First real post here, been lurking in the back ground but now I have a issue you all might be able to help me with. Ok got a 02 gen 2 nv5600, air dog pump. Start it in the morning to warm up (plugged in over night) and blocked wheels cause my driveway is on a incline and my ebreak is not the strongest. Come out to leave and have to put it in gear and shut off truck then remove blocks. Go to start back up and will not start just cranks but does not fire. Now I've been able to get it to start 2 different ways when this happens, either with ether or with my smarty using it to clear the 4 codes it shows. Those codes are as follows.

P0232
P0230
P1475
P1693

Now ive been told i need a new vp, a new pcu or ecu, could be ground issue, could be fuel pump relay issue (already replaced).

Who has had this problem? What was your solution?

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

3 hours ago, KATOOM said:

 

Everything's too loud for me to hear my relay click but I've confirmed with a 12 volt test lamp that the open pin on the delay relay will flash when cranking, proving the cycle of voltage to the relay during engine cranking.

I should say that I have NOT heard it in a good while. My heating aint what it used to be. You reckon 434k in the 2nd gen might have something to do with it?

 

@dripley Eh? You said what? Eh?

 

I'm only 100k behind you at 334k miles. 

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

The relay makes your ECM much happier. Do you have a hard start problem?

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by dripley

6 minutes ago, dripley said:

The relay makes your ECM much happier. Do you have a hard start problem?

No sir not that I can tell. I was just reading thru the thread about lower pressure equals easier starts and I was curious if my truck would start better? 

 

11 minutes ago, dripley said:

I should say that I have NOT heard it in a good while. My heating aint what it used to be. You reckon 434k in the 2nd gen might have something to do with it?

 

Hehe you guys aren't kidding! I'm hard of hearing to but its not from my truck.

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

No sir not that I can tell. I was just reading thru the thread about lower pressure equals easier starts and I was curious if my truck would start better? 

 

Hehe you guys aren't kidding! I'm hard of hearing to but its not from my truck.

The ECM takes care of lowering the pressure for starting. That is why it is important to use it to control the pump. Using the relay and letting the pump lead control it is the best way. It takes the load off of the ECM.

 

Trust me my hearing was leaving me before the Cummins. 

 

 

3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Hehe you guys aren't kidding! I'm hard of hearing to but its not from my truck.

 

Might be for me... Over time from this louder 4 inch Diamond Eye Muffled Exhaust. Damn, this is still loud and the drone is pretty good. Never had that with my old stock 3" inch exhaust. That was super quiet with a NAPA muffler. Loud enough MoparMom get mad at me because she can't hear me talking over the drone as I hit the exhaust brake in the same spot every time I travel downgrades. 

 

6 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I was just reading thru the thread about lower pressure equals easier starts and I was curious if my truck would start better? 

 

This is one of the reasons I always kept my fuel pressure around 17 PSI at idle and WOT at 15 PSI. This made the cranking pressure plenty low enough to never have a starting issue. Now with a 12 year old AirDog 150 I've bumped up the pressure a bit more because the winter cold the fuel pressure are even lower. 

 

Don't let anyone tell you about the torn diaphragm story. We've disproved that a few years ago when I tore a VP44 down and the quote "diaphragm" was a steel plate in a Revision 027 pump. 

very interesting. I'm in the process of installing new injectors currently so wish me luck guys! lol

 

2 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I'm in the process of installing new injectors currently so wish me luck guys!

 

Ah, that's easy. Come down here i'll do it for you. Just bring the beer for payment. 

I wish you luck, not hard to do at all. There is one thing I learned and I am not sure any instructions refer to this. After you install the injectors and before you tighten the hold downs be sure and snug up the injectors lines first. This will help align the two so you do not struggle with leaks later. Then torque the hold downs.

Just now, dripley said:

After you install the injectors and before you tighten the hold downs be sure and snug up the injectors lines first.

 

Thanks @dripley ...

 

He's right!

Thanks guys I don't have any doubts!

3 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Thanks @dripley ...

 

He's right!

I like to beat my trying stop leaks after the first time.

1 minute ago, Marcus2000monster said:

Thanks guys I don't have any doubts!

Another thing i might is while you the lines off clean the mating surfaces with a scotch brite pad. Those surfaces make the seal. The nuts just apply pressure to for the surfaces to seal. The threads themselves are not the seal.

I  must remove the injection lines from the vp44 to correct?? Thanks and sorry OP! 

3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I  must remove the injection lines from the vp44 to correct?

 

No. I typically leave all the lines in place to change injectors. Just remove all the bolts holding the injector lines to the intake. They will flex just a little bit to allow the connector tubes to be pulled out.

@Mopar1973Manis right, you dont have too. But after my first install and the leaks, I took them off and cleaned them. The second ime I just did it because I could. Most everything is loose anyway, why not. Just a personal choice for me.

4 minutes ago, dripley said:

@Mopar1973Manis right, you dont have too. But after my first install and the leaks, I took them off and cleaned them. The second ime I just did it because I could. Most everything is loose anyway, why not. Just a personal choice for me.

So only the hold down clamps need to be loosened?

3 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So only the hold down clamps need to be loosened?

There are 2 bolts on the hold downs, you only remove one and the hold will sip off of the other. The instructions tell you which one. Then you pop the injector out. Install the new and you put the hold down on just dont tighten the bolt. You will see when you pull them out, a groove in the injector and a tongue on the hold down. That will get them close and snuggling up the injector line does the fine tuning, then torque the hold down.

 Bring it down here and I will make the same offer as @Mopar1973Man. It's just a wee bit longer drive.

Just now, dripley said:

There are 2 bolts on the hold downs, you only remove one and the hold will sip off of the other. The instructions tell you which one. Then you pop the injector out. Install the new and you put the hold down on just dont tighten the bolt. You will see when you pull them out, a groove in the injector and a tongue on the hold down. That will get them close and snuggling up the injector line does the fine tuning, then torque the hold down.

 Bring it down here and I will make the same offer as @Mopar1973Man. It's just a wee bit longer drive.

I meant high pressure line hold down clamp! 

13 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

So only the hold down clamps need to be loosened?

 

No. The 10mm bolts holding the lines to the intake. Do not mess with the 8mm clamps. 

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

 

No. The 10mm bolts holding the lines to the intake. Do not mess with the 8mm clamps. 

Got it! No way I'm coming iver! Iv got my own beer and I'm having fun! 

how the heck do you get a foot long 3/4 inch end wrench on the clear back injector?