im getting ready to rebuild a 01.5 ho motor never done this before. Planning to o-ring it, bigger studs, diff. cam, bigger injectors, heavier valve springs, and twins. Any advice, parts to go towards or stay away from.. any help or info i can get would be awsome, would like to hit 550- 600 hp

First off is what do you plan to do with the power? Need to know this before throwing out any info. Why does it need to be rebuilt, whats wrong with it currently?

just street pretty much ocasional towing tore it apart #4 cyclinder and a broken ring and #6 pistion worn hard

Best is to use original Cummins internal parts. As far as cam goes a lot of people are running the cummins marine cam which is probably what most aftermarket cams are designed after as far as lift and duration, stay away from regrinds go with a new cam. A cam will not give anymore power persay but lets more airflow through the engine. Best if done with head porting. You can run different size pistons in the B cummins so you only need to bore the affected holes as these engines are internally balanced. Or you can overbore and sleeve back to stock bore diameter.

im getting ready to rebuild a 01.5 ho motor never done this before. Planning to o-ring it, bigger studs, diff. cam, bigger injectors, heavier valve springs, and twins. Any advice, parts to go towards or stay away from.. any help or info i can get would be awsome, would like to hit 550- 600 hp

Now also you got to remember everything down stream has to be built up to to hold this kind of power... (Trans, driveline, etc)

Yep Mike makes a good point. But if it is just for street play all you need are some good tranny upgrades. If you are going to the track or pulls You would probably need to upgrade the dana 70 to a dana 80. but other than that the rest of it holds up pretty good. I highly recommend ladder bars or traction bars as a must. It helps get the power to the ground just as much as a good torque converter and saves lots of other driveline parts from damage as well.

I personally use permatech Hi Tack sealer where its required on mating surfaces as they don't ever harden, so in the odd chance some falls off into the oil pan it shouldn't clog an oil jet.Any other opinions on that? Whenever I take off a stamped steel cover Ill take a file to the mounting surface to check for and high spots. A small body hammer with a dolly works great.

The way these engines are build there is very little use for any gasket sealer. Most of it is a O-ring and rubber gasket like the valve cover. As for plugging with a chunk of silcone or something. You would plug the inlet of the oil plug screen before you plug a cooling jet. There is a oil filter in between all this.

The only time these cummins ever had an issue of plugging a cooling jet was from low quality oil filters and the glue they used to hold them together with inside would come loose and find its way to the piston cooling nozzle and cause piston meltdowns. If I am not mistaken there was a TSB many years ago about this problem.

The only time these cummins ever had an issue of plugging a cooling jet was from low quality oil filters and the glue they used to hold them together with inside would come loose and find its way to the piston cooling nozzle and cause piston meltdowns. If I am not mistaken there was a TSB many years ago about this problem.

Ahh this one... http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/09-004-01.htm