Well gang... I finally had enough of the random misfire that I was having. So this morning I broke down and got the shop clean up enough to get my truck in. So I did the typical disassembly and got the injectors out... This is the internals of a 24V injector (RV275) What I did was made a jig to hold the injector while you remove the nozzle nut. I used a allen wrench in a vise to make said jig. Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. Well I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and a old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the pic above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take a old scotch bright one thats been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern some what but also insures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has wear marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. This side down. Heck... Let me get more pics and I'll continue this write up...

Dang that is nice... Now I got to get down to Boise, ID to buy some... Grrrr! (360 mile round trip!)

It actually says "not recommended on painted metals, chrome, if it doesn't have black residue it is not polishable!" They would make a ton of money if they would erase that. I've been running around doing little spots on everything and can't see anything negative about it. My dad even has road oil all over his truck that he couldn't get off with diesel fuel or break cleaner, but that stuff take it off after a minute. I want to take another injector out but clean the tip longitudinally. The lateral marks I am pretty sure are from the process to make the nozzle, but I want to make sure and show how it won't scratch it.

Dang that is nice... Now I got to get down to Boise, ID to buy some... Grrrr! (360 mile round trip!)

Don't you have UPS, FEDEX or mail order up there?

Yeah but just to ship a small item cost like $15 to $20 bucks... For another $20 to $25 I might as well make a shopping trip out of it and pickup more supplies for the shop and property...

Took the last 2 out that I have never cleaned and did my test of cleaning it longitudinally. Just as I thought, it won't scratch it. Whatever they use as an abrasive is only hard enough to get the carbon off. The picture shows the result of what I did in the video, in case you can't see it. It cleans a lot better if you twist is on the nozzle but I had to test the scratch theory.