I have a 2001 4x4 with a six speed transmission and 200000 miles.  The truck is a one owner,  I bought it from my Father in law and is completely stock.  I have been around the truck since it was bought new.

 

The truck was really strong until around 190000 miles when the VP44 went out.  The pump has been replaced with a unit from a local re builder in Memphis TN.  Since the VP44 replacement the truck has not been the same.  I drove it around 200 miles yesterday and it averaged 11MPG.  I have owned 24 valve Dodge trucks in the past and have always gotten high teens on fuel mileage and had much more power.

 

When I am accelerating thru the gears I cant manage more than 5 pounds of boost until the truck gets up to 2100 rpm and it is like you flip a switch and the boost raises quickly to around 22 pounds.  If I am cruising on the freeway around 70 MPH I have around 10 pounds of boost and the exhaust temp is around 900 degrees.  I am unable to produce more than 5 pounds of boost under 1800 RPM.

 

The truck has never had any injector work done that I know of. The engine runs and starts perfect it just does not have any power.  I cleared all the codes from the computer with a Matco scanner and drove the truck.  I had a P0216 code re appear but I don't have any of the symptoms related to the VP44 going out unless the low power and fuel mileage are related as the engine runs perfect.

 

 Any advice on where I should start looking to find my problem?  Don't know if it has any bearing but I cant make the truck produce any black smoke.  I know black smoke is not necessarily a good thing but all of my other trucks in the past have had black smoke.

 

I have made some up grades to the truck since I have been reading on this forum,

Gauges,  Fuel Pressure,  Boost Pressure and Exhaust Gas Temp.

Fuel Pump,  Fass 95 GPH.  I have 17 pounds of pressure while driving it down the road.  The stock pump showed to have around 11 pounds at an idle and 7 pounds under wide open throttle.  

 

I am not looking for a power monster only to get back to where the truck was before the VP44 replacement.

 

Injection pump issues. I would collect on the warranty of that injection pump. Did a shop install the pump or did you install it? Was the key lined up before torquing the shaft nut? I've seen sloppy installs where people shear the key off or plain out crush it because it wasn't lined up. 

 

Possibly a ECM issue and alternator AC noise issue. I would suggest testing the alternator for excessive AC noise. Do you have any delays for the WAIT TO START light? Does it come on instantly with the key?

Edited January 21, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

Thanks for the reply.

 

The warranty will have ran out on the pump by now.  The pump replacement was around 5 years ago.   When the truck did not perform as it did in the past he bought a new truck to replace it.  The truck has pretty much sit for around 5 years until I finally talked him into selling it to me.

 

My brother in law replaced the pump.  He is a 18 wheeler mechanic.  I am unsure about the key way.  I was going to check it yesterday but I was unable to find my mirror.  My 9 year old likes playing with it for some reason.  LOL

 

If the key was pushed off or crushed can it be replaced or do I just need to be looking to replace the pump?  If I replace the pump do you guys recommend any of the pump re builders?  

 

I bought the truck extremely cheap so I have plenty of room money wise to get the truck back running right.

 

The wait to start light does not have any delays.  It comes on as soon as the key is turned on to the on position.

Edited January 21, 20187 yr by BMC330

59 minutes ago, BMC330 said:

If I replace the pump do you guys recommend any of the pump re builders?  

 

Yes. I've got an article for that.

 

1 hour ago, BMC330 said:

If the key was pushed off or crushed can it be replaced or do I just need to be looking to replace the pump?

 

No. The key is stamped with a number and so is the case of the pump. So you can order replacement keys if needed.

There is other factor like worn injectors or worn injection pump that could produce the low MPG. The only problem is the only clue we've got right now is the P0216 code and possibly of a timing issue. Still highly suggest having the alternator tested too.

It will be this weekend before I will be able to work on the truck again.  I will start with testing the alternator and check the timing key.  I will advise of my findings.

 

Thanks for your help.

Today I developed a new symptom with the truck.

 

I had to use the truck to pull my tractor about 50 miles.  Everything was fine with the acceptation of the no power issue.  When I got unhooked from my trailer the truck did not want to start.  After nearly running down the batteries it finally started and ran fine.  I drove the truck for around a 20 mile trip to charge the batteries.  When I returned home I once again had the hard start issue.

 

I will try again in the morning and see if the hard start issue is still there.  I will also check the fuel filters on the Fass Pump I installed last weekend to make sure I am not getting air in the system.

 

 

Two questions...

 

1. Error Codes any present? Use OBDII code reader.

2. Fuel Pressure? What were the numbers like?

I will check it in the morning with OBDII computer.

 

Fuel pressure was 15 pounds.

Fuel pressure seem good. Was it low at all during cranking like ZERO then snap up to pressure that would be a sign of air issues.

My fuel gauge is electric so when starting the engine it zeros out.  I was paying special attention to the gauge as I turned on the key to make sure I had fuel pressure before attempting to start the engine.  It never showed to be on zero at anytime before attempting to start it.

 

When towing with the truck yesterday I had to run the truck at a much higher RPM than I ever have due to down shifting to pull hills.  I have never ran the truck at that high rpm in the past.  Not sure that it had any bearing on the issue but I just thought I would mention it.  My fuel pressure was never under 15 psi when at the higher RPM.

 

I will have to go to my nephew's shop to have access to a quality OBII scanner.  He has a new version from MATCO I only have a cheap one from Autozone.  I will advise if I have new codes as soon as I get ti hooked up. 

I will also perform the alternator AC noise test and check my VP44 timing key today. 

3 hours ago, BMC330 said:

My fuel gauge is electric so when starting the engine it zeros out. 

 

I've got the same problem but I typically hook up my mechanical gauge for test like these to get around the ZERO out problem. I'm running a ISSPro EV2 gauges. 

If you don't have any codes (in my mind something with map sensor) then check for boost leaks. It sounds like you're losing boost at lower rpm to me. Pressurize the system from turbo inlet and spray soap water everywhere, especially all of the boots and back side of compressor housing of turbo. Keep pressure regulated around 20-25 psi, not sure when your waste gate opens. I checked mine at 35. 

Ok guys sorry it has taken me so long today.

 

Checked the alternator noise with a fluke meter and got a reading of 0.035V ac

Have checked for the timing key.  It is there but it is the first time I have looked at the front gear of a pump but all looks good.

 

My codes are 

P0216

P0230

p1693 in companion JTEC Mod

P1698 CCD/J1850 Message from TCM/PCM

 

 

My hard start issues have gone away.  The truck started fine this morning and after a 90 mile drive to my brothers shop.

 

 

Edited January 27, 20187 yr by BMC330

You have CCD network issues and a dying injection pump. Your definitions are not correct. P1693 is just flag. Nothing more.

 

Thanks Mopar Man.  I was just typing what the scanner said on the code.  

 

You have been a big help.  I will get a new VP44 on the way and replace it.  I will post the outcome of this problem.  Almost all threads stop without telling what corrected the problem.  It drives me nuts lol.

 

16 hours ago, BMC330 said:

I was just typing what the scanner said on the code.  

 

Most scanners are generic and do not have the proper definitions for Diesel Engine or model specific error codes above 1000 in numbers. All error codes above 1000 is year, make and model specific so generic definitions tend to wrong 99.9% of the time. 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Most scanners are generic and do not have the proper definitions for Diesel Engine or model specific error codes above 1000 in numbers. All error codes above 1000 is year, make and model specific so generic definitions tend to wrong 99.9% of the time. 

With that said when you got your obdlink did you set it up for year of your truck, I used mine a few times but I just skipped that step

I typically just get the error numbers then come back here and get the right definition of the error codes.  

Thats what i will do in the furtute.  Thanks for your help guys.  Im going to pull the VP44 off the truck this weekend.

Ok guys sorry it has been so long.  Got around to replacing my VP44 today.  I have the same issues as before other than no hard starts when motor is hot.

 

The VP is from Pro Diesel.

 

Any ideas where i should look next for my next to find the issues?

11 minutes ago, BMC330 said:

Got around to replacing my VP44 today.  I have the same issues as before other than no hard starts when motor is hot.

 

Time to do an AC noise test of the alternator. What is your fuel pressure like at idle and at highway speed WOT?

 

12 minutes ago, BMC330 said:

The VP is from Pro Diesel.

 

I don't know the source of those VP44's and if they have been tested on a Bosch 815 test stand.

 

13 minutes ago, BMC330 said:

Any ideas where i should look next for my next to find the issues?

 

The biggest thing is test for AC noise and see if the alternator is creating issues for the ECM or possibly damaged the ECM from excessive AC noise.