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Need help removing rotor 1999 3500

Hawkez
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Hawkez

Hawkez

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Yeah the extension trick usually works great :thumb1: . Another thought I had if its not too late. If you are like many of us running around with ABS/BRAKE lites on, it is often caused by the front ABS sensors failing. The only way to replace them on an inboard rotor truck is to remove the rotor and all that goes with that because the rotor covers them. So now would be a good time to replace them. Of course if you did new hubs you got new sensors anyway.

I haven't had any issues with an ABS light.  One of the lines had been chaffing but there was no sign of bare wire.  I reinforced that area so hopefully no future issues.  Everything is ready to go back in and now I am just waiting for my new rotors to arrive.

 

It was my original plan to rebuild my calipers, but after hours of trying to seat the dust boot I gave up.  I can't get in no matter how much I have tried.  The FSM shows a caliper with two pistons, my truck has a single piston and no matter what I have tried I can't get the seal to seat.  It will be $60 for a new set of calipers, not sure that is too bad of a deal compared to how much time I have invested in trying to rebuild them.

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dave110

dave110

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.  The FSM shows a caliper with two pistons, my truck has a single piston and no matter what I have tried I can't get the seal to seat.  It will be $60 for a new set of calipers, not sure that is too bad of a deal compared to how much time I have invested in trying to rebuild them.

That's another area where us 99 guys got cheated :) . I'm not sure when the twin pistons showed up but we don't have them. Seems the front brakes are still plenty strong compared to the back. I'm with you on the reman calipers. I like to do things myself also, but an in-shop (my shop) rebuild is worth more than $60. If I was retired, OK, but I'm not. So I figure my time in to things like that.

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rancherman

rancherman

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That's another area where us 99 guys got cheated :) . I'm not sure when the twin pistons showed up but we don't have them. Seems the front brakes are still plenty strong compared to the back. I'm with you on the reman calipers. I like to do things myself also, but an in-shop (my shop) rebuild is worth more than $60. If I was retired, OK, but I'm not. So I figure my time in to things like that.

my 2000  has   dual pistons.   Awaiting  arrival  of  new ones  as-we-speak.  

Pistons  were  5 bucks and  change each,  seal kit  was 3 bucks per caliper,   guide pins, bushings, and rubber boots  was another  6,  and  I'm  going to try  the  'speedy bleed'  bleeder screws from Dorman.

 

going to do a little searching to see if there is any 'trick' to popping in the new boots..

 

Man,   I'd agree  with you on some of this  re manned  stuff, (price versus our  'time')    But  after my   debacle of  a  CARDONE  steering gear lasting   8 months..     Plus  I  am  'teaching'  my kid how to get  his hands  dirty too..

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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I got my new rotors and hubs back on.  Bled the brakes after I installed the new calipers on both sides.  The tires are back on and my braking issues are a thing of the past.  Now I have small oil drip coming from my right axle. 

:mad:   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

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rancherman

rancherman

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I got my new rotors and hubs back on.  Bled the brakes after I installed the new calipers on both sides.  The tires are back on and my braking issues are a thing of the past.  Now I have small oil drip coming from my right axle. 

:mad:   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

Right axle isn't too bad..  not easy,  but  not too bad!   figure  3-4 hours   start to finish..

Don't have to  drop the  carrier out of the housing,..   to replace the seal.   I slid the  inner shaft out too, give a little more room  to install the new seal.

You will want to replace the  plastic bushing  in the end of the shaft when you  pull it  apart!  (or make dang sure it  in there when you do!)      

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Hawkez

Hawkez

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Right axle isn't too bad..  not easy,  but  not too bad!   figure  3-4 hours   start to finish..

Don't have to  drop the  carrier out of the housing,..   to replace the seal.   I slid the  inner shaft out too, give a little more room  to install the new seal.

You will want to replace the  plastic bushing  in the end of the shaft when you  pull it  apart!  (or make dang sure it  in there when you do!)      

If nothing else the hub/rotor assembly should come apart with no issues.  I've been reading hint/tips/tricks online and it doesn't seems too bad. I need to find a place to rent seal seating tool or make something out of all tread.  But I won't start that for a few weeks.

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rancherman

rancherman

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If nothing else the hub/rotor assembly should come apart with no issues.  I've been reading hint/tips/tricks online and it doesn't seems too bad. I need to find a place to rent seal seating tool or make something out of all tread.  But I won't start that for a few weeks.

I lucked out,  I had  some  threaded rod  from  a  engine sleeve pulling set,  and  used  an  adapter from my ball joint press, and  a couple of   large washers.  I pulled it  a little,  backed off to see if it was started straight.  It wasn't.   So I tapped  the  'high side' in a little to  even it out, and  pulled some more.

Tfaoro  recommended   grinding a  very slight bevel on the leading edge of the   seal..   I  only   buffed off the green paint with a wire wheel.

Pull it  in until it  bottoms out  in the bore. 

OH!  btw,   when you  run the  threaded rod in to   pull the new seal,   wrap  some  electrical tape on the  threads  so they don't  chew up the seal as you pass the rod through!!

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rancherman

rancherman

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:mad:   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

you don't have to be  overly ginger  when  putting the axle back in..    There's a  'funnel/guide'  on the  seal itself,  which   guides  the  axle  up  and through the seal..  Still,  you don't want to   ape- chuck  it in!     :whistle:

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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you don't have to be  overly ginger  when  putting the axle back in..    There's a  'funnel/guide'  on the  seal itself,  which   guides  the  axle  up  and through the seal..  Still,  you don't want to   ape- chuck  it in!     :whistle:

 

He's right there is a funnel at the end of the tube to help guide the axle shaft back into the carrier/splines. I remember the old days on my 72 Dodge of having to lever or lift the shaft into place. :duh:

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