i have been chasing a problem on my truck for a while now and it has cost me alot of money. i have noticed a difference in my truck for a while now and have replaced just about everything. my truck does not seem to have the same umff it use to have. my throttle does not have that load on it like it use to have. it does not pull hard like it use to. my boost numbers are lower(47 max with wastegate hose plugged). i use to be able to hit 58. its a combination of everything and it is driving me nuts. here is a list of stuff i have replaced: vp44, timbo apps, neighbors whole tps, map sensor, iat sensor, trans sensor, no boost leaks, 3 different injector sets, swapped out different chips(edge, adr., smarty, fms, no chip), new air filter, changed fass filters. dont know what else to do. i honestly hate driving my truck the way the throttle feels. my neighbor has a 99 and i will turn his chip off (he has 150 injectors) and his throttle feels like mine use to. at this point i dont mind the power thing but more of the load on the pedal feeling. infact, it is harder to drive my truck the way the throttle feels flimsy. my truck has only 84k miles. do i drive this thing off a cliff:mad:.

Ok... A few things... 1. If this the stock turbo on the truck? (HX35 or HY35) 2. What's your fuel pressure like? (Both WOT and Idle) 3. Do you have any error codes currently? (Codes can be present without the light) 4. What's your pyrometer temps like?

1. If this the stock turbo on the truck? (HX35 or HY35)

no. 62/71/13 high tech

2. What's your fuel pressure like? (Both WOT and Idle)

16 idle 13 wot

3. Do you have any error codes currently? (Codes can be present without the light)

no

4. What's your pyrometer temps like?

i can hit 1600 if i stay in it long enough

I'm going to have to say its a boost leak somewhere... You getting high pyro temps so that means there is fuel being pumped in but your boost pressure is lower so... Best guess...

might be an intercooler leak. i seen aftermarket claims of 200psi, but never have read what the factory one is rated for(flow, psi, or "hp"). you run a lot of boost. did you put heavier valve springs in? where do you get your fuel?

I'm going to have to say its a boost leak somewhere... You getting high pyro temps so that means there is fuel being pumped in but your boost pressure is lower so... Best guess...

might be an intercooler leak.

well, i did a major boost leak check. i found out that my intercooler is leaking pretty good. i would load about 8 psi with both ends of cooler blocked and it would be at 0 in 10 seconds. do u believe that this might be why my mpg is low and why my truck is slower and smokier on bottom?

you run a lot of boost. did you put heavier valve springs in? where do you get your fuel?

??? i am confused.

It is not that hard to hold back 8psi, and the fact that it can't just means at 40-50+psi it would be leaking like crazy. I am sure that is where all of your problems lie.

thanks for all you guys' help.

well, i did a major boost leak check. i found out that my intercooler is leaking pretty good. i would load about 8 psi with both ends of cooler blocked and it would be at 0 in 10 seconds. do u believe that this might be why my mpg is low and why my truck is slower and smokier on bottom? ??? i am confused.

Well it seems you found your leak... If you got the just the IC plugged off it shouldn't drop any pressure at any rate... As for the MPG and smoke... Oh trust me... If you loose just 1 bolt out of the maniold (6mm hole) its a enough to bring the boost pressure right down, low in power, really smokey, and whistlin' PSSST!

i put a intercooler on, pressure tested it, and all was good. no more leaks. went for a drive and..... no change. symptons r still there. i honestly think i am deeply cursed. i love my truck but now i hate the damn thing. any other ideas?

---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------

do u guys think that there might be a voltage problem somewhere? ecm, apps/tps, vp. i do not have any codes. do u guys know what the actual voltage numbers should be on certain parts? what parts should i test voltage on?

Use a live data tool like a ScanGauge II to watch sensors... www.scangauge.com Note MAP sensor values are off for the th98.5 to 02 but are correct on the 03 and up...

Use a live data tool like a ScanGauge II to watch sensors... www.scangauge.com

ths is new to me. so what does this actually do? while i am driving, does this thing tell me if all sensors are working properly? does it sense voltage readings on different parts on our trucks?

Fuel Economy » Fuel Rate » Battery Voltage » Coolant Temperature » Intake Air Temperature » Engine Speed (RPM) » Vehicle speed (MPH and KM/H) » Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles) » Engine Load » Throttle Position » Ignition Timing » Open/Closed Loop » Maximum Speed » Average Speed » Maximum Coolant Temperature » Maximum RPM » Driving Time » Driving Distance » Fuel Used » Trip Fuel Economy » Distance to Empty » Time to Empty » Fuel to Empty » Reads Trouble Codes » Reads conditions that set the Trouble Code » Clears Trouble Codes » Turns off "Check Engine" light » Tells you when vehicle is "Ready" to pass OBDII testing » Make and store up to 10 rewritable special codes to send to the vehicle computer Then here is a few vid's...

Use a live data tool like a ScanGauge II to watch sensors...

www.scangauge.com

Note MAP sensor values are off for the th98.5 to 02 but are correct on the 03 and up...

i don't know what it looks like on the scangauge...but on my live data tool, MAP is ~14.6=0 (on my 99)so if it says 20psi than you really have about 5.4psi. search for my live data if your interested in what my data look like

---------- Post added at 12:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

here it is. there are 3 on there

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1275-data-from-my-drive-on-the-highway

mopar man, i done my research and i think u sold me on a scangaugeII. the live data one seems to advanced for my little time that i have throughout the day. stylintrucks just sold me one over the phone for a great price. $153.49 shipped to my door. now hopefully this little device can help lead me to the right direction for the problem i am having. either way this device seems to be something i will always be using. thanks for the info.

Well i am having the same confusion like you all have..but after reading your suggestions its very easy to understand all my doubts..thanks a lot guys for such a great advice..<Removed>

with such high egt's and lowering boost numbers i wonder if your turbo is not up to par, you said you -plugged the waste gate, it makes me wonder.my advice is to drive it to my house and let me mess with it for a week or so i'll figure it out for you.Does your motor hard start? did you do a compression test on the cylinders? shoot the exhaust for temperature variance? you mention your hitting 1600F for exhaust temps that is ungodly high most heavily modified trucks.1,600F is around that temperature where things start to melt and warp, where an engine can become worn for all you know that the inter cooler leak was from back pressure when you let off without a blow off valve, or the cylinders are getting weak from excessive temperature.im just throwing this out there.

with such high egt's and lowering boost numbers i wonder if your turbo is not up to par, you said you -plugged the waste gate, it makes me wonder. my advice is to drive it to my house and let me mess with it for a week or so i'll figure it out for you. im just throwing this out there.

I AGREE x2 !! And even better pepsi/Izy - sell me that 62 for $500 and Ill get it working for ya ! Jokes aside .... man that sucks - I was gonna say put on a different chip - but youve done that as well as apps and new injectors ... best thing I can think of now is compression test ? If your sure no boost leak - and you've lost 10psi ...... then compression I think rogan or someone here has a writeup on it