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About dirtywhiteboy40219

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    Ludwigshafen, Germany

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  1. Hi everyone, I’m about to pull the trigger on a 2006 dually. One the dually fenders is loose and has started to rub the paint off of the sheet metal. My question is, are they bolted on with regular bolts or are the fasteners formed into the fiberglass? I’m just trying to figure out the cure to replace the loose fasteners. Thanks for any help!
  2. Explanations like this are why this forum is the best.👍🏻💪🏻 It works “ok” if I really granny shift it. Only then. It will go into third on a downshift IF I’m going at a speed where I’d go to second. Now I’m curious if I made a mistake opting for the 13” clutch. You nailed that one! Its frustrating because it NEVER had a problem with downshifting before. Sooooo, with this new found knowledge, replacing the transmission isn’t gonna fix this either? Fourth gear makes a lot of high pitched noise now too. All this because of the flywheel?😔 wish I’da known this going in. Thanks for your response. I’m running Amsoil 75-90 MTL. I’ve been using this since I’ve owned the truck. Amsoil ships to me where I’m at. The truck has around 285k miles. It was used to Schlepp a small backhoe around the German Alps for 15 years. I don’t think it ever saw fifth gear use. These little faux paus make me miss the old NP435’s. How hard is it to rebuild an NV? Do you need any special tools? Are brass synchros a better choice for normal driving/ light towing? It rakes hard on up and downshifts if I drive it “normal”. 1800 rpm upshifts sound like shrapnel. But it will go in. Could that be a throwout bearing? Thank you all again for your help!
  3. I might try the silicone trick. Thanks! then again I might sell the truck... Transmission.😡 I found an 82,000 original mile 12v NV4500 Dually.
  4. I have the Retro Shop projectors, as per the reviews from this website. They produce AWESOME light output. So good that I don’t need fog lights. Keep in mind, there are ZERO reflectors marking the lanes in Germany. There was a downside. Mine were waaaaaaaaay far out of adjustment. With them adjusted all the way up, the light was only going 30-40 feet in front of my truck. I had to find/buy longer Bolts and put 1/2” spacers on the bottom mounts to get them where they were effective. But that broke the tabs. Now they work great, but I have a huge gap between the housing and the fender. The guy I ordered them from said this is normal. I have a set of Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors on the front, and regular old Wagner shoes on the back. Replacing the rubber lines all around made a big difference. My ratty old truck stops really good for what it is. My trailer brakes work pretty good too... I only tow about 6-7k occasionally.
  5. Hello from Germany.... I just installed a Valair single organic disc in my truck. The previous clutch went bad due to the input shaft seal leaking, y’all know the rest. I did replace the seal. I got the whole clutch kit from Valair, 13“ flywheel, pilot, throwout, etc. Even went the extra mile and got the ARP flywheel bolts. The trans used to rake a little on the 2-3 shift if I was beating on it. Gotta show those pesky German VW drivers what the ‘ole dually can do from time to time. After the clutch install, I can’t do a 4-3 downshift, at least like I used to. If I slow down to where I normally would shift to second, it will go into third. I never had any downshift issues before.🤷🏼‍♂️ I don’t believe it has anything to do with the clutch. The only other thing that changed is the noise when lugging it. It used to make the rattle in third, now it rattles in fourth. The pedal feels good, has a good, smooth engagement. Up shifts for all gears is just like before. First and reverse work perfectly. Fifth gear engagement is also great. Y’all have any ideas why I can no longer do a 4-3 downshift? thanks for any and all help!
  6. BMW E46 convertible seats also have integrated seat belts. I’ve been considering this for a bit. I know the seats are pretty comfy, and come in similar colors as Dodge. I have not tried to measure anything. Plus they are pretty common in Germany. Something different!
  7. Vehicle: Country Category: 2nd Generation Date Added: 2018-09-20 Country
  8. Hello again, I am in the military and have access to the Aafes stores.... But they don't really cater to car enthusiasts, and really dont offer anything for diesel enthusiasts. That was a big reason I went ahead and switched to the Amsoil. They only have/had Pennzoil 15w40.... IF they had it all. Not real sure, but I have never heard truck owners say they run Pennzoil in their truck. The other problem with petroleum oil is the shipping. Synthetic has no problems going through the mail. But, I may look around again. They sell rotella here, but last I looked it is 18 Euros a liter. Thats about $25. It holds 13 quarts with the d-b-p filter... ouch!!! You don't know the relief to hear the haze is normal. Gonna loosen up the pin on the timing gear, and try to get the valves adjusted right and fix/replace the hose on the oil return. If the truck in your avatar is yours, its pretty similar to mine. So i feel compelled to say... Nice truck Man!! Thanks again.
  9. Hello, Yes, I did do an oil swap. The previous owner ran a cheap (lemme say that a quart of oil here "cheap stuff" with the currency conversion is about $12 per quart ) oil, so I did switch to Amsoil with the Double by-pass. I use the 15w 40 for the older diesels. I religiously let it run for a few minutes EVERY time i cold start it, even if its 90 outside. I have added a few quarts of Lucas over the miles too. I don't know how the previous owner drove it, he said between 65 and 75 on the autobahn. I rarely exceed 70, had it going 90ish once to run down an a-hole in a Peugeot. I really dont drive it hard. Sometimes at a stoplight I flog it a bit, but thats only for a few seconds. There are new hoses or anything.... I dont think the thermostat has ever been out. The only hoses i know were changed were the inlet hose to the heater core where it comes from the pre heater. The guy i bought the truck from bought it in 1996. Dont know how many miles were there when he bought it, the day i picked it up it had 78,267. As far as the haze from the motor, it is steady.... does that mean anything??? Do I really need to beat on it??? - - - Updated - - - I am gonna do somethin with the drain tube. It really doesnt leak TOO bad, but it is moist and does bother me. I don't have any gauges, as 95% of funds invested were tryin to make it steer right (not really well spent i might add!!!) Do you have an opinion on whats good and whats just expensive?? The only new symptom of the power loss is that it seems a little louder... valvetrain. gonna get the stethoscope out tomorrow to verify. I need to redo that i am pretty sure. Maybe i be just a bit paranoid. I can't thank Ya'll enough for takin the time.
  10. Thanks again ya'll...I don't really know what led to this oil loss. I did the front seal 3 times because it was leaking, third time being the charm. At that point it was leaving oil spots on the ground, but it isnt anymore. The drain tube leaks but only minimally, no spots on the ground just kinda runs down the side of the pan. Yes there is oil on the bottom of my truck, but it starts from the vent tube. I have checked the VP at least a dozen times hoping that was it.:(I do have one issue that occurred twice. While driving it home from picking up a couch, it lost a LOT of power.... would barely go 55 on flat ground. It was dark out, got the flashlight and looked at everything I could.... found nothin. Got up the next morning and looked again, the vacuum line from the AFC (I think) had come undone. That was a nice relief as i thought the turbo was wasted. It did it again about 2 mos. later... at a drag race where it ran a blistering 22.?? quarter mile. :ashamed:I ran the hose under the wiring harness and havent had any issues since. I just drove it to Spain and back..... 3400 miles round trip. I ran 1800-1900 rpm the whole way. Got 22 mpg with 33" mud tires. Its just that d@#N oil loss!!!!Thanks again :thumb1:
  11. Thanks for the fast reply...The dipstick tube doesnt push out on its own, i get the haze when i pull the stick out. The oil fill doesnt blow out either, it just kinda spins and stops. I cant say the original owner had a lot of cold starts, when i bought it, it had 78k. Since i have owned it, it is garage kept, plugged in (when it gets down to about 20 at night) and it also has the pre heater from Webasto. The German that owned it had this installed immediately after purchase, because in Germany it is like a felony to let your car idle for more than 30 seconds in front of your house. If you get angry neighbors, they will not hesitate to get you a visit from the Popo's. It is programmed to start about 40 mins before i leave in the morning. and i baby the h#@l out of it in the mornings or till op temp... where i continue to baby the h#@l out it. it is actually rather pampered!!!I have seen the post from Illflem on cummins forum. I only have one problem with that....I can't find any of the items to build the manometer here. I have had no luck finding a tee, have only found 3/4 clear tube, the .221 hole i could probably manage...anybody want to sell me one???? PLEAAASSEE???:pray:what are the other potential causes, anything that i can check? would a shoddy valve adjustment cause any of this? I think (maybe it is just wishful thinking) i saw something about poss vacuum lines? or vacuum pump?thanks again:thumb1:
  12. Hello,I have a 1995 2500 4x4, at the moment it has a tick over 123k. I bought the truck about 3 years ago from a German guy, and i know it was well maintained. It is stock other than a Bully Dog CAI, a 4" Diamond Eye turbo back, and a boost elbow. I also have an Amsoil Double By-pass. Thats it for the motor. I have the oil analyzed, and the last one was all well within tolerance. I try to take the best care of this thing I can, as I hope this will be my long term truck. But I am having a problem with oil loss. It does leak a little bit from the turbo oil return, where the oil goes back to the pan, (a little insight on how to repair this would be great too!) bit thats it for leaks. I have also done the KDP. I don't know what excessive blow-by looks like, as i have the only 12 valve around, nothin else to compare to. (Germans like gas trucks better.) It does have a haze that comes out of the vent tube and the oil fill and the dipstick tube. I just cant believe that with 123k, the rings are bad. I did (try to) adjust the valves about 5k ago, and now i am thinking i didnt do that 100%. I couldnt get the tab to go into the pump gear, so i did it the eyeball way. I lose about a quart every 1200 miles. The turbo has a tiny bit of side to side play, but 0 in-out. I figure the side to side play comes from not having oil pressure in the turbo.The truck runs good, but does seem to have lost a little bit of power going up hills. I am a decent mechanic, but diesel is still a bit foreign to me. I will have to do any and all work myself, as long as special tool purchase isn't more than gettin someone else to do it.I'll spare anymore run on sentences and hope that someone can get me going in the right direction. Please don't break my heart and tell me that its rings!!!!!Thanks to all.
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