2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

I had a guy comment on that list video saying he wanted this. I searched and searched and cannot believe there isn't anything on it other than directions. Really sucks when everything I search for with the words P7100 just smacks me in the face with my own stuff. So here it is. Let me know if you see anything wrong, other than the metals shavings

Finally got around to doing this. Apparently youtube thinks I'm a loser now so I had to split it up. Other one is still loading but I'm leaving so it will pop up when it's done. Let me know what you guys think.

I recently changed injectors to 5x0.010, the truck runs great, but I had a question as to what EGT is normal for these trucks. This is what I have.1997 2500 auto 4x4; #0 plate full back (as in toward the cab); 3.55 gears; 265/75/16 tires; ranch hand bumper; AFC full back; Starwheel full forward I think that is all that would affect EGT.My EGT doing about 55-60 when climbing a relatively small hill will rise to 800 degrees easily and sometimes 900 without me accelerating. I will be doing about 7-8 psi of boost and EGT will climb rapidly. Just under normal acceleration... taking about 30 seconds to reach 60mph, egt will reach 700-800 degrees. Doing 70mph EGT will run about …

well boys and girls i picked up a new toy last week and have been deciding what to do with it and figured its time to quit avoiding it and just do it and all out build from the ground up. here is what i want it to do but havent made any real attachments to these ideas so this could go any which way. looking to build a street driven monster just a flat out doomsday machine with a need for speed and an appetite for tires, want to push the limits of 650 + ponies, did i mention its a 215 horse engine out of a bus, i want to maintain longevity as much as possible. tell me what you guys have tried as far as part combinations injectors, cams, girdles, springs, gov. springs, pist…

Seems a lot of people don't even know where to start or what to look for or anything, so I'm gonna make a complete list of everything to check off the list that could possibly be a problem. I encourage everyone to comment on mistakes I made or additions to be made to this list. I am going to also put a number 1-5 between least likely (1) and most likely (5) based on what seems to always be trouble with these things. Like a dirty fuel filter is an easy culprit that people who buy a new truck can overlook if it's their first diesel, so it would be a 4 or 5. This will be pretty general so you guys will have to google some things or start a thread on somet…

I keep reading about people whose trucks pop while they are all screwed up. My truck has never popped. I helped a guy one time who didn't have fuel getting to his injectors and when I finally tracked down the loose connection and it started, he revved it up a little and it popped for a second. I can't figure out why. Then other guys have issues with timing and it pops. What causes the popping! I want to get to the bottom of this in full detail because it seems to sometimes happen and sometimes not. Like I said, mine has never done it, so what causes it?

Hiya's, I have a 97 Dodge 3500 Cummins. Bought this truck a little less than 2 years ago. Trans was SUPPOSED to have been rebuilt 30K miles before I bought it, I've put about 10K on it since then. Anyway, In the last week or so, it needed more throttle to get the truck rolling than normal. I figured I'd change the fluid, filter, and adjust the bands, (trans pan and original filter were clean as can be) all went well, no issues there but trans still feels the same. Dropped the pan again, rechecked the band adjustment, ok. Pulled the gov solenoid, no debris on the screens, cleaned it all out anyway. Same issue. Scanned it, no codes. While messing with it I found that if I…

Guys I've been reading about a lot of hustle and bustle on other forums about turning the barrels on the P7100 to get more fuel. This is ridiculous.. Basically the barrels can be rotated as a means of getting the spill ports of each barrel all in the same spot. Meaning it ensures each injector fires the same amount of fuel to give a smooth running engine. They are calibrated from the factory to ensure this.Welllll, people have found that if you turn the barrels all the way clockwise, that you put the spill port farther over and then when you floor it, you end up even further along the port helix, giving more fuel more power...... Of course this means the idle spee…

I posted this on cumminsforum and got the usual helpfulness Anyhow I want to know what your data plate says on the side of the block.. Namely CPL, Pm Nox, Timing, MM3, and idle speed.

So, I've known for a while now, that I needed traction bars, but kept putting them off, due to time and cost...it finally came back and bit me in the ! Driving to the hunting lease the other day, I hit the highway, started my acceleration, and wasn't being super nice either, but no harder than I've been in the past. Truck bucked twice-first time was the axle wrap, second was the driveshaft coming off at the Tcase. In the two revolutions it made before the ujoint disintegrated at the rear pinion, it managed to take out half my exhaust, the DHD tailhousing, the shaft itself (custom one piece 5 in aluminum driveshaft). I knew I should have done the traction bars a while …

Hey guys, my daughter has had an "issue" with her transfer case. She has a '98 12v auto. The front driveshaft fell out hit the road and cracked both halves. Anyhow, I am looking for the least expensive way to repair it. All I need are the two case halves, but can't locate the front half. Either that or I could replace the whole thing but the core is not acceptable to a rebuilder so that is out. I have also read that her DLD could be replaced with a DHD and just swap a couple of parts and it is a bolt on. Anybody know of a place for parts or another t-case or another way to get this truck back on the road?

Truck in signature has a slow (add some fluid once a month) leak in OEM steering gear box? Appears to come from one of the lines off the top OR where the steering shaft goes in? Truck has 180K and OEM suspension. Replace or repair box or box, Power steering pump and lines, & while I'm @ it rebuild the vacuumed pump! what are some options for a new gear box & PS pump? What do I watch for if disconnecting PS lines from break master cylinder? Does the break master Cylinder receive driving pressure from sheeting gear box? Thanks Dave. P.S. The new drag link, steering stabilizer, & steering shock, & quater turn on the top adj bolt of the gear box all or part re…

I've been fighting quite a number of gremlins in this '97 3500 since the *** I got it..Today, it left me walking.. Starter, or something..It goes "click" when you hit the key. I didn't think it was a battery issue (even though they are in dire need of replacement), but I tried to jump-start it anyway.. no luck. Took a hammer and tapped on the starter case (old school method) to no avail..Solenoid definitely clicks ONCE, but no sign of starter spin at all.No hints of this thing planning to take a dump, leading up to this.. just BAM.. or "click."So now, it's sitting in my work parking lot.I'm going tomorrow morning to fiddle with it (as it's dark now) and will check…

Alright so I have never seen the actual visual effects of different static timing degrees on these trucks to any accurate degree other than word of mouth so I did it myself at 0* then at 20*. I thought I was at 2* ATDC a year or 2 ago but apparently I was wrong. All of this will go to show that accurate info can make a world of difference. The 0* video is done and the 20* one will be done in a few hours. The 0* one tells a lot of the story though. Though now I question how CR's can run at timings after TDC. As the video shows, it gets better as it warms up, so I'm thinking CR's retard more as the engine temp allows, but still, how can they pull off 5*ATDC! One thing…

So I've been driving my 'new'sed 97 DRW for a few months now..12V, 135k, auto, 4.10, 235/85-16s, BHAF, #0 plate, 4" exhaust...Best tank MPG: 13.1Avg tank MPG: 12.3-12.7Talked to a buddy of mine that has near exact truck and mods. He has a #10 plate though.. he averages about 17-18mpg and has very similar driving habits and city/highway mix as I do..Thinking maybe I need to get a few things checked out:timingfuel plate positioningvalve lashThoughts? (ISX)

I'll probably run the oem turbo on my '98 for now. Along with ISX'S pump mods. Should be in the 350 hp range. Main thing for now is to use what ever is still serviceable, get it running.But, somehow lastnight, got pulled into a advertisement for Phat shaft's products. They have many levels of turbo for the 12v... supporting 350 hp and up to 2000. The turbo they recommend for 'near exact' replacement, "perfect for towing" except it needs the HX40 downpipe, is said to be perfect for towing, DECREASES EGT... but will have a slight lag. (not a problem here) 62/70 14 cm housing.Next one 'up' is supposed …

Alright this first turbo is an HX35 from a 95-98 12V. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/854472/fullsize/hx35-hybrid-kit-(12).jpg%20alt= And this turbo is an HX35 from a 99-02' 24V, so who can figure out the difference?

Hello,I have a 1995 2500 4x4, at the moment it has a tick over 123k. I bought the truck about 3 years ago from a German guy, and i know it was well maintained. It is stock other than a Bully Dog CAI, a 4" Diamond Eye turbo back, and a boost elbow. I also have an Amsoil Double By-pass. Thats it for the motor. I have the oil analyzed, and the last one was all well within tolerance. I try to take the best care of this thing I can, as I hope this will be my long term truck. But I am having a problem with oil loss. It does leak a little bit from the turbo oil return, where the oil goes back to the pan, (a little insight on how to repair this would be great too!) bit thats it f…

:spend:Got home last night with my '98 (I was misinformed, I originally thought it was a '97) This truck was originally sold new in Littleton Colo, and spent most of it's life in Colorado, and ended up in the Panhandle of Nebraska. Salt wasn't much of a factor on this truck. Doesnt really matter to me though, cause it was rolled on it's side. I got it mainly for donating everything I need (driveline wise) into my '94This truck came with the snow plow option and tow package. It's got the Dana 80 rear with limited slip 3.54's DHD Tc, It was a nv4500 (now missing). Extended cab, long box. I got a good c…

Alright, just looking for some advice or maybe some direction towards a video or thread that I can't find on pulling the engine. I have all the necessary tools since on base here they have a hobby shop with lifts and cherry pickers and blah blah blah. Basically I have an oil leak or maybe 2 :banghead: lol. The guy who fixed the KDP back in the day when my dad owned the truck didn't do a good job with the gasket when he put the gear case cover back on, and I'm thinking my crank seal is leaking as well. And my oil pan gasket is going, which to my understanding you basically have to pull the engine due to that snug crossmember in the way. Can anyone help me out that has …