I replaced my VP44 pump using the procedure laid out by Mopar1973man. Thanks for that. After just joining the forum, AND after reading about the TC/transmission problems due to faulty alternator and grounding issues, I was wondering if the APPS re-learn procedure should be part of the VP44 replacement procedures?

     I was having an issue with 47re not wanting to kickdown or maybe no throttle response, is a better way to describe it ,after the transmission shifted into 5th gear. It kinda wants to buck when giving it more throttle and has progressed to slowing down on inclines even with peddle to the floor. This morning I removed the Alt fuse and unplugged the field wire to Alternator and symptoms remain the same. Fluid is full and color is fresh in the transmission. No MIL on dash. 

      Next job is to clean and re-tighten all grounds, remove all add-ons (amp, edge, back up leds, tranny cooler fan) and test the Alt.( even though the "test drive" didn't change the issue I should use the meter to verify any anomaly.

      I hadn't read any posts exactly describing my issue of the tranny shifting through every gear as it should, with plenty of torque and response, but then no response once 5th gear is achieved. It has progressively worsened in the past 4 weeks since the VP44 install. But was doing it before and I just expected it to be the PPump finally failing. The ppump controller death code had been set and check engine on the dash over a year.

    I will report back after doing the ground maintenance and volt testing. I did the APPS reset yesterday. I have used this forum info for several repairs and diagnosing. I like the fact that most posts and replies to posts aren't a bunch of users writing replies just to be posting, but actual tried it, did it, it worked, real time, real knowledge replies. Hope I can contribute to this sight every now and then. For the most part, my truck has been great and purchased as maybe the last truck I will ever need. I'm tapping this out on my laptop so anybody reading this on a phone is gonna be like."shut-upalready" . Thanks for any insight.

(Oh yeah, fuel mileage is really bad. I changed the fuel filter prior to the VP44 job)

Edited February 15, 20205 yr by InGear
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2 hours ago, dripley said:

I have pulled my tank twice but dont remember having to jack up the truck to get it out. I am 4wd so I am sure that made a difference compared to 2wd. Dropped mine on the ground and pulled it out at doors. 

 

I have not tilted the bed but folks I have seen do it remove the front bolts then loosen the rear and raise up the front of the bed.

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

57 minutes ago, InGear said:

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

Like I said I have not done it but have seen a few pictures on here and thats how others have. Me, I just dropped the tank.

I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

37 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

Yep. Seems like a safer option. Less rigging.  I have a transmission cooler mounted on the frame right behind the transfer case but it looks room between the fuel tank and it on the inside of frame. I want to keep it accessible but" high and dry"

On 3/6/2020 at 9:55 AM, dripley said:

Your old pump might pump it out. Worth a try. Or just tilt the bed up. 

I was able to pump out the tank into 5 gallon bucket with the old pump. Dropped the tank, pretty straight forward when practically empty. May have been 4 gallons left in it. I have a transmission cooler behind the skid plate so had to settle for mounting on the outside of the frame. Worked out well. I got my Airdog from Vulcan along with the draw straw bulkhead rig that seats in the fuel module where the old in-tank pump motor resided. A new Autometer gauge mounted below the ashtray and tapped in the ashtray light for power for the illumination feature. Running at 15psi. Got my throttle back. WooHoo!!  I still have the analog test meter hooked to the APPS module plug. It reads pretty steady all the way through the throttle but I want to test it tomorrow with the cruise control on a smoother road. Bouncing around and into the throttle, I wasn't for sure the needle wasn't fluctuating or my foot moving with the bouncing. Thanks for your help.

Do you have a needle valve on the tap for the fuel pressure gauge? If so close it and then barely crack it open. And I mean barely. 

 

You are welcome for the help. Learned most all of what I passed on to you from the members here.

Yes sir, I bought one after I read some threads on here about gauges. The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long. Seems to be pretty steady. Only time in the seat will verify the setup. I've had 3 vehicles all with issues since my Dodge started bucking. I have two back in shape and the Toyota needs a flexplate (cracked), so that will be a new adventure. Two wheel drive automatic. Never done one solo. 

13 hours ago, InGear said:

The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long.

 

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years.

 

Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

 

 

Edited March 20, 20205 yr by Mopar1973Man

On 3/20/2020 at 8:34 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Ditch that isolator... Direct plumb that ot the gauge and put a cutoff valve if there is a leak. Isolators will cause gauge accuracy issues. I ran direct plumbed to a mechanical gauge for 10+ years.

 

Now I've switch to ISSPro EV2 electronic gauges. Comes with USB programmable warning lights, programmable backlight you can match the brightness to the cluster, and programmable needle speed, then programmable aux relay to switch devices on or off like cooling fans.

 

 

Thanks, I got a cut-off installed, recommended by dripley. When you wired your 150 amp circuit breaker for the WT mod, does the aux/load side connect to the battery and the batt. side of the breaker attach to the alternator cable?