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Track bar and front end upgrades

Posted

My track bar just separated at the balljoint near the differential. Which is the best upgrade and why? I read on a few sites that the newer dodge pickups will match up front end components.?  I also can turn the steering wheel about 3” to 4” before I get response for steering. What should I do to correct this steering and get it back to new steering. I have 285/75R 16 tires and stock 16” wheels. No other mods accept for a Darin’s steering stabilizer. The truck is a 2002 HO Cummins 2500 Sport

Edited by Seanjj
Wrong info

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  • KATOOM
    KATOOM

    Also, dont turn the steering wheel while the trucks not rolling and make sure the alignment is good.  The amount of stress that places on steering/suspension components is huge.....

  • dripley
    dripley

    These trucks like to eat cheap track bars. I am on my second MOOG with a larger ball joint. Maybe 140k on the first one and about 40k on the second and counting. I would suggest replacing and then wit

  • Dieselfuture
    Dieselfuture

    Not the best pictures just had these saved here already. It's the red color bar that's partly painted black. There is a piece of angle bracket to support the bar up top. Kind of looks like chicken wel

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When I installed my adjustable track bar I hung weights off the front fenders with tape and string.  The weights were positioned so that they indicated the alignment of the axle to the left or the right.  This allowed me to center it and then correct the steering wheel if necessary.

You'd be surprised how far to the side the track bar will pull the axle with just a 2" leveling kit.

  • Owner
17 minutes ago, KATOOM said:

You'd be surprised how far to the side the track bar will pull the axle with just a 2" leveling kit.

 

No joke. I've seen this very common up here where pup's buy a cheap 2" level kit and set of 35" tires and slap them on to find out they made a train wreck out of the front axle geometry and can figure out why the truck wonders all over now.  :duh:

Go with Moog problem solver. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings. Check your steering box for play. Replace all worn out parts. 

If you plan to do a lift in the future, go with this track bar now, and you won't regret it: http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02100XHD-TRACBAR-KIT-94-02-STOCK-TO-4-LIFT-_p_352.html

  • Author
12 hours ago, Honky Whip said:

Go with Moog problem solver. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arm bushings. Check your steering box for play. Replace all worn out parts. 

If you plan to do a lift in the future, go with this track bar now, and you won't regret it: http://www.dtprofab.com/DTP02100XHD-TRACBAR-KIT-94-02-STOCK-TO-4-LIFT-_p_352.html

I installed the DS1413 MOOG track bar . I did the ball stud end first . Then I had help from my 6 year old who turned the steering wheel for me while I lined up the bolt hole on the axle bracket.  The MOOG packaging said a higher torque ball stud but listed no torque.. I called MOOG and the guy there said it meant more durable not a higher torque on the nut . So 70 ft/lbs on ball stud and 130 ft/lbs on axle bracket bolt.  Now to track down where the rest of the play is at....

  • Owner
6 hours ago, Seanjj said:

So 70 ft/lbs on ball stud and 130 ft/lbs on axle bracket bolt.  Now to track down where the rest of the play is at....

 

I never torque it that much. Since the ball end is tapered just need enough to seat the taper snug so it can move. Then cotter key the nut in place. The bushing end I quit running down that tight after the salt and mud sets in the bolt get rather stubborn to get back out after 200k miles.  Everything is tight but not overkill. My problem is I do get the mileage out of ball joints and track bars and normal don't change them but every 150k to 200k miles. The last one I replaced (NAPA) I tighten everything super tight and fought like hell to get it back apart. Nature's thread locker had set in. (Rust!) Then the ball stud didn't want to come out even with a 6-pound sledge and pickle fork.

    • Like 1
    6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

     

    I never torque it that much. Since the ball end is tapered just need enough to seat the taper snug so it can move. Then cotter key the nut in place. The bushing end I quit running down that tight after the salt and mud sets in the bolt get rather stubborn to get back out after 200k miles.  Everything is tight but not overkill. My problem is I do get the mileage out of ball joints and track bars and normal don't change them but every 150k to 200k miles. The last one I replaced (NAPA) I tighten everything super tight and fought like hell to get it back apart. Nature's thread locker had set in. (Rust!) Then the ball stud didn't want to come out even with a 6-pound sledge and pickle fork.

    Mine was very stubborn, had to use a pitman arm puller to get mine loose at the frame end. Worked great.

    • Like 1
    • Owner
    7 minutes ago, Honky Whip said:

    had to use a pitman arm puller to get mine loose at the frame end.

     

    Neat idea. I'll have to pick up one from HF to toss in the tool box.

    I keep both the P A puller and a pickle fork, they both work nicely.

    • 2 weeks later...

    To get rid of my front end play I did the tie rod ends, ball joints, and track bar. This was all over the course of a year. Most of the play was coming from the track bar and tie rod ends. I ended up going with the DOR track bar, which in hindsight was probably a little more expensive than its worth. Also it takes a while for them to ship it to you. Don't get me wrong its a good quality product but there are cheaper solutions.

    Edited by BurtNasty

    34 minutes ago, BurtNasty said:

    To get rid of my front end play I did the tie rod ends, ball joints, and track bar. This was all over the course of a year. Most of the play was coming from the track bar and tie rod ends. I ended up going with the DOR track bar, which in hindsight was probably a little more expensive than its worth. Also it takes a while for them to ship it to you. Don't get me wrong its a good quality product but there are cheaper solutions.

    I ordered the DOR bar too. After waiting and getting the run-around for 2 months, I pulled the plug on that and went with the DT Pro Fab. Happy so far. DOR operates at the speed of smell, and getting my money refunded was like pulling teeth. There are definitely better options out there!

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    Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.