So I finished up installing my Quadzilla Adrenaline with V2 programming and absolutely love it!!! Man I wish I had never wasted money on another programmer really happy with what it is capable of. But I do have a few questions, I have read Mikes programming info guide, but maybe I need some things in a more dumb downed version lol. But the more I read it the more pieces I seem to put together.

 

Question 1) when I really get on it and hit 5 gear where it has a long time to pull hard, power fades in and out? The boost is like a slow pulse it basically wont hold say 30lbs it goes 20ish then spikes past 35 then back down and back up in lets say 1.5 sec surges. What would cause that?

 

As far as tune it looks like this Pump Stretch 1200,TPS Max 100%, TPS Min 25%, Min Pump tap 0%, Pump Low Boost Scale 10 psi, Boost Scaling 30 psi, Timing max load offset 2, Low PSI timing Reduct 3, Timing reduct scaling 50%, Light Throtle timing adv 2, Light throttle load limit 25%, RPM Timing max 14 17.5 21 24 27, can Bus starts a 89 grows 1%to 8psi (97%) then grows by 3.5 through the rest of the scale. 

 

1) I'm scared of timing because no head studs so I'd take advice!! I will say that the Smarty I was running on the fuel economy setting, seemed/felt to have an *** load of timing in comparison maybe?

   

2) I was shocked when I saw my boost gauge wrap all the way around past 35 and pin the needle at the 6 oclock position!! How do I control that? Whats too much boost with no stud? and I sure its a combination of boost and timing that I need to be conscious of? 

 

3) How do I develop an economy tune when I live such a changing environment? Example I live at 3200 ft elevation at the base of the Blue Mountains in Washington, I work at a Dam on the snake river at 150 ft elevation dropping and pulling 3 grades all of them a couple miles long (two 7% one 9%) on my commute. So engine load is all over the place. Thanks for the advice  

 

16 minutes ago, codie2379 said:

I'm scared of timing because no head studs so I'd take advice!! I will say that the Smarty I was running on the fuel economy setting, seemed/felt to have an *** load of timing in comparison maybe?

 

Like I'm learning timing is based off your injector pop pressure. Like my old wore out 7 x 0.0085 injectors needed at least a cruise timing of 22° at 2,000 RPM because the fuel droplets were just too big to light off quick enough. Needed more timing to make OK MPG numbers. 

 

Now like my current 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar is requiring much less timing being the fuel is atomized better and requires less time to BANG!. Now I'm running 18° of cruise timing at 2,000 RPM.

 

16 minutes ago, codie2379 said:

I was shocked when I saw my boost gauge wrap all the way around past 35 and pin the needle at the 6 oclock position!! How do I control that? Whats too much boost with no stud? and I sure its a combination of boost and timing that I need to be conscious of?

 

I'm assuming ISSPro EV2. That would be a bad ground on the gauge. 

 

16 minutes ago, codie2379 said:

How do I develop an economy tune when I live such a changing environment? Example I live at 3200 ft elevation at the base of the Blue Mountains in Washington, I work at a Dam on the snake river at 150 ft elevation dropping and pulling 3 grades all of them a couple miles long (two 7% one 9%) on my commute. So engine load is all over the place. Thanks for the advice  

 

I'm in the same boat with my constant travel to a high of 4,300 feet and then back down to 2,200 feet in Ontario. The best thing I can suggest pick up this app for your device. 

 

https://www.simplyauto.app/

 

Now start tracking your MPG's. When you make a tune change make sure to run a full week of travel and look at your MPG numbers. If the last change the numbers went down you know your going the wrong direction in your tune. If it going up then you are heading the right direction and you might nudge the setting a bit more and see.

 

As for my own write up...

Edited February 3, 20196 yr by Mopar1973Man

6 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Like I'm learning timing is based off your injector pop pressure. Like my old wore out 7 x 0.0085 injectors needed at least a cruise timing of 22° at 2,000 RPM because the fuel droplets were just too big to light off quick enough. Needed more timing to make OK MPG numbers. 

  

Now like my current 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar is requiring much less timing being the fuel is atomized better and requires less time to BANG!. Now I'm running 18° of cruise timing at 2,000 RPM.

I have 7 x .0085 DAP I installed them new about 4 months ago, any idea what they would set the pop at? 

9 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I'm assuming ISSPro EV2. That would be a bad ground on the gauge. 

 Auto-Meter Manual Boost gauge not a big fan of electronic gauges.

 

I will down load app and start tracking Thanks 

3 hours ago, codie2379 said:

any idea what they would set the pop at? 

 

305 bar most likely.

 

3 hours ago, codie2379 said:

Auto-Meter Manual Boost gauge not a big fan of electronic gauges.

 

Then you gauge has mechanical issues if the needle is wrapping around and pointing straight down. 

4 hours ago, codie2379 said:

The boost is like a slow pulse it basically wont hold say 30lbs it goes 20ish then spikes past 35 then back down and back up in lets say 1.5 sec surges. What would cause that?

 

Sounds like it's de-fueling. What's your boost defuel and EGT defuel set at? Does it do this on level 3? Or 2?