2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain
Discussion of the 1994 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins Turbo Diesel non-power train. This includes interior, air conditioning, heating, lighting, body, suspension, brakes, stereos, etc.
2,744 topics in this forum
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My hydroboost has been leaking for sometime and since its such a fine spray of high pressure fluid it has made a mess out of the drivers side fender area. The brakes work fine, the power steering does wine from time to time when the fluid starts getting low though. It seems a shame to replace the whole unit when the leak is just between the master and the hydroboost. Anyone ever reseal one of these? I found some kits here http://www.piratejack.net/Hydro-Boost-Rebuild-Kits.html Kit 50 is what the Cummins Ram's need.
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I've been looking around for some time for some additional lighting. Anyone install aftermarkets in their Sport model. I;m not sure of the mounting. Looked at a non sport model, one that was on a lift, looks like there was a mounting place for a factory bracket. Any ideas?Thanks, Dave
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I have a '99 24v 5.9 auto tranny and I need a apps connector. I have checking different wrecking yards with no luck.Does anybody know where I can get one.I live in Spokane, WA area. thank you
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My truck is a 2002 2500 HO NON sport truck. For Christmas my wife bought me some of the projector lights (also called angel eye headlights). Before installing the lights I bought the heavy duty wire harness from LMC truck. The one with the relays and pulls its power from the battery. I have installed this harness already. This headlight kit converts the single bulb 9004 to an H1/9005 setup (like the sport model). To make the system work properly, the instructions say to swap the high beam and ground pins in the headlight harness plug. My question is, there are 3 wires in the harness but, which wires I need to swap to make this lights perform properly. Also.. what is the t…
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Hi Guys, I've noticed the rubber on my OEM Michelin's is getting down... admittedly I don't go off road except on the grass but occasionally the roads will have a crap load of snow on them. I am really NOT sold on the current trend to low sidewall tires on trucks. So what's decent snow rubber, that won't break the bank... Russ
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my meck. says that I need a new track bar. just replaced steering box and steering pump. any suggestions on which to use? are the bushings replaceable?
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How do you get your scan guage to show fuel flow when idling? When my truck is idling it will show no fuel flow until i start moving and put a small load on the motor
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Probably wondering why I mounted backup lights on my rear axle. Simple... I originally had mounted a set of driving lights on the back bumper. About a year later while I was out in the woods collecting fire wood I back up over a pile of rocks and crushed a light. Well in the near future I start thinking about new locations to mount the new lights. So after hunting around the truck for a spot that won't get hit. I found the rear axle. The light as guarded by the axle while you rolling forward and the are also guarded by the sway bar while backing up. Contact me for information on ordering a Backup light kit.
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Hi All, The broken E brake... I brought up in my General Topics post viewtopic.php?f=23&t=382 I can see the front cable is moving in & out with the pedal. There's no resistance. I dragged a hunk of cardboard out & took a quick look under the truck. On the drivers side, outside the frame rail the front is connected to the drivers side rear. There's a thin rusted bracket attached to the rear cable but it's adrift. The attachment for the passengers side is there but not attached to anything. A push / pull cable requires the cover to be anchored at both ends. I imagine the rusty bracket was welded to something. The truck is very rusty underneath…
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Well gang... I got a write now for the CCD netwrok and how it operates. So for those of you that have the CCD error on your overhead console and weird problems with the ABS/Brake lights and maybe the gauge cluster I would day its a CCD network problem... So go here and read up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm
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Ok Mopar Man. I own a 99 24v, recently sold my 98 12v quad cab long box, lift, 37's 389HP, custom paint I mixed up(based of a kia color, yea i worked in auto body for three years) I built it from the frame up, three months and many blood sweet and beers ` Anyways, I have installed 02 fog lights via toggle switch activated relay, my pickup was a non fog light rig. I also have my low beams on at all times. I just shorted the power wire from the headlight switch when the headlights are on to the low beam kicker wire in the multi-function switch. My problem is I have installed 100w aircraft lights on my bumper, much like yours and the ones i have in my rear bumper i buil…
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HELP! My seat belts wont extend out om my 99 1 ton. The seatbelt warning light goes out, after a few sec it will come back on. checked the fuse and its fiine. Always worked fine before untill yesterday, Any one have clue whats up with this? My emal is ( gjer@npgcable.com ) Thanks, Jerry
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02 2500 CTD. Dealer replaced the front brakes (calipers and rotors I think) before I bought it. My first impression was that the pedal felt firm and the brakes were smooth and responsive and 99.5% of the time they are. It seems like the ABS is kicking in on occasion under heavier braking. Not knowing the ABS feel in this truck, I would describe the pedal as getting harder to push, downward pedal motion becomes jerky, there is more of a grinding noise than the ABS whir I am used to, and decreased braking performance. I have to try some more things to reproduce it but it seems that being pointed downhill, first brake application after start up, braking when making hard…
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(Copied fro TDG.com) Ok guys and gals. After doing some researching and studying old pics I had, I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the PCM quits working. Symptoms are either no charge or overcharge, however they are designed to fail in a no charge state. After insuring your alternator, batteries, and crank sensor are all good you can then use this diagram and save yourself about $800 on a new PCM. The alternator is a open field external regulated type. There fore it makes it easy to do this mod. What you will need is a voltage regulator from an 89' or older Dodge/Ch…
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My question is how do you remove the drum without special tooling... Back the shoe adjustment and it should slide off... If the drum should get tighter (or won't move) you know you going the wrong way... Last trick... Jack up the truck and put it on block in the rear and block the front axle from roling good... Then pull the tires off. Then take the lug nuts and thread them back on. Not tight mind you... Then start the truck and put in to a forward gear. Get a bit of speed and then mash on the brakes... The rear drums should pop loose. But the lugs will keep it from flying... I don't like this method but it does work if done right... Becaref…
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Use a BIG 3 jaw puller and then whacked it with a BFH. They were stuck on very tight. I don't know a better way than that. Hopefully with replacing the joints with greasable ones they won't need replaced for a long time. Or... Loosen the 4 bolts the thread a couple in part way and put and socket and extention on them and turn the wheel left or right and jam the extention into the axle and it should push them out......do each side a bit at a time and be sure to anti sieze the hub when replacing
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Hey Gang... Once again I'm looking for some help with my truck. Lately my rear brakes have been binding up and dragging. I clean the rails the shoes ride on and the shoes themselves. Externally mostly lost of mud and dirt. Well I popped out a piston to check the bores for problems and found that sand and very small stones under the weather boots. (I can't figure out how they got there...) But found that the sand and debris has worked its way under the O-rings in the calipers. Now my problem is that everything is fine except the O-rings which has taken some damage. (Deformed, nicks, etc.) Now I went to the local NAPA store and they don't list any rebuild kit…
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Anyone know what wires do what in the plugs?I'm putting a heated power seat from a 2000 ram in a 01.5 ram,plugs are different,and my 01 had el cheapo seats in it,so it's only got 2 wires....must be the seatbelt warning.Trying to wire the darn heat controls in is going to be a PITA...Thanks in advance!
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What was that gage cluster check you had on your tips and tricks site?I was gonna print it out but didnt get a chance.
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This procedure is for rear disc brake trucks. First block the front tires so the truck can't roll. Then jack up the rear axle of the truck till the tires are off the ground. Use jack stand under the rear axle. Don't set the brake! SAFETY FIRST! Now crawl under truck. The pic shown here is the driver side axle hub. There will be a notch in the bracket and in the notch is a rubber plug. You'll need a pair of needle nose pliers to reach in and pull the plug out. Now take a flashlight and look in the notch and you'll see a star wheel. You need to use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the star wheel. Check the wheel for drag by turning. If the shoes start to dr…
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