So I've started to notice that in the morning my truck has hard a little harder time starting. By harder time I mean, just cranks a little longer then it typically would. We haven't had to cold of mornings (high 30's low 40's) but it used to be 1 second or less and it'd fire up. This morning it was 3-4 seconds and then she fired up. I did just change some things with the Smarty so the battery was on for a little longer then normal before actually cranking but this isn't the first time it's happened. My driveway is at an incline so engine bay is slightly higher then the tank. So I'm wondering...

 

Could it be batteries? Before starts my needle is juuuuust above the lowest marker on the battery gauge

Intake heater no working properly? I have noticed more white smoke then usual on cold start ups

Fuel leak? Haven't seen any spots in the driveway, and the system definitely primes once the key gets to 'ON' typically see 5-10psi needle jump

 

So what do ya guys got?!

 

 

Alright guys looks like this problem could be showing up again. 

 

From the time of my last update until this morning the truck has started right up every time. Didn't matter how it was parked or how long. This morning I come out to start and it did a slight hiccup and little longer crank then normal before starting. Could've just been coincidence but it was pretty similar to the way things were before. 

 

So if this problem is back I'm really at a loss. What could it be? A leak doesn't seem to make sense anymore since its ran fine for as long as it has. Could I be getting to much fuel on start up? Bad relay on lift pump side of things? Vp going bad? Injectors? What do you guys think? 

Mine will do the same just out of the blue every once in a while. I just dont pay it any attention it happens so little. I know thats not what you want to hear, it is just how I choose deal with it.   

Hmmm, hopefully that's what's going on here. I wouldn't mind if it happened here and there. Just don't want to go back to chasing a leak again. I'm really starting to run out of easy fixes.

Any error codes?

 

The only thing I can think of right now would be a lack of RPM sense from a failing sensor maybe? Hence the hiccup.

I'll check the obd next start up but not cel was on. Rpm sensor would explain the sporadic-ness of this if the sensors slowly failing. But it doesn't make sense that it only happens on the first start up of the day

I'm not saying I think anything is wrong, but in my experience with electronics on vehicles, you never can tell how they will act when going bad. I know it's hard, but I personally would force myself to just wait, give it a few more opportunities to act up before worrying or trying too hard to find a problem that might not be there. Good luck! I hope it's nothing :-)

Well did it again and this time was a little worse then before. I took a video and I think I may be getting too much pressure on start up. Let me know what you guys think.

 

 

 

Forgot to add, checked the obd and didn't have any codes.

I think mine sees somewhere between 7 and 10 psi when cranking. It has been a while since its done it so thats the best I remember. Disconnect the lift pump and see if it busts right off. That would confirm to much pressure for starting.

I'll have to check that out tomorrow morning since this only happens on the first start up of the day, or after it's sat for quite a while. I think I may also have things wired weird the more I think of it. Going to have to check that out.

Is it better to just pull the inline fuse that's on the FASS harness or pull the fuse out of the fuse box by the drivers side battery?

 

Also, looking back through some of my past videos I've posted on this, it seems that when it has the extended cranking, fuel pressure is always above 10psi. When firing right up it could be possible that the lift pump isn't pumping but why would it not happen for so long then happen all of the sudden?

 

It also looks like my fuel pressure was 18ish and now I'm right around 16-17 not sure why, but I'm half tempted to open up the return line and check that spring and ball. What else could cause that in such a short time? Could filters get dirty that quick (not even 5k on them)?

 

Was poking around under the hood and remembered when I installed the FASS I stuffed the old wire harness for the in tank lift pump just up under the fender. It had a relay and inline fuse and ran down to the big plug up under the drivers side front wheel well. Should that be plugged into anything? Is it effecting anything still being plugged in?

 

Sorry for all the questions but this is really starting to get confusing.

Just pull the fuse in the Fass harness or unplug the the lead from the ECM. Either one will shut the pump down. When I removed my in tank pump I pulled the old harness that connected it to the ECM. Your old one should not be connected to anything anymore. 

I assume you pulled it from the plug that's right by the where the stock carter lift pump would be right? That's where I pulled out the old harness and plugged in the new FASS harness, but the old harness was getting power from the forward circuit breaker box but like I mentioned, it goes right down to that huge connector under the fender well. Does that sound right? The only way I could completely disconnect it would be to clip the wires.

If you disconnect the oe harness that ran the oe carter pump from the fass harness the pump will not run. Unless the fass system does not use the oe harness for a relay trigger. Without the trigger the relay will not engage power to the pump. 

 

My AD harness has a fuse in it and I am assuming the fass harness has one also. Pull the fuse and the pump will not run. This would be the easiest way on my truck.

 

You can do either one and the pump will not run. There is no need to cut or disconnect the power supply.

I guess I was more curious what to do with the old harness? If it's just supposed to be stuffed aside then that's fine. That's how it is now, and the truck runs fine, but wondering if it still being plugged into the system is causing some weird stuff to happen. 

 

Ill grab pics, maybe that'll clear it up.

I thought we were trying to disconnect the fass to see if you were over pressuring the pump. Sorry about that.

 

My old in tank harness is hanging on a wall in my shop. It came out when I ditched the in tank pump. There is nothing it is needed for anymore. IIRC it is very similar to my AD harness, functioned the same any way anyway. Any way after the AD install the harness does nothing, it has nothing to control anymore. Once I disconnected it from the pump and the oe harness the only other wire I remember was for power. I dont remember where it was connected, I just took it loose.

No big deal. I pulled the plug that went directly into the fass today and tried starting and same thing as yesterday. Plugged it back in right after start and fuel pressure was back up to 16ish. I ended up stretching the sprig a bit and now pressures up to 20ish which is a little high so I'll take it out again and re-adjust. I think the ball in there was slightly scored so it might've effected it a bit.

 

The plugs I was referring too were these.

 

This ones the relay for the fass harness

 

Heres the relay and plug for the stock setup.

 

the other end is connected to this plug

 

and then from there I'm not sure where it goes. Does this look normal?

I dont remember mine going to any other factory connector other than the lift pump harness. How is it connected into that plug? Every thing in that connector looks old. The only new wires are at the top of the picture and I assume they are for the FASS,

OK sorry let me try and explain more clearly.

 

The FASS harness that's shown here

 

Is connected down by the old carter pump location into two prong harness in that area. I assume to the ECM?

The other end of the FASS harness goes straight back to the lift pump itself. Other then power, it's not attached to anything else.

 

This picture

 

is what I think was connected into the old stock lift pump harness down by the old carter location (currently being used by the FASS harness now) but it's been a while since the install I can't entirely remember if that's the case or not.

 

The other end goes into the wire plug shown here

 

and I'm pretty sure it's the set of wires on the bottom there that are sticking out in a completely different direction, but whatever wires they are, they're definitely connected into this plug.

 

The only picture I did not get was the last one. All the others a pretty much what I dealt with when replacing my in tank pump with the AD. I never had to deal with a connector like you show in the last picture. My in tank pump was connected to a power source to the relay, the oe harness for the lift pump connected to the relay also for the trigger and then a harness from the relay to the AD to supply power for it. 

 

I do see two wire looms in the pic. One seems to have on wire going to the connector and it looks factory. There is another that runs off perpendicular to the connector. I will have to take your word on them being connected. I dealt with nothing like that on mine. 

My in tank harness was the same as yours @notlimah. I just clipped the wire out of the plug behind the fender liner, capped it, sealed it and heat shrunk it. It is a dead wire in the harness as you have it unhooked now. I think Dodge used a couple different harnesses for their in-tank "fix". I just installed the same fass150 kit as ours on my uncles 01' he picked up a month ago. His retrofit harness for the in-tank pump did not go into the big plug behind the fender liner. It was a stand alone harness similar to the fass.