Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins


Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Me78569 said:

You'll want to tighten the positions for the 40,000 rpm and above band.  I can look at the code and refresh myself later and tell you the line number to adjust.

Thanks man! You rock, I had to replace the actuator with one from City diesel an it works nicely, but I believe i`m not getting a vane test thats working right, it does one cycle says done then goes to the data page.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 is where the turbo starts when you leave a stop

2 is the rpm limits for each step of the turbo related to shaft speed.  

3 is the limit for vane position when the rpm range from 2 is reached.  

 

 

If you are having trouble getting the turbo over 80,000 rpm then I would make #3 be something like {840,800,780,760,740}  and try again.   

 

 

for the calibration function the turbo should walk %100 open then walk back to %100 close and then be done.

 

Screenshot 2022-10-16 075423.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Exhaust brake doesnt seem to work right now either, I`m wondering if it is a bad cable setup, though it might be something on our end.

2K RPM on the engine an up seems to be a bit more snappy, but down between 1K an 2K it feels weak still, I have a smarty touch on the 90HP tune so it has fuel to spare, but Im wondering if I need to change the RPM curve now? It seems like its opening up to soon an letting the drive pressure drop off, the turbine is a HX40 67MM upgrade with a machined out exhaust housing to allow better flow for no drive pressure spikes during towing, i`m wondering if it flows so nicely that its not allowing good drive cause its letting off to soon?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

your drive to boost should be like 1.5:1 untl shaft speeds are above 100,000 rpm.    i wouldn't mess with the rpm curve, only the position curve.  each "50" is .5 cm of housing size.  

Does the size go up or down with the number as in high or low? So 1000 would be *small* and 50 would be *full open*??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Me78569 said:

the approx conversion of opening size is right at the bottom area of the image I linked this morning.  

Yeah sorry, I`m going to take the turbo apart next weekend an make sure i have the arm/VGT ring setup right, im wondering if its not back at proper zero to start with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I drove it to work before I left for Mt weekly route and it is much more useful then before, I adjusted the rpm curve some. I had to make the housing settings fairly tight or it let off way to fast, by 60k rpm it would go and open to 9cm or More and jt would barely make anything. Cruise at 72 or so, I run 4psi B/DP and its steady as a rock, egt 700 to 800. At just 20pai of boost on a pull it freight trains with no problem, I wonder if the air filter i have is so small that it js the limit for overall boost? Hitting 35psi and up is a huge choir that takes ages 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

humm I guess times have changed since I created this.  when I bought my 9924 chip it came with a 10 pin pcb board to get soldiered to.   I attached the board to the red breadboard / screewboard adapter that sat on top of the Arduino.   

 

 

you are looking for UMAX-10 pcb

Edited by Me78569
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

humm I guess times have changed since I created this.  when I bought my 9924 chip it came with a 10 pin pcb board to get soldiered to.   I attached the board to the red breadboard / screewboard adapter that sat on top of the Arduino.   

 

 

you are looking for UMAX-10 pcb

This is what I have to use as a pin breakout 

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Breakout-Shield-Module-Arduino/dp/B08LH5TCM5?pd_rd_w=08Uv4&content-id=amzn1.sym.3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_p=3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_r=3BXJJ0ZSXQH23PFQMB95&pd_rd_wg=99JM4&pd_rd_r=d02b3756-d0af-4761-89e2-ba517c9f2e75&pd_rd_i=B08LH5TCM5&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_1_qv

 

 

That umax board won't work with this, will it? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

when we got the parts for me and my buddies, we only could find the chip an not a board. So he had to soder it up as well, I had to rebuild my turbo to make sure it was good, I think i put the arm back into the place it was supposed to be from last time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think the board will fit onto that shield, but man that is a cool shield.   I wish that was around when I did mine.   

 

I am not sure of a great way to hook up the 9924 chip with that setup.   I don't really remember which wires are needed on the 9924 anymore.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, might have to do some thinking and digging on this, I just got my exhaust rebuilt an back on today as a single turbo. When it starts the turbo does its homing setup, which you hear as the brake kicks in, then when i hit the EB button, nothing happens. So i`m wondering whats up. EB shows up on the screen, but the turbo dont do the dance.

Edited by Mystykal
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Me78569 said:

I don't think the board will fit onto that shield, but man that is a cool shield.   I wish that was around when I did mine.   

 

I am not sure of a great way to hook up the 9924 chip with that setup.   I don't really remember which wires are needed on the 9924 anymore.  

What was the breadboard you used? And is the chip necessary? That breakout board has pins for stacking a shield on it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
×
×
  • Create New...