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t04 turbo


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I have a turbo  with  serial #    neo128 A to4b51  

It's a  airesearch   for  a  Perkins  354.4     


The  t04b  is  (I am hoping,  the model???)    The  tag  also  has  the   Massey part number,  and  the perkins   number.   ( oem)


There are a load of   kits  for  t-3 t4,  and   t04b and t04e... all listed  the same  kit for  all of  those  models.       So  is it  safe to  assume  they  share  the  same  shaft bushings, thrust bushing, oil rings,  and  seals? 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A Agco or Detroit dealer should be able to tell you, Detroit now owns Perkins .

Wow!  I didn't know that!


Detroit  also  owns   40%   of  VM Motori....      maker of   the  engine  going into the new  Ram 1500's.... (also the  engine in the  Jeep I'm  looking at!)

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ok!  2 weeks later,  and  I got the  dagnab thing  pulled apart!


getting  the  turbo off the  manfold  (already removed from  cylinder head)  wasn't too bad.. still needed  heat.     Getting the    compressor housing off  was  good too..

Twisting off  half of the   turbine housing bolts  was  apparently easy too!  :duh:


No wonder the  local Massey service guy told me they  don't  screw around with rebuilding the turbo...   too many man hours to invest, only to have a  really screwed up  turbo in the end!

For  45 bucks,  I'll give it a shot!

These pics are of  the  'hard part'... the center housing is  presently residing in a  bucket of  mineral spirits.


Funny thing.... youtube  videos  showing  turbo  rebuilding   using    brand new turbos....  (sure,  they just  'fall' apart!)   :tongue:

Let me tell ya  friends....   this wasn't the case!

Taking the  compressor side off  was  easy..  no  heat  or  rust   to  make life fun.  BUT!...


post-980-0-46068700-1410381557_thumb.jpg    This is as  far as  I could get.    Usually,  the   turbine shroud  comes  out with the  shaft and  turbine...  I  left the  shaft behind here...


post-980-0-98819000-1410381306_thumb.jpg     The  shroud  was  really   tight/rusted/packed with carbon... take yer pick!     I heated up the  outside of the housing with a soft medium  flame...  and    gave a  quick   tap  with  a  ball peen hammer  (between  each  bolt hole)   I'm showing  the point of impact and angle of  the hammer  with my  screwdriver in the pic


post-980-0-38328400-1410381710_thumb.jpg    a lttle tap  on the  end of the  turbine shaft  popped it out.   This is  after  some wire brushing.. geez, before all of this, I couldn't even see the parting line  between  the shroud and the  turbine housing..  It was  rusted over, making it appear as  one continuous  unit.


post-980-0-18553200-1410381165_thumb.jpg    ready for  final  scrubbing  and    I'll   fish the center housing  out of the  spirits.   should have it back together  tonight.


As far as the  'left behind'  bolts in the  housing..  I    did the old trick:

clean up the  busted end of the  bolt.   weld  a little  bubble  on the  end of  bolt.   Put  a  same-sized  flat washer over the  busted bolt.   weld this  whole thing over.   weld a  nut to the  washer.  ALLOW TO COOL!! 

then,  heat up the housing on both sides of the  bolt....   and  start  wiggling  the  bolt out  back and  forth to  get the  Kroil  (rust buster)  worked into the threads...



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ahh..  back together!  at least the  center part.   waiting on  new bolts and  plates to finish the job.


Apparently,   there was  either  left hand nut or right hand  for the compressor wheel.  Of  course,   mine needs  the right hand.  The kit  came  with  left...    

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Sounds like quite the project!! I just hope I don't run into this kind of stuff when I go to rebuild my HX35. Seems like the 35 is a very simple turbo, all things considered though.

Simple as  a rope! 

   Actually,  I had to use  every trick in my knowledge base  to get that thing separated..     I'd recommend  to anyone   several days    on  getting it  apart.  Some things  just can't be  rushed.    There is  one  trick  I  just learned,  and  really don't know if it's  a  good one:    Candle wax.     Supposedly,   you melt  a candle on the hot surface of  a  rusted joint... and  the   molten wax   seeps into  the joint,  and  when it  cools,  supposedly expands..  which may  push the  stuck pieces apart... 


This was on an  ag tractor..  and   was  prone to  all the weather...  even with a hood,  the rain would  run down along side the  exhaust pipe,  and   keep the turbo soggy.


Getting the  oil rings  to  snap back into the bores  was easier than I imagined too.

I did a   radial and  axial  measurement..  Before I  put the bearings in,  it was just  'outside' the  maximum allowable..     Now, it measures  right in the middle of  the  'good zone'.     I'm rebuilding the  whole engine, and figured now was  a good time to   freshen up  the  turbo.

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