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SO as some of you may have seen, I bought a new truck, 2000 with a 47re, problem is it only goes backwards! So here's the story:

 

Kid I bought it from bought it about a year ago from the original owner to, and I quote, "to roll coal and do burnouts" and he did just that, and it took the tranny with it... kinda. It started out he said slipping a bit, so do what most people would do when they're trying to sell their truck and tranny starts slipping, burnouts! Couple burnouts later it wouldnt go above 25mph, so he took it to a buddies and they put more atf in it, I don't know why, and magically it doesn't move forward any  after they did that, and here I sit.

 

Now, for the symptoms:

 

Obviously no drive so no 1/2 either. When you shift from park to reverse, it locks up very well and strong, no problems there. Shift out of that into neutral and it unlocks of course, then you shift into drive and it doesn't lock up and lurch forward or anything, it's like it's stuck in neutral or something, but it does shift it into drive, I know that, I have checked that it's actually shifting it into drive on the side of the tranny, just isn't wanting to actually move forward. The kid I bought it from (not brightest so take this with a grain of salt) said the shift kit didn't work in it but never explained to me what he meant by that, probably because he didn't know what he was actually talking about. When trying to put it into tow/haul in park the light didn't come on so I can confirm that, however I don't know if you have to be in drive to do that or not, surely someone will know and I'll go do the right thing and report back.

 

Since I bought the truck I have done nothing to it, partially cause I have no space currently and partially due to me getting sick over Xmas break conveniently, so besides all I've told you, I know nothing more. As always anything helps and I would really appreciate all the help I can get. I'm honestly very scared about this truck because I know nothing about automatics and I don't wanna be in over my head with repairs cause of a childish kid who can't grow up. Again, thanks for the help!

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  • Your truck does not have a Tow/Haul mode, only an OD cancel button. Those switches in the shift lever go out all of the time. That's the first place I'd look.   While pressure testing is nev

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    Time to bring in @Dynamic .   I'm sure Jon would know what to do.

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27 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

@TheGreatWhite and @Mopar1973Man Here is the latest article I have submitted. I know it will help you out @TheGreatWhite since your going to be doing this on your own.

 

I'm unsure if it will show up, since it says it needs to be approved first?

 

 

I see it I'll take a read. Thank you sir!

8 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

I see it I'll take a read. Thank you sir!

 

Even through the truck doesn't move you will still have line pressures at some point.

  • Author
2 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

Even through the truck doesn't move you will still have line pressures at some point.

And like you said it could just be a valve body issue, since I don't have tow/haul, and if it is I'll probably throw a party!

21 hours ago, TheGreatWhite said:

And like you said it could just be a valve body issue, since I don't have tow/haul, and if it is I'll probably throw a party!

Your truck does not have a Tow/Haul mode, only an OD cancel button. Those switches in the shift lever go out all of the time. That's the first place I'd look.

 

While pressure testing is never a bad idea, I'm not sure it's going to tell you much in this case. When the failed component is on the other side of an orifice from the pressure source, you'll often see normal (or close to it) line pressure at a test port, while there's no pressure at the component.

  • Author
2 hours ago, Dynamic said:

Your truck does not have a Tow/Haul mode, only an OD cancel button. Those switches in the shift lever go out all of the time. That's the first place I'd look.

 

While pressure testing is never a bad idea, I'm not sure it's going to tell you much in this case. When the failed component is on the other side of an orifice from the pressure source, you'll often see normal (or close to it) line pressure at a test port, while there's no pressure at the component.

Oh ok I'll look there!

 

So what you're saying is just go ahead and pull the tranny, that's just wasting time? Or should I still check it?

For a "no forward" condition, yes, I would pull the transmission.

  • Author
3 minutes ago, Dynamic said:

For a "no forward" condition, yes, I would pull the transmission.

Gotcha, thank you sir!