2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

We are getting close on what the problem is not - anyway we will have to replace the bent push rods on #6 in a 94 and really dont want to pull the motor forward to do it- Your input would be great. Thinking about drilling holes above so they have room to come out but that opens up new potential problems. Anybody have good experience with this one?

My '97's TPS reading (per SG2) at idle displays ~27. I don't know what this number represents, or if it's even correct.. Ideas?Thanks,

Ok, so I got rid of my 24V with headaches, and apparently picked up a 12V with someone else's headaches.. So, out of the frying pan, into the fire.I've been working out some kinks on this '97. I test drove it last friday, and from what I recall, it seemed to be fine.. Unless I didn't notice it (my fault for lack of due-diligence.)At any rate, the issue (for this thread) is the transmission.Story goes: 2 owners ago, dude bought a Jasper trans, installed it, killed it, warrantied it, killed that one, warrantied it, killed it, then Jasper said "this is your last one."so he pulled the 5spd from this '97, installed the Jasper auto in it, and stuck the 5 speed into the truc…

hi guys im new here, little bit bout myself, im 41 live in ky and just retired from the army, 20years 3 months, 6 days, wont talk about my mos, but i did 3 tours in iraq/afghanistan, married and have 3 daughters. and 1 1999 dodge 2500 with a v10.now the other day i bought a 1997 3500 with a 5.9 cummins 12 valve in it, its an automatic 2wd, to where mine is an automatic 4x4, im really wanting to put this motor in my 2500 due to the fact my dodge is like damn near new condition, and the fact it hasnt been driven in the last 11 years, very much. and best of all its paid for lol. it has a 5 inch suspension lift, 3 inch body lift, riding on 38 ssr's. so basically i really lik…

Back story:I'm looking at this 97 3500 4x4. It's got a few issues I'm concerned about; a couple being drivetrain-related.The truck was apparently originally a 5 speed truck, and somewhere down the line, was converted to auto. when the current owner got the truck, the trans went out shortly after that. He had it rebuilt with:(parts I know)Suncoast 3-disc TCperformance VBperformance front pumpnew servosnew TV cable(parts I don't know about)"red" clutchesSolid kevlar bandsSaid he's got like $3k in the trans rebuild, and another $1k is having the place in Wesminster, MD do some rewiring, connect vacuum lines, etc., that the owner before-hand did not do properly. The issue…

I am investigating a gearing change for my 96 12v automatic (2500) which has a dana 70 (4.10). I have an opportunity to pickup a dana 80 that has the 3.54 ratio I would like, so I does anyone know if that will bolt in as a replacement rear end or are there other issues that I would need to address?

There may be existing threads on this subject, but when I had my engine rebuilt, I was unfortunately convinced to go with Marine pistons. Now, more than a year later, I am still not happy with the way the engine runs (I have been through a lot sorting out mistakes that were made, too numerous to go into). In any case, the rougher idle, lower fuel economy and higher egt are all negatives. As I understand it, marine pistons require marine injectors. My question is, short of pulling the engine, yanking the pistons and going back to stock, are there any options to using a more efficient and smoother running injector? Thank you

Since I have recently installed newly rebuilt injectors, I have about 1,000 miles on them, I have a fuel leak on the number 1,3 cylinders coming up from around the hold down nuts. #1 is very slight, but #3 is fairly significant. They have been leaking since install, I just hoped they would stop on their own.My question is, how do I stop the leak, and could the injector body itself be cracked? The truck runs very well. The truck has no starting issues, as would be from sucking air. I did use new washers.Thanks

Has anybody done this without taking off the gear cover? I put a new one in about 2.5 years ago when I did the KDP, but it has started leaking again, coating the front steering components and of course the drive way.ThanksRick

[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FFFFFF]98 12V, what are the professional tips & tricks to install ex manifold gaskets? My #6 cyl bolts MIA, blowen exaust out the top back on to the fire wall. I can see a gasket back there, thou it's tweeked a little. Have a set of new ones. Turbo studs don't look that appealing eather? YA Thanks ALL.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

1996 dodge 2500, 5.9, 4k gov springs (installed over a year ago), 75 hp over stock injectors, fuel plate, aftermarket air, 4" exhaust 315k miles. according to odometer still had at least 100miles of fuel left in tank, I stopped, shut down engine, went to restart after 5 minutes, no start, sounded like no fuel, tried again, no start, noticed foot pedal would not move, popped hood, attempted to move throttle linkage manually, moved only 1/2" inch (more like slack???) but still would not move more than 1/2" inch... any good suggestions would be apperciated, Dave

[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FEFEF4]Back from my sibatical. Took a road trip to Montana with a 3 horse trailer. Truck in sig, stock turbo & injectors. The truck had not made a peep till mid trip. In Wy. on most of those I-25 grades the pull would start with 20-30 psi boost and 1000*-1100* EGT and 1-2 min into it, the turbo would start this high pitch whine. I would come off the fuel and stay close to 20 boost & this would decrease the whine a little? I also have a nice exaust manifold leak, tick.. Nothing like a good road trip to work out/ uncover all the gremlins.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

Does anyone know why my truck doesn't start so smooth as other 12 valves ive seen or heard? I've seen countless videos of 12v's that start instantly and mine takes a little bit. Most of the time I give it a quick nudge in the throttle but I'd like to figure out why it starts different. My uncle has a 92 and it starts instantaneously and it always struck me odd that mine takes a little bit of cranking. Does anyone know the cause of this or am I alone?

ive got a 94 with 263000 on it and it started to miss a while back. the temp was about 30 degrees cooler on the exhaust manifold on the 6th cylinder so i thought it was injectos so i replaced all of them and got 50 horse while i was at it. well not it has gotten worse and i assume thats because the bigger injectors make it more noticable. im not sure what else it could be. ive cracked the lines at the pump and they all drop the same in idle when i do. its worse at idle around 1100 and you can tell the lose of power when you drive down the road. plus it just sounds horrible and has a lope to it. any ideas on how to fix thos or even where to start. ive changed the fuel filt…

This has been on my mind ever since AH64 mentioned it. He said the P7100 can do 18,855psi and the vp44 can do 17,400psi and the cp3 can do 23,106psi. I can't find the chart he just posted somewhere but it showed that the rail pressure in the CR engines is highly variable. Seemed to go up with RPM and load, which I think the same happens with the ppump and vp trucks and I don't see those pressures being that different. I mean 23,000 is 5,000 more but can that much have that big of difference? And when it is not at peak load/rpm, is it possible that the pressures of all 3 trucks could be the same? This makes me think how emissions is accomplished. I have heard a lot …

well i finally got my truck running and inspected.......MAN I MISSED DRIVING A CUMMINS!!!!!!:hyper:so for the first trip i took it on a 120 mile round trip to my girlfriends college. It ran pretty good up and back but i did have one small hick-up. i was pulling into a parking and lost throttle completely. so after a quick look the throttle linkage rod end nearest to the firewall had popped off. It looked to me though that whatever is inside the socket part of the rod end was still attached to the ball on the linkage bracket. Now after talking to my uncle he said that there was an "E" clip missing off it. but as far as i can tell from pure diesel powers website and diagram…

Had another question on something I can't seem to find on the search. The clear tube that comes down on the rear drivers side of the engine. It's about an inch in diameter. What is it and why is there a haze of smoke coming out of it?

Hey guys. I know my signature isn't filled out but I have a 96 12v and I was messing around with the pump and was very pleased with the power increase after just a few minor adjustments. I'm waiting to do more until I can get a new clutch. Well normally I dont like blowing smoke and my truck never really did(which is what I wanted) but we were going camping and I decided to turn the smoke screw in just to have some fun and then back it out the next day or whatever but as I was tightening it down it snapped flush. I've been running it like this for a month now but I can't find the new part anywhere or the dimensions of the screw. I think it's a 10 mm nut and it's a loc…

Wll I got to work on a 1994 Dodge Cummins... Need a valve lash job. Well I finally got a really good look at the P7100 Bosch Injection pump. That thing is a freaking monster. Total in the road for anything on the driver side of the engine. I was trying to even reach down to push the primer button on the lift pump and I just can't reach that thing.@ISX how in the hell do you make these things look so easy? :shrug:Like I found a oil leak from the injection pum its missing a nut on the block side and I'm not sure how in the hell to even get it back in there. Also what size of nut is it?

I finally got this done and wanted to make a link for it over here. Only thing ever stopping me was finding a bad injection line that I could bend around how I wanted. I didn't know if the air thing would work but it worked in my head and sure enough it worked in practice So here it is over on Tom's site. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=670