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Stormin08

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    Lake Charles, LA

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  1. both of those options are BUDGET LINES.... that said, use the available info to make a parts decision. up to 2.5" is about max for correcting castor angles, over that and up to about 4" will need a lower arm at minimum. remember, with a correctly spaced wheel, the stock truck will handle a larger tire than just a cheap level. with a level and no arms, the axle pulls rearward and tightens the gap to the fender, it also moves left...thus causing some rubbing issues on the upper pass side control arms. essentially if you want a lift, save and get all necessary components...COILS, arms and adjustable track bar or third gen swap style going cheap here will make you upset after about 2 weeks, and the issues it brings will make you want to sell the truck
  2. retroshop.us http://shop.retroshop.us/default.asp look him up, jeremy is a good dude. i have known of him since 2008 ish.
  3. nice, i have had mine in LED for years, prior to the switch backs...i guess i need to swap now.
  4. Sport conversion, relay harness and a good bulb...thats about the only OTHER option aside from the retro's.
  5. i would say this is very close....way back when, i dyno'd my stock truck with a superchips tuner on kill (65hp), with a 285/70/17 it made 255/586 at Source Automotive
  6. i will be the first...you say HAS NOT UNLOCKED ONCE...does this mean that at speed in 4th, when you let off the throttle it is not unlocking ? then locking upon throttle input ? or just simpling saying it isnt hunting ? personally, i think these trucks are very touchy in this area...but it IS supposed to unlock/lock with lack of throttle / then throttle input.
  7. if one takes the time to read what each setting changes does, it isnt hard at all...the end user views were mad to be very simple visually, and adjustments even easier. i only recall 2, maybe 3 trucks that for what ever reason...just didnt like talking to the quad. but like stated, it can also act a s very informative diagnostic tool, you can literally see sensor failing if you pay attention.
  8. so, go youtube PowerDrivenDiesel...they just recently anounced a vendor in Australia...possible that shipping maybe less coming from there. cannot remember the vendor name, but they address them by name. here it is.
  9. i understand someones desire to save cost, using lifetime warranty parts...and i agree on certain parts, but take the balljoints for example. i dont have the time to swap out bad joints for warranty...i have run the synergy balljoints for 100k miles and no issues...this is a lifted front end, with a 34" tire. i am certain overall height may add some wear, but the wheel backspacing is what kills the BJ and steering. i think the scrub line of a tall tire, narrow or tucked wheel helps keep things happy.
  10. i saw this feed yesterday. someone needs to make a video for tuning with the quad.... the dyno cost probably wouldnt be worth it overall, but it would be nice to see some actual changes logged vs just talk.
  11. the ecm doesnt care what trans you have...
  12. BIG NOTE HERE.... certain parts are easier to replace if need by the parts house...i remember calling a couple to see what was more readily available...then i cut the other side. that way if i ever needed to replace the part on the road, it would fit. some have had to trim the crossover (pre-00) and others the drag link ( stock height usually), some have had to do nothing.
  13. possibly an ohm meter, and a helping hand to wiggle the harness....may take a while to locate, but doable
  14. you have to trim to length and weld the ends on...possibly bend the crossover to clear the pumpkin.
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