2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain

this is a problem i just cant seem to figure out.my temp gauge in my truck never worked. so first place i went was the thermostat. i replaced the the other day and thought i had it but unfortunatly i didnt.1- when i removed the old thermostat it had a small rubber gasket on top of it, and then the big doughnut rubber seal that goes against the back of the t stat and through the lifting hook. the NEW t stat looks TOTALLY different then the old one, which i was told is not a big deal. but it didnt come with that first small rubber seal. i would assume that the thermostat just sits flat in the housing with no small rubber ring, and then the doughnut goes behind it???2- woul…

I am new to the site so I hope this is posted in the right section. I recently installed my valair clutch and after putting everything back together I noticed the 4WD light is on when truck is in 2WD and opposite when in 4WD light is off? 2H (light on) 4H (light off) N (light on) 4L (light off) complete opposite. I didnt disconnect the sensor at the CAD or vac lines anywhere besides at the connector on top of the t case and that went back on the way it came off. Also when the truck is in 2H I should be able to spin the front shaft by hand and I cannot unless the front tires are off the ground which means the CAD is locked and explains the light being on. Now when I shift …

need to quiet down the 4 inch mbpr i have the muffler but the police that stopped me the other day thought it was to loud let me go nice guy and the nieghbors are getting cranky looking at donaldson also the fte resonator any thoughts?

Just learned something new on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L V8 Gasser). I've always had a weird shift pattern where the trans would kick out of 4th and into 3rd hold for a long time and then shift up if you let the throttle out to near idle. Finally got off my rear and desided to look into this weird issue. So I started with the kickdown linkage. When I read up on the linkage adjustment it sohlud move together. I figure I better check the lever on the transmission. Guess what I found a spring hanging in the hole of the arm and the lever wasn't returning all the way back because said spring wasn't hooked up. :duh:So Hooked up the spring and re-adjusted the cable and shift …

Well, truck in sig. has an occational won't start moment. i.e. when I turn key to start it clicks once and quits. I repeat key turn a coulpe of times and it starts. I put 2 new 1000 cold cranking amp batteries in 2months ago with clean cable clamps. Volt meter reads 12.58 engine off and 13.67 to .75 at idle. on both batteries. I believe the starter is stock. Truck has 165k. Do I take the starter off to test OR new starter, starter cylinoid? Other options? Thanks Dave.

Hey guys, I just replaced the chain in my daughters' t-case. It was grinding and the chain was real sloppy. I got it back together and it still grinds. When it is put into 4wd high or low the transfer case grinds and does not engage the front drive shaft. It seems as the fork is not moving enough. After looking at diagrams better I do not recall seeing any shift fork pads (#44 in this picture: http://www.tbtrans.com/id22.htm#np231). Could that be what is going on?

This past Saturday I was planning on taking my injection pump off so that I could replace my tappet cover gasket since its leaking pretty good, but I could not get the injection pump gear to budge. I took the nut and washer off the shaft then put my puller on it and all I managed to do was bend the steel plate part of the puller and one of the 10.9 hardness bolts, the gear did not move at all. So I am at a loss of what to do next, did I miss something? or is my gear just really stuck on there?

let me start with this:mad: and this:banghead:...................ok now moving oni had problems with my truck somehow letting a tiny bit of air in....so i posted a thread before and all fingers pointed to the teflon tape i used on the fittings of the draw straw.so....i purchased myself a can of permatex prepping solution, and a tube of the high temp thread sealant. I sealed all the treads at the draw straw, and the one fitting at the pre filter. I allowed it 72 hours to dry and fired it, and it ran fine. I shut it down after 3 mins of running and started it back up 2 minutes later, same thing fired then chugged like it was missing for about 5 seconds. Today i came home an…

Alright I got shims from work using their punch die set thing and did some other things like put in new copper washers and banjo bolt washers on everything. Upped the pop pressure from 220 to 280 (stock is 260). Well now it runs like crap. It just sits there and chugs. I have good fuel pressure and no fuel leaks. So the real question is, do I actually need holes in those shims? I'm thinking the fuel is getting past the edges of the shims and allowing it to run, barely, but don't know if it works like that or not. --- Update to the previous post... A video to entertain the masses. Think I might go ahead and take the shims out and see what happens. I didn'…

i have a 1998 12v automatic and it stalls out when you come to a stop or go to back up stays running in neutral or when transmission is still cold

so i have new fuel lines in my truck. ive been starting it and letting it run for a little while each week. i cant drive it as the bed is off and it needs inspection. the other day i started the truck after the wait to start light it ran fine for about 5 seconds and then chopped almost like it was missing for about 5 seconds.it sat for about a week and a half after that and i started it again, only to find it had lost prime and needed to be re primed. so i primed it and fired it and it ran fine.today i went out started it 2 times no problems. each time it ran for about 2 minutes then sat for about a half hour. i went to start i a third time, and it idled good for 5 second…

I advanced timing to 15.5 {i thought}about 4 months ago but noticed lately when I bog it i get grey smoke and not black smoke. im not trying for smoke but when i first noticed it i thought it was because of 40* weather. today was 60-70 and i purposely layed into it and gobs of grey. my boost still powerful 35 lbs and it might be running hotter egts than normal by say 100* . it still is peppy and gts up and goes. starts instantly on 30* days and cranks 1< second before starting. i think maybe from get-go i didnt set timing right but other than grey smoke it runs fine. any thoughts?

I got a pop tester finally and got around to testing all my injectors today. They say 260 bar (3771 PSI) on them but they all popped at 210 bar. These are the OEM 215 injectors. One of them was bad and did not "pop", it simply started opening up at around 200 bar and it would just stay open like a hose so that one really had no atomization going on. I will get video of it and a good one so everyone can see. I was actually hoping for a bad one so thank god I got one. I'll get video and stuff tomorrow.

so this is what i knowthe supply line from the tank comes up around the area of the fuel filter canister, it runs through an L bracket clamp down to the fuel heater prefilter, then out of the pre filter into the from of the LP through a molded hose and 90 degree brass fitting. from there it goes of the the LP straight up to the bleeder screw on top of the fuel canister.i just want to know FOR SURE that of im running new line from my tank to the engine it would connect from the tank to the pre filter and then i would leave the rest as stock. is that correct?also is there any actual replaceable filter in the pre filter assembly?thanks in advanceNICK

Well i got around to having a few friends come over today and help me pull the bed off my ole' dodge. I didnt get much done as far and fuel system is concerned, just popped the module out and kinda started figuring it all out. I didnt need to verify a few things?First- my draw straws the hard plastic type. My mosude has the supply and return coiling down to the bottom. Now from what i understand i completely remove the return because it will now just dump from the milled aluminum topper woth the holes in the bottom? And if i have the hard plastic type straw ( vulcan draw straw I ) i juwt need to fit it uo to meet the bottom of the strainer basket correct?Second- i would …

I video taped the whole process and sped it up 6x. I popped the hood and hit record so you are seeing start to finish with me getting tools and everything. Actual length is 21 minutes. If anyone wants to see it slowed down for some reason then let me know and I will edit out all the parts of me getting tools and upload it at regular speed. And no, injectors do not come out that easy, at all. I pull mine a lot and use high temp grease on them which really helps them out. A hot engine also helps. This is actually just fun to watch. [*]Taking bypass oil filter return off [*]Taking boost gauge line off [*]Dipstick bolt out [*]Intake horn bolts out [*]L…

I picked up a scrap P7100 a while back and just got around to destroying it to see how it all worked. One side done, need to flip it over and do the rack side, then widdle it a little more to see everything better, then work on the governor portion. I don't want it to be apart enough for it to not operate, as in parts falling out.. There is a cut away view of a P7100 floating around that everyone has seen but I want to see how it works as in operation. I will make a video of it all and show how everything works together. The pump side is pretty straight forward, it's the governor side I really want to see in operation. The theory of the governor is simplistic as wel…

Hi guys, I'm not having much luck finding info on this particular swap. I'm repowering my 98 3500 from a 360 gas to a 95 12 valve and I'm wondering if anyone else has any insight on the swap as far as wiring. I have the 95 engine harness with the ecm and I also have the headlight to dash harness for the 95 diesel which of course doesn't plug into the 98 dash harness. Would it be possible to wire the diesel ecm and engine harness into the 98 gas headlight to dash harness? What about swapping the connector from the 98 gas headlight to dash harness to the 95 diesel headlight to dash harness? Any ideas might help and would be much appreciated.

so i just reveiced my fuel line and fittings from vulcan performance. I upgraded the draw straw as i figured i might as well since the tank will be out, and the connections on the old one are porbably rusty.well long story short, i got to talking to one of my friends who has 2 cummins trucks (a 24v and a 12v) and he told me that his personal experience WITH the draw straw in both his trucks he complains of loosing fuel pressure when taking off and when stopping with about 1/4 tank.NOW my question is, vulcan performance included instructions with my draw straw kit (yes i read instructions:lol:)they show pictures of drilling holes in 2 DIFFERENT kinds of fuel modules. im g…

There was a post about this and I wanted to really dive into it and see everyones opinions and stuff on the issue. So it is 0F out and you go out to your truck and fire it up. From the way most sound at 0F, you will surely wait 30 seconds before doing anything else. But after that, then what is best to do? Here is my theory. When you start the engine, the first thing to get warm is the piston. It is aluminum and in direct contact with the explosion above it. The next thing would be the exhaust valve though it's composition would resist it. Then I think the rest would be relatively uniform. The thing I see here is that the piston would be hot and therefore expand.…