea that's what I was thinking. On the test with the Alternator doesn't it have to be running? And to test it I would just do what u had done on your website correct? And as far as the voltage drop test on the main cables I just do that with a test light right? As far as the contacts go I just replaced them and the plunger a week ago due to it not starting.

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- - - Updated - - -

I was also looking for the link on here to find out how to test the HF fuel pressure? for that's what Mopartechnician recomended. Any idea where this link is located Mopar1973Man?

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Mopar1973Man, I was reading in your APPS reset section of your website, and correct me if I'm wrong but according to it i was supposed to reset my APPS when I disconnected the batteries, and reconnected them correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yea that's what I was thinking. On the test with the Alternator doesn't it have to be running? And to test it I would just do what u had done on your website correct? And as far as the voltage drop test on the main cables I just do that with a test light right? As far as the contacts go I just replaced them and the plunger a week ago due to it not starting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

- - - Updated - - -

I was also looking for the link on here to find out how to test the HF fuel pressure? for that's what Mopartechnician recomended. Any idea where this link is located Mopar1973Man?

Batteries you remove and test separately.

Alternator you remove and test on test bench. Also use a DVM and check AC volts output must be (0.1 AC Volts or LESS) or...

Main feed cables you use a DVM.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

As for fuel pressure...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

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If you can get the truck to an auto parts store they can perform a load test on your batteries and alternator at the same time. Takes less than 5 minutes. I would much rather do that than take the time to remove everything but if you can't get the truck there than you don't have much choice.The auto parts store will have a unit that draws half the CCA of the batteries which will determine if they are good or not. They will also hook a wire to the output of the alternator to check for voltage output.JR

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