My WTS light when I first cycle the key every time is on for 5 seconds now that it is getting colder down into the 40's the light still only stays on for 5 seconds, used scan tool to manually activate both relays and both would come on, but when I turn the key on I can't here then click on for a cold start like the truck doesn't know it's cold and doesn't cycle them, replaced IAT sensor yesterday and still nothing, don't have a scan tool that I could check the temps before first start but I let it sit in the shop for 5 hours and let everything cool off and used scan tool and everything seemed to read correctly so what is my issue? Bad connection or relay or what I have been trying to get this solved for 2 months now and I'm getting so annoyed with it I want to sell the truck. If anyone has any idea what it is please tell me or any idea how to figure it out tell me. Or if you have any suggestions on connections to check tell me I just want it fixed so I don't have to worry about the cold starts being so rough on it. Thank you 

That first sentence is pretty long and confusing.  Can you tell us what your truck is?  Any mods?

 

You said that you used a scan tool to activate the grid heaters?  But then you said you don't have a scan tool?  Have you checked for codes?  Preferably with a code reader.  The only thing wrong, that you can see, is the WTS light doesn't stay illuminated as long as you think it should?  Any other symptoms?

Edited November 9, 20168 yr by Hawkez

What is your measured IAT temperature at the time you turn the ignition key on? This is critical to know. You might of just replaced a IAT sensor for nothing...

11 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

What is your measured IAT temperature at the time you turn the ignition key on? This is critical to know. You might of just replaced a IAT sensor for nothing...

As I said I only have a scan tool after I drive to the shop away from my house but I can not keep the truck at the shop or take the scan tool home so I don't know what it is reading at first key on. If I replaced it for no reason then so be it I am just looking for suggestions about what to look at next 

13 hours ago, Hawkez said:

That first sentence is pretty long and confusing.  Can you tell us what your truck is?  Any mods?

 

You said that you used a scan tool to activate the grid heaters?  But then you said you don't have a scan tool?  Have you checked for codes?  Preferably with a code reader.  The only thing wrong, that you can see, is the WTS light doesn't stay illuminated as long as you think it should?  Any other symptoms?

And also it's not what I "think" it should be on for, the ECM if everything is working correctly the WTS light should be on 10-15 seconds under 60 degrees as that is how long the heater element should be commanded on for 

Again, we need to know what the IAT temperature is showing when you turn the key on. Like I've got either ScanGauge II, OBDLink LX, or Quadzilla Adrenaline that will display the IAT temperature. This is the key factor in how long grid heaters fires or if the don't fire at all. I typically compare against the engine coolant sensor for accuracy. So if you IAT temperature3 is showing 65*F at key on while it actually colder then it not going to fire the grid heater at all. It does just the bulb check and that's it.

 

 

 

@mopar1973man is right, that information will help you determine your next step.  Otherwise you are just guessing.  Also, any codes?  or any other symptoms/issues?  It would also help if we knew the specifics on your truck and any mods you have done to it. 

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Again, we need to know what the IAT temperature is showing when you turn the key on. Like I've got either ScanGauge II, OBDLink LX, or Quadzilla Adrenaline that will display the IAT temperature. This is the key factor in how long grid heaters fires or if the don't fire at all. I typically compare against the engine coolant sensor for accuracy. So if you IAT temperature3 is showing 65*F at key on while it actually colder then it not going to fire the grid heater at all. It does just the bulb check and that's it.

 

 

 

The only thing I have to read codes is a smarty s06 and there are no trouble codes, I have nothing to look at the temps before first start up the only thing I have to look at colant temp is the factory gauge, I have noticed even after being turned off all night the factory gauge will still be up a little bit from the very bottom number but it will climb up to operating temp once warmed up, my mods on my 03 are Garrett 66mm turbo, k&n cold air intake, smarty s06, Airdog 150, beans diesel sump, leveling kit and that's it 

Need to get a live data tool from some one. You could buy a OBDLink for cheap...

http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/

 

Then you'll be able to read live data then. This is my current layout...

you need to find out what your IAT is reading.  It coud be readin ~20*f low and you would never know it except for this issue.  

2 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

you need to find out what your IAT is reading.  It coud be readin ~20*f low and you would never know it except for this issue.  

 

 

Is a IAT sensor is off it won't trip a code because it failed within normal operating range. This why we need the live data from the ECM at key On then we can see what the ECM is doing. 

Will autozone or anywhere else lend a scan tool that would read it? If so I could have someone drive me to get it so I could read what the ECM is saying the temps are at and just to make sure the IAT sensor is on your air box correct? Because I know there is another sensor in the plenum I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it or not 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Is a IAT sensor is off it won't trip a code because it failed within normal operating range. This why we need the live data from the ECM at key On then we can see what the ECM is doing. 

The sensor is the on in the manifold that the live data tool will see. The one in the airbox as far as I know is not readable with a OBDII live data tool. 

On November 10, 2016 at 5:48 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

The sensor is the on in the manifold that the live data tool will see. The one in the airbox as far as I know is not readable with a OBDII live data tool. 

Okay so an update for you today it was about 18 degrees when I went out to start the truck and before I started it up I opened the hood turned the key and after the light went off I waited and waited and I heard the heater relay click off at the right amount of time so is there a way that the indicator light could be wired to the break indicator light because I noticed they both come on and go off together no matter what so do you have a diagram that I could follow to check and see if the wiring just got messed up 

All wiring diagrams here...

Just one wire from the ECM to the light in the dash for the 

Edited November 16, 20168 yr by Mopar1973Man

9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

All wiring diagrams here...

Just one wire from the ECM to the light in the dash for the 

Is this the same for the 03 Cummins. I have an 03

Oppps... My bad I forgot what area I'm working in... Just looking the 3rd is way different... Give me some more time I'll get it hashed out.

12 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Oppps... My bad I forgot what area I'm working in... Just looking the 3rd is way different... Give me some more time I'll get it hashed out.

Thank you I appreciate it a lot just trying to avoid issues with this truck 

 

I still say to get a live data tool and check the IAT and ECT values first before anything else.