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its beat to death but i gotta ask , lift pump issues uhhg


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so first i will say hello! and nice to see a freindly forum . now heres my issue i have a 98.5 24 valve , mild chip , 5 speed and 230000 kms on the clock . now my fuel pressur gauge reads around 13 psi when doing hiway speeds but then out of no where it hits 5 psi intantly! then after a little while it pops back up to 13 . the guy i just bought this truck from said '' ohh yeah its been doing that for 4 years!'' . so my question is do i drive this truck ? should i order a 700 dollar lift pump? or is there a more simple solution to this?. but i will tell you i am going to get a aftermarket lift pump but i cant get it for at least a week where i am located and i need this truck to drive a 100 kms to work! im stressed out , let me know what ya think :)

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Possibly the gauge going bad...I know it's been four years(if the guy is on the up with you), but maybe it's something simple as that. IMO, even if it's going to 5 psi the odd time when i'm going along,as long as majority of the time it's high like you said, I would still drive it until my pump gets here, but be prepared if it goes lower like 2-3 psi, to pull over and call for a tow rather than running it further and risk frying the VP. Just a thought as i'm typing...does the gauge have an isolator? maybe that's the problem :pray:

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  • Owner

Is it a electric sender gauge? If so does the electric sender have a needle valve or snubber before it? If not the replace the sender. _____________________________________ If the gauge is mechanical the I would be cvhecking the lift pump soon... _____________________________________ Now stock lift pump have been known to slip the plastic hub inside the rotor head...

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  • Owner

Ouch... Well let me give you a link for reading material... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer Snubber or a needle valve prevents water hammer from beating the gauge to death. Because the VP44 tends to open and close valves rapidily so the gauge might be buzzing. This is water hammer occuring live! It quite literally beating the gears against each other. But as for the rapid fall fo fuel pressure it looks like you might need a fuel pump... It should NEVER fall below 10 PSI ever... So I would consider a Raptor or like another member brought up a new setup with Holley HP150... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley (New idea)

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all saskatchewan has for pumps in the province is fass , so looks like thats what im gonnna get i guess . the one with thw filters and all , 645.00 canadian , now thats an ouch but it could be worse lol , anything else you fellahs think i should look for on this truck ? its new to me so i would like to know the problem areas , cheap fixes and or upgrades etc . i took the silencer ring out of the turbo, it has no muffler , and other then that mild chip its copletly stock but there does seem to be a hose plugged off and hanging inder the turbo . and the waste gate or something like that seems to be disconnected. oh and one other thing about the fuel pressure , whe driving at hiway speeds and when the fuel pressure dropped to 5 psi i tried turning the key off and coasted still in gear for a second and then turning the key back on again , after doing this the fuel pressure popped back up to 13 , but then fell to 5 after a half a mile so i kept doing this hoping it would stick to 13 . well it didnt but what it did do is make my check engine light come on . so just gotta ask what made my light come on just from turning the truck off and on when coastng ?

Edited by ranger125
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Hey Ranger,Welcome. If you don't mind ordering a pump, Jkidd (one of this sites vendors) has some great deals and is an excellent guy to do business with. With the mild mods you have, a Raptor 100 would be plenty of pump and would save you money (list price is $389.00 American). This is a very reliable pump with a lifetime warranty. The installation is easy and you don't need to add a Draw straw to the fuel tank. If you run a Baldwin PF7977 filter in your stock filter housing, you'll get excellent filtration and water separation for less money than the Fass.

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hmmm!!!!!!!! thats very tempting! but it would take a while to get here and if i needed parts or warranty it would also be a lil bit of a hassel im thinking . im in northern saskatchewan in the middle of nowhere haha . but thank you for the info , next time i will look into that . i need the truck this weekend so im between a rock and a hard place :cool:

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okay on the factory fuel filter housing my fuel pressure gauge hose is mounted to a port next to the exit side od the filter housing . is that right?? and also there is some kind of sensor on the bottom of the housing , what is that?? also! lol i bought a new upgraded factory delphi aka carter pump and got even worse prerssure!!!!!:mad: 8 psi wot , 10 psi at hiway speeds and 13 to 14 at idle . what gives! im gonna order a 700 dollar fass 150 system tomorrow if this is the only option i have . im getting frustrated with this thing and yes i did compare gauges using another port on my filter housing . soooooooooo whats the deal here fellahs?

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  • Owner

I've seen brand new Carter pumps, Campaign Pumps, and yes even a Carter 4601 fail right out of the box... Make you sick to hook up a brand new pump and it performing worse than the one you just replaced! :banghead: Yes I've been here many of time and that is one of the reason I pushed for the AirDog and bit the bullet... :spend::broke: So that's my view on it but doesn't mean its the right choice for you...

and also there is some kind of sensor on the bottom of the housing , what is that??

I'm going to guess a WIF sensor?? :shrug:
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that sensor is in the bottom of the bowl that holds your stock fuel filter , im gonna get the fass system but not sure if i should get the 95 gph or the bigger one , there the same price her so is more gph better?? and it says on the fass site that with more fuel flow i will get a code ? fuel pressure code or something and now i need to get a STK 1001 part from them to correct the problem?? wow do i have alot of questions lol , one more haha , in the fass site is says nothing about keeping your stock filter sooooooo what happens to my fuel heater and that mystery sensor in the bottom??

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Is it a electric sender gauge? If so does the electric sender have a needle valve or snubber before it? If not the replace the sender. _____________________________________ If the gauge is mechanical the I would be cvhecking the lift pump soon... _____________________________________ Now stock lift pump have been known to slip the plastic hub inside the rotor head...

This is a little off topic, but every time I see that Carter rotor pic, I think of Nazi's. Maybe Obama was poking around in here, and that is why he used the pick up truck comments against Scott Brown? :lol:
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that sensor is in the bottom of the bowl that holds your stock fuel filter , im gonna get the fass system but not sure if i should get the 95 gph or the bigger one , there the same price her so is more gph better?? and it says on the fass site that with more fuel flow i will get a code ? fuel pressure code or something and now i need to get a STK 1001 part from them to correct the problem?? wow do i have alot of questions lol , one more haha , in the fass site is says nothing about keeping your stock filter sooooooo what happens to my fuel heater and that mystery sensor in the bottom??

The STK 1001 is FASS's version of a Draw Staw. It's basically a 1/2 tube that you install in you fuel tank to avoid the restriction of the stock fuel pick. You must install one if you have an in-tank fuel pump. Is FASS recommending this with both pumps or just the 150? AirDog only requires it with their bigger pump. Installing the STK 1001 will require dropping the fuel tank or removing the truck bed. Not a huge deal but it will add to installation time. Both pumps will pump much more volume than your injection pump requires. The excess volume is returned to the fuel tank and wont harm anything or cause a code. The fuel heater in the stock fuel canister will only keep the stock filter from being clogged by gelled fuel. It wont do anything to prevent the two Fass filters from gelling. But I would keep the stock fuel canister if it was me. The FASS 150 system does have a 3 micron filter available so filtration isn't an issue but the FASS 95 only has a 10 micron filter available. Also, water separation isn't very good with the Fass at just 50% free water separation (emulsified separation is unknown) it's not very effective. If you keep the stock filter canister, you can use a Baldwin PF 7977 which will give you 5 micron filtration and separate 99% of free water and 95% of emulsified water. Edited by edcasey
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wow awesome info , but i still dont know what the sensor on the bottom side , right around the edge of the fuel canister is lol , im still searching around. i bougth the fass 150 system cause it was all they had here and it was the same price as the fass 95 . it states i dont need a new draw straw just to use the factory one . also is a 150gph gonna be too much hot fuel running back to my tank? will it heat my fuel to the point where its pumping hot fuel to the vp 44? i have a 130 litre tank but in the summer at +30c it wouldent take much to get that fuel hot lol . thx for the info guys . huge help!:cool:

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  • Owner

awesome , i installed it , went well actually , i get 13 psi wot and 14.5 at idle . this seema a lil low to me ? im wondering if my pressure relief valve on the out side of my vp 44 is stuck open ?? what are your thoughts ?

Actually I'm thinking the spring on regulator is too weak on the FASS... Call your dealer and I'm sure they got some different springs. Even I've heard this issue with AirDog pumps too... Like on my personal AirDog pump I pulled the regulator spring out and used a washer with the proper OD and ID sizes and shimed the spring up.
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