Ok so here I go, I have a 99 ram 2500 4x4 auto trans 24v 280k miles. I am having a gremlin and here are the symptoms and the story. It started with my transmission not shifting out of 1st no matter how few or many rpms you threw at it unless you let off the petal and kicked it down that way, so I replaced Gov pressure solenoid, transducer, and for good measure the o/d and lockup solenoids as well also tightened the bands to spec and put new fluid in. Did not fix the issue, then the next day driving to work my speedometer says I'm not working Monday and drops to 0, so i replace both the speed sensor in the transmission tail housing and the one in the rear axle. Fixes the speedo issue but not the shifting issue. Then i get a check engine code for my apps, i put the multimeter on it and it checked out fine but i replaced it anyway with the one sold on the store here code went away, UNTILL the truck is driven. Once I get up to about 1600-1800 rpm (rpm is the only factor I have found in when it goes off) the check engine light comes on, but here is the kicker when you shut the truck down it clears the check engine code from existence. 

 

****an update on this as well, yesterday while driving home doing about 55mph the truck acted like it shifted from o/d into 2nd it was enough to pull me forward in my seat some from the force of the downshift. I also have a symptom of wait to start light not coming on right away it comes on about 45 seconds after you put the key in the on position and the truck will not fire unless you wait for it to go out, I do hear my lift pump kick on when the wait to start light comes on but not before.

 

This all kinda leads me to believe it's not a multitude of problems like I have been looking at it but some form of electrical or grounding gremlin (i know I know those are so rare) or even a bad ecm.

 

This is my daily driver so I need to get it back to a reliable state and help is greatly appreciated.

36 minutes ago, jamesecox said:

So the WT wiring mod is done, I just wanted to know if the alternator cable should be fused since it was from the factory? 

Good question,  it's been debated here lately. I've been running around without a fuse for a while but thinking about getting one. Chances of something happening are slim but they are definitely there. Last time I needed the fuse I was pissing with the stud on back of alternator and touched the ground with my ratchet. Not sure how much damage it would do without the fuse. And then the other scare is starting under hood fires from cooked alternators.

On 11/14/2018 at 6:11 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Good question,  it's been debated here lately. I've been running around without a fuse for a while but thinking about getting one. Chances of something happening are slim but they are definitely there. Last time I needed the fuse I was pissing with the stud on back of alternator and touched the ground with my ratchet. Not sure how much damage it would do without the fuse. And then the other scare is starting under hood fires from cooked alternators.

So with that being said what is the harm in leaving the alternator wire running to the power distributon box where it is fused? I added a fuse inline just in case I'm just working on the theory behind it is all.

On 10/24/2018 at 10:44 AM, pepsi71ocean said:

 

What are your pressures at the test port in D with O/D off at 1,800 rpm? While 59 is barely in the acceptable rage, you should be closer to 75psi at idle. and in the 140-160psi range at 1,800rpm. 55 is stock by the way.

Now I should also add that line pressures should also be adjusted based on engine HP as well. If your pushing 400HP you should see 160 to 180psi. 3rd gear seems to get abused and fails as much as the O/D units do. but Since your truck has a built transmission then i suspect we need to check these before moving further into the valve body.

 

How is your TV cable settings? does the truck downshift at all? Im wondering if your valves aren't set right on the pressure side.

Truck downshifts just fine, transmission was built but for towing not a race application or anything my truck is only about 100hp over stock. So nothing crazy

38 minutes ago, jamesecox said:

So with that being said what is the harm in leaving the alternator wire running to the power distributon box where it is fused? I added a fuse inline just in case I'm just working on the theory behind it is all.

The reason that wire is rerouted is because of all the noise coming off it that affects other wires in that Loom. I believe that's the main reason. 

Ok so update, ended up doing a trans swap again, first issue is the truck will only start in neutral not.in park however the new one shifts perfect and works good, for about 40 miles then the overdrive off and trans temp kicked on. Dip stick shows full and it seems to work fine. Any suggestions?

After closer inspection the issue has been figured out but not resolved. The transmission that I got was out of a 2000 and my truck is a 99 so the transducer and temp sensor is different. I have all brand new sensors that I had just put in my old transmission. my question now is can I just change out the harness and sensor with my old ones, meaning are they the same size etc. Going to try it this afternoon and hope for the best. Also update on the trans I pulled from my truck, I sent it in to be rebuilt and the shop found that the seal for the round 8 pin connector was bad and was allowing transmission fluid to get in and and jack up the signal and that was the entire reason for my transmission issues. well I guess new alternator and wiring mods and all that were probably a good idea anyway.