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Dropping the 47re (a618)

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Hey guys

Ok - onto next part of the equation.

The TC and VB are ordered - and should be here in a around 1 week.

Thought I would ask for advice on dropping and reinstalling the tranny as well as the TC/VB replacement.

Any thoughts or guidelines from experience. ??

I have heard the TC and the cross members can be a pain ......................

Any special tools or techniques help ?

Things to watch out for ?

thanks

John

:thumb1:

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:38 AM ----------

Oh - and yes- I am getting some help also :)

hahahaha - thought I would beat W+F telling me to do so *joke* :tongue:

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There is nothing to screw up while installing the converter as it is kind of self centering once it is on the shaft. Did you remove the tranny and t-case as 1 unit? If so there are only 6 nuts to remove to seperate them, I highly suggest it before trying the install and it will go a lot easier and be easier to line up.

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    There is nothing to screw up while installing the converter as it is kind of self centering once it is on the shaft. Did you remove the tranny and t-case as 1 unit? If so there are only 6 nuts to remove to seperate them, I highly suggest it before trying the install and it will go a lot easier and be easier to line up.

    We took all off as 1 unit. Was thinking of taking off the transer case to make it lighter. Mike mentioned need to replace the seal/gaskett between if we do this - can you pick that up from any autoparts store ? The balancing act with the transfer case did seem to be the hardest part - so much weight. thx guys
    • Author

    okGot the transfer case offI have tried reseating the the TC and I think its all the way in.even took the new one off and reseated the old one - the old one does fall below the bell housing line - but then the bolts welded on stick out 2". I think this design is just different - as the threads where the bolts will start are about the same distance (new versus old). I am now doing the VB. The instructions say remove the clip from th park rod - prior to removing the 10 bolts that hold the VB in ??? I am not usre if I can even see the park rod with the VB in - unless its the wrong thing.Any1 got a pic ?? I was planning on pulling the VB slightly and see if the park rod starts to come with it and then it may be more obvious ? thanks Once I get this done - my mate will be back - and we can retry tranny with no transfer case - should be easier. thanks guys

    • Author

    okthe part that I am struggling with is basically the metal shaft piece in top left corner of VB pick. I think this is the shift rod/linkage. I can't get this out - as there are clips and metal shifters on the outside - so can't pull it through. And I don't see how these would come off :shrug: or if they are meant to - assume so .... as else I don't know how you pull it through to replacepost-10132-138698165367_thumb.jpg

    • Author

    never mind ...... got it :)

    What a weird piece

    Just ply's off with a screwdriver pretty easy ......... lmao

    ok .... will update with next 'help' soon

    thx

    ---------- Post added at 03:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:01 PM ----------

    Biggest thing I see and have happen myself is to be careful when installing the VB as the gear selector shaft can roll the seal lip up or push it out so with the tranny on the ground it will be easier to watch and guide it into place preventing seal damage versus underneath and fighting it.

    Cool - VB in - did you mean as you push rod back into the case it can disrupt a seal ??

    It seemed to go ok - so thinking all alright. Bumped something 1str attempt - but not hard - then just guided it down.

    onto next part - get the tranny up ... minus transfer case

    ---------- Post added at 10:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------

    well - 2/3rdsd of the way there.

    We got the tranny back up in like 10 minutes without the transfer case. What a difference !!! Put it back on the tranny jack and tightened her down - so much easier to move and position - went straight on.

    Then spent about 3 hours @##$ around with the TC bolts. Got 3 on fine - then the other 3 just seemed to be off by like 1mm. So we loosened back down the 3, and kept rotating the flexplate - and eventually we got all 6 on nice and snug with some locktite.

    Benchpressed the transfer case up - that was hard but quick :nono: ........................... then tightened her all down.

    So tomorrow ....... get cross member and drivelines in, get all vaccum, sensor plugs back in, coolant lines with new temp probe, atf fluid, check everything over 1 more time and then start her up and get the gears changing and fluids added/topped off.

    ZZZZzzzzzzzzz

    • Author

    Good to hear its going smoothly so far...

    And you thought it was going 2B complicated and hard.:lol:

    hahaha - yeah ISX already laughed at me saying his is already back up Man - even though we struggled - its been fun - not sure I would want to do too many of these though. I just hope I have 4 gears at the end.:stuned:

    Well I had to give you a hard time somewhere along this transmission expedition lol. I actually haven't driven mine in 2 weeks now. But I don't think I coulda done what you did any faster, probably twice as long knowing me. I mean it took me 12 hours just to put mine back in, and all I have is 3 things on the trans to hook up, a crossmember and driveshaft :lmao: If I had some big tires for the creeper, I could probably have ran over all the tools a little smoother.

    • Author

    P,R,N and 1 forward good enough for ya?:lmao2:

    ha ha - ok ok - well actually - hell - that will get me to idaho/dakota ..... lmao ..... sure:tease:

    ---------- Post added at 05:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 AM ----------

    hey

    95% done

    Having small problem working out the linkage for the gear shift.

    Can someone post a photo or link ??

    Would it be in the FSM ? Its not in chiltons.

    thanks

    • Author

    http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/21-24-94.htm

    That help any? I'll keep digging.

    Only other thing I can find is the second pic in post #4, still not very good but not sure what exactly you need help with. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-powertrain/254445-tv-cable.html

    Should have been more descriptive. Need a GOOD photoshowing the spring mechanism right by the tranny cooler lines on drivers side tranny.

    Think it connects the TV and shift linkage - want to make sure we put back togetehr right. Couldn't find it in FSM either.

    thanks

    ---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:25 PM ----------

    ACTUALLY - that photo is it .... awesome - right on !! :thumbup2:

    Going out to hook that part up .....

    Any pics of the actual shift linkage near the frame ..... where it does a 90 degree turn to come down to the tranny ...... it bolts to the fenderwell (3 bolts) .......

    ---------- Post added at 07:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 PM ----------

    I think we got this.

    Had to loosen one and tighten the other - then the shifts seem ok going through gears

    update soon

    thanks isx

    Thats the only pics I could find with 10 min of searching. Someone on here with the 47RE would have to take a pic to get anything better. Maybe you got it figured out by now :lol:

    • Author

    Hey - no thanks that pic worked a treat. Goth everything in and all we had left over at the end was 1 washer :)

    Next problem - the truck won't start. I mean nothing - won't even kick over.

    Cycled key - and got a p1693 and check engine light.

    But nothing more.

    Checked sensors - they looked ok ............ any thoughts on how to proceed ? Checked fuses. Don't have a scanner avialable easily.

    Did disconnect and recoonect batteries (10 mins ) - no diff.

    *blah*

    ---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

    Thinking its one of the 3 sensors

    Don't think the vacuum actuator thing on top of tranny with 4 vacuum lines could do it

    Fuses are fine.

    Neutral Safety sensor ? --- how would you test if this is 'faulty'

    thx

    ---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 PM ----------

    hey

    ok - someone on CF mentioned Neutral Safety sensor

    Now I think about it - I remember when the VB went in - there seemed to be an extra 1mm where this mechanism was (it looks like a little ball point metal ball that would act as a electrical conductor when in right position) - so I am guessing its still out that much and therefore not registering the correct signal etc.

    Whats the best way to fix that - Do i need to send the VB back ?? OR can I somehow solder/increase the depth of the eletrical connector on the sensor in order for it to make contact ??

    ---------- Post added 05-24-2010 at 07:08 AM ---------- Previous post was 05-23-2010 at 10:38 PM ----------

    sorry

    just adding them as I think of them or see something.

    Should the truck start in 'N' with the brake pressed in. Read something about this bypases this mechanism - is this true for this truck ?

    Can we 'jump' the wiring harness with a paperclip or something to 'test' this safety feature as a one off thing to see if that is the cause ?

    thanks

    • Author

    There has to be some sort of adjustment there for the contact... :shrug:

    Can we jump the wiring harness with a paperclip to test this is the cause - do you know ? eg Leave in 'P' - have the harness bridged with paperclip to close circuit, and try starting ?
    • Author

    Someone who was doing a auto-> manual swap asked similar Q in CF.

    Response by someone was

    leave the auto plug in the wire under the dash and leave the nss wire on the clutch linkage unhooked and you need to ground the black/white wire in the transmission wire harness as this is the ground wire for the starter relay. The neutral safety switch on the auto is the ground for the starter relay and the clutch safety switch on a manual breaks the start wire between the ignition switch and the start relay.

    It was a 99 tho ....... but think he says here the black+white wires. I will need to check it out - not by truck right no - maybe in 2 hours - researching now and trying to call the company I bought from for ideas.

    ---------- Post added at 12:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:43 AM ----------

    OK we got it fixed.

    Took a washer out on the outside between the case and the NS switch. Allowed us to plug the switch into the body a few more mm and get a good connection. Then we ticked over the engine and she wants to start.

    So going ahead - will update soon

    ---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------

    Hey

    Took it for a ride - seemed a bit firmer and better.

    Main concern so far is the temperatures. I need to maek sure the TC is locking up.

    W+F - qq - I added the hotline with probe to the tranny cooler ..... and my temps are at least 40-60 degrees hotter there. So when I was running today (90 degree day) - the temps hit 180 in the mechanic guage test port - and 240 on the edge juice in that port on the hot cooler line.

    Needless to say I pulled over - whats the acceptable range for this port ?

    thanks

    john

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