New to this web site.

Ii am working on a 1999 Dodge 2500, 230,000 miles

Leaving work the other day, this past Friday, my truck quit as if the key had bee switched off, hard to start back up but did. Soon after that it happened again. the third time, I just parked it. got it running this past Saturday. ran great for about 6 miles, quit again, didn't start any more after that, I had to get it towed home.

 

Was able to get it started three times yesterday. First time it ran for about 30 seconds then just quit. Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick. Third time, after plugging TPS back in read just under 15 lbs. of fuel pressure at idle. Dead pedal while it was running. Tried starting it again after that but never did start up. Turns over well.

 

I should have made note of the two codes stored. will get them later today to better help with the problem.

 

A couple of questions to help me out at first. 

1. Would a bad TPS create a problem like this.

2. Should fuel pressure fall to 0 once the vehicle has been shut off? (pressure gauge on fuel filter housing)

3. Would a faulty heater circuit/relay cause this problem.

 

New list pump installed February 2016. (Airtex)

New IP installed November 2016 (Blue Chip brand - stock replacement)

New fuel filter (this past Saturday)

 

I will look for any responses/help in order for me to resolve any issue.

 

Thanks in advance!

Rad Duke

 

25 minutes ago, RAD said:

1. Would a bad TPS create a problem like this.

 

No. The truck will start and run without a TPS just no throttle control.

 

25 minutes ago, RAD said:

2. Should fuel pressure fall to 0 once the vehicle has been shut off? (pressure gauge on fuel filter housing)

 

Yes. This is normal. 

26 minutes ago, RAD said:

3. Would a faulty heater circuit/relay cause this problem.

 

You could just disconnect the grid heater and the fuel heater to prove other wise. I doubt it it would typically it will pull hard on the alternator but once you cross 20 MPH it should shut it off. Fuel heater is automatic and self controlled. 

 

28 minutes ago, RAD said:

Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick.

Do me a favor read the error codes this one behaves like an ECM going south. Also, have the alternator tested for excessive AC noise. Are you see delay in the WTS light to come on? Do you have a P0606 code? With the TPS unplugged it should just start and idle. 

I found a picture of the codes from a while back, never shut off then like it is doing now.

P0382, P0122 and P0216

 

I might add , the OEM positive cable end on the driver side failed/broke a  couple of weeks ago and I replaces it with a bolt-on type. I would like to replace it with an OEM type.($$$$)  Volt meter in dash reads just shy of 14 volts.

No P0606 code.

Yes there is a delay in the WTS light, In the past I have let it come on then go off, turn the key off then to run position and there is still a delay.

Edited January 16, 20187 yr by RAD

Have you tried to hot wire the vp yet? The timing code does not bode well for the health of the vp.

No, not yet. Was hoping to run other things down and rule them out before doing that.

It is honestly one of the fastest ways to rule out the vp.

I am hoping its not the IP since its not that old.

1 hour ago, RAD said:

Yes there is a delay in the WTS light, In the past I have let it come on then go off, turn the key off then to run position and there is still a delay.

 

ECM is starting to fail too. This is a sign of excessive AC noise did its damage from the alternator. 

Is there a way to test the ECM?

Send it into a rebuilder to be tested or go to a dealer and gamble that the tech knows what to do. 

Got  any leads on rebuilders?

I found ecmoutlet. 

We've got an ECM/PCM rebuilder list we are building. There is another member heading out for a rebuild a ECM as well.

 

 

THAT IS VERY HELPFUL!!

 

 

I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag.

 

From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for.

 

I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter.

 

Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug.

I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 20187 yr by RAD