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Truck wont start!!

chrisrmerritt
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chrisrmerritt

chrisrmerritt

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Ok so I replaced my contacts in my starter a week ago when my truck wouldn't start that fixed that issue! Now tonight I went out to start it and I noticed that mt lift pump ran for only 3 to 5 seconds and then I waited for the :wts: to go out and it just cranks, and I get no codes. So I turned the key to the "off" position and then turned the key to the "on" position and this time the lift pump ran like it's supposed to for about 20 to 25 seconds, and the :wts: came back on and I waited for it to go out and tryed it again still just cranks with no codes:banghead:. Now iv'e only had the truck a year, and replaced the fuel filter twice and each time I bumped it like required but I had to crack the fuel lines to get the air out of the system to keep her running. Thought maybe this might be related to the issue Im having. As far as fuel pressure goes I dont have a fuel pressure guage yet so I have no idea what that is:doh:. Maybe my lift pump craped out on me? Is there a way I can test the fuel pressure coming into and out of the fuel canister, and the fuel going into the VP 44? If so how? Thanks in advance to everyone that shares there knowledge!!in helping me figure this out much appecaited!!!:thankyou::cheers:

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chrisrmerritt

chrisrmerritt

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Ok sorry guys for the delay but I work nights and sleep during the day. Anyways I still have to get a can of ether to try Mopar1973Man's technique. But when I went to start it tonight it cranked real slow almost like a dead battery. So I'm going to test the batteries tomorrow and see what they read. But i was thinking it might be the Alternator cause it's the original with 136,000 on the clock. What do guys think? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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chrisrmerritt

chrisrmerritt

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Yea that's what I was thinking. On the test with the Alternator doesn't it have to be running? And to test it I would just do what u had done on your website correct? And as far as the voltage drop test on the main cables I just do that with a test light right? As far as the contacts go I just replaced them and the plunger a week ago due to it not starting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I was also looking for the link on here to find out how to test the HF fuel pressure? for that's what Mopartechnician recomended. Any idea where this link is located Mopar1973Man?

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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Yea that's what I was thinking. On the test with the Alternator doesn't it have to be running? And to test it I would just do what u had done on your website correct? And as far as the voltage drop test on the main cables I just do that with a test light right? As far as the contacts go I just replaced them and the plunger a week ago due to it not starting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

- - - Updated - - -

I was also looking for the link on here to find out how to test the HF fuel pressure? for that's what Mopartechnician recomended. Any idea where this link is located Mopar1973Man?

Batteries you remove and test separately.

Alternator you remove and test on test bench. Also use a DVM and check AC volts output must be (0.1 AC Volts or LESS) or...

Main feed cables you use a DVM.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

As for fuel pressure...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

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diesel4life

diesel4life

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If you can get the truck to an auto parts store they can perform a load test on your batteries and alternator at the same time. Takes less than 5 minutes. I would much rather do that than take the time to remove everything but if you can't get the truck there than you don't have much choice.The auto parts store will have a unit that draws half the CCA of the batteries which will determine if they are good or not. They will also hook a wire to the output of the alternator to check for voltage output.JR

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