Ok, so I bought this truck a few months ago. It was about 4 hours away so I had it shipped home after I went and looked at it. I got a great deal on it. The transmission was completely gone so I ordered a Firepunk Street/Strip trans. It also ended up having a burnt valve which was unexpected. After comparing pricing with machine work and/or just purchasing a new a head I went with a new loaded head from Promaxx. I swapped out the stock valve springs for Hamilton 103lb vavle springs and used ARP Head studs in place of the factory head bolts. Everything is good there.

So now after the transmission, head, starter and wheel bearing were all replaced I'm having an issue with engine error codes. I've got them listed below. I doubt all of these are actually bad but I definetly have an issue to address and probably a sensor or two to replace. Any ideas guys?

 

Codes

P0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor signal

P0237 - MAP Sensor voltage too low

P0122 - APPS Sensor Signal voltage too low

P0118 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor voltage too high

P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor voltage too high

P0382 - Intake Air Heater Relay #2 control circuit

We are going to take a peek at the wiring tonight. Me and a couple of buddies

Check the junction above the drivers front tire.  All the wires to the rear of the truck connect there. I have seen that junction get corroded and cause issues like the speedo.

Ok, so we cleaned the plugs on the transmission, the plug for the speed sensor on the rear end and the 3 plugs at the junction by the driver side door. While I was picking up decking the converter started locking and unlocking really fast. It did it consistently. After we did what we did last night cleaning the plugs its not doing it anymore. I got on the highway this morning coming to work and it locked up hard like it should. My comp box started working again too which I don't understand. But I'm ok with it haha

Update for whoever is wondering haha. I had a tail light wiring issue. I fixed that and it seems to have made somewhat of a difference as far as the lockup issue. It hasn't done it since and thats been about a week. I also ordered a Timbo APPS and picked up a new camshaft sensor so we will see if that helps with my check engine light issue.

Do one at a time and test drive so you know who your culprit is.

Ok, so we cleaned the plugs on the transmission, the plug for the speed sensor on the rear end and the 3 plugs at the junction by the driver side door. While I was picking up decking the converter started locking and unlocking really fast. It did it consistently. After we did what we did last night cleaning the plugs its not doing it anymore. I got on the highway this morning coming to work and it locked up hard like it should. My comp box started working again too which I don't understand. But I'm ok with it haha

 

Just out of safety I would still test the alternator for AC noise levels. The fact it capable of lock/unlock issue bothers me and rather error to the side of safety knowing the alternator is working properly. Measure the AC voltage at the BATT post of the alternator and NEG battery post. A good alternator is 0.01 to 0.02. Marginal is 0.05. Failed is 0.1 and higher.

I tried to get the guy who pulled the codes to clear them for me to see what happens but he said he wasn't allowed. I'll find someone today to clear them and then I'll recheck in a day or two. I'll keep the topic updated. I appreciate the quick response guys.

The thing to do (If you cant afford a nice code reader) is get one off ebay. I know there are better. But when you get one as a gift from someone who things that they are helping its kind of hard to hurt their feelings. It should clear them and as said before if they come back then there is an issue.