2001 ram 2500. Just replaced wiring harness with that of a 2002 parts trick. Finally got it running but the cruise light stays on form the time the key is turned on to off. I have tried holding the buttons. I have tried tapping then repeatedly. Before I replaced harness(truck caught fire) the cruise would turn in and off anytime I wanted. Clock spring? Wrong pcm? I’m stumped. 

Was the 02 a manual also?

8 hours ago, dripley said:

Was the 02 a manual also?

Yes it’s a 2002 cab and chassis 5 speed.

Ahhhhh would it matter if the trick I used for parts and computers was a full manual window, lock, seat and non cruise truck? 

PCM and wiring should be match to years. Being the PCM is the master coumpter and the wiring change several times through the years. 

2 hours ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

Ahhhhh would it matter if the trick I used for parts and computers was a full manual window, lock, seat and non cruise truck? 

Yes it would. Cruise is computer controlled in the 01 and 02 manual trucks. Did not realized you changed the computers too. 

The 01 and 02 are very similar and I would think if everything is working right you are good to go. You could get the computers re-flashed for cruise I suppose. if the 01 computers are still good swap them on and see what happens.

Like later manual trucks are fly by wire cruise without a vacuum motor. Where the early trucks were all vacuum motor cruise control.

I’ll swap the 01 pcm back onto the truck and see if it makes it work properly. Crossing my fingers! Also does anyone know if the vent for the transfer case vacuum lines is just a 1 way valve? Venting to atmosphere by not sucking air back? Or is it open all the time? The vent melted in the fire.

Just a vent. Just so no rain or water is sucked into the vacuum pump. Remember this would be dumped right into the engine oil if the vent hose had access to water. 

21 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Just a vent. Just so no rain or water is sucked into the vacuum pump. Remember this would be dumped right into the engine oil if the vent hose had access to water. 

So could I find one of these at the local parts store?

Is your 01 ECM burnt up? Sometimes the different years dont play well together.

3 hours ago, dripley said:

Is your 01 ECM burnt up? Sometimes the different years dont play well together.

Yes, It Burnt up in the fire. I plugged it back in and it had 9 ecm codes that were not there before the fire. And new ecm takes away the codes. I only gave 1998,2000,2002 ecm now. But not 01. It was my only 01 truck. I could always have the ecm flashed with the smarty I have. What are the chances of this working though? I have a 6 and 5 speed 2002 ecm. 1998 5 speed, and 2002, 2000 automatic.

I would try the 02 manuals and see what happens. Either of them have cruise control? I dont know what programming the smarty will do for cruise control. Not up on that at all.

 

I had the same issue as you many years ago. I went the rebuild route and it was not much fun. The first one did not work and the second all but the cruise. The light staid on when whenever the key was on but the cruise did not work. I year later  when it failed I bought a new one and the cruise has worked ever since. 

16 hours ago, dripley said:

I would try the 02 manuals and see what happens. Either of them have cruise control? I dont know what programming the smarty will do for cruise control. Not up on that at all.

 

I had the same issue as you many years ago. I went the rebuild route and it was not much fun. The first one did not work and the second all but the cruise. The light staid on when whenever the key was on but the cruise did not work. I year later  when it failed I bought a new one and the cruise has worked ever since. 

I have the original 01 pcm in it now and I will swap the ecm and see what happens. The oil pressure sensor now stays at 40 with the key on and engine off. And it doesn’t move while running. I bought new sensor with no luck. 

 

 

The 02 engine and computers uses a switch and not a sensor. It is a one wire switch and not a 3 wire sensor. Once the engines reaches around 6 psi it closes the switch and the ecm takes over and displays oil pressure base on coolant temp, rpm. It does a very good job of mimicking oil pressure. Did the repalcement wiring harness have a three wire connecctor? Mine has a one wire as does the spare harness I have. This a suttle difference between the 01 and 02. Just another reason why years can be tricky.

Edited August 30, 20204 yr by dripley

Yessir I bought a 1 wire sensor and used a 1 wire harness. I always thought it was weird they went to a 1 wire. But I swapped to a 6 speed 02 ecm and cruise and oil pressure are fixed. I’ve almost got all the bugs worked out if this thing! Only thing left is the vacuum lines for cab and axle. I messed up and accidentally pushed the vent line into the cab. I felt behind glove box and found where it goes out of the cab but 1 hour in and no prevail to get it poked back out. Test drive today popped the heater core somehow so I gotta pull the days now anyways!

46 minutes ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

Yessir I bought a 1 wire sensor and used a 1 wire harness. I always thought it was weird they went to a 1 wire. But I swapped to a 6 speed 02 ecm and cruise and oil pressure are fixed. I’ve almost got all the bugs worked out if this thing! Only thing left is the vacuum lines for cab and axle. I messed up and accidentally pushed the vent line into the cab. I felt behind glove box and found where it goes out of the cab but 1 hour in and no prevail to get it poked back out. Test drive today popped the heater core somehow so I gotta pull the days now anyways!

Well that sucks. My vacuum line to the hvac controller failed about a year back. I ran new line off the manifold on the firewall straight thru the dash on drivers side to the controller and it works fine. All functions work but l do always have some air blowing on my feet. That could from the hvac rebuild l did while replacing my dash. Never paid floor any attention except when l had it on floor. I do know my feet are happy the way things are.

I will say if you have the dash out see if that black does run across the hvac box to the controller. I always believed there has to be reason for running it across the fire wall other than just to bring it back to almost where it originates.

I got the dash rolled out and starter working in the heater core and the vacuum line. I haven’t taken the dash completely out of the truck though. I cannot figure out what needs to be unhooked or unbolted and how to get the fuse box to let go of the dash. If I can get it pulled completely out I will pull the HVAC box and go through it. I fixed the vacuum line and heater core fixed. The core was popped at the top. Had a weird hole on the topside of it? Small but not a spot that should have a hole. the vacuum line looks like it goes through the firewall. Is raped to the green recirculate vacuum line and the. Just follows the green line and eventually yellow line before meeting the junction block under the center of the dash. Anyone have insight into how to get the fuse box to stay with the truck and get the dash completely out of the truck? 

6 hours ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

I got the dash rolled out and starter working in the heater core and the vacuum line. I haven’t taken the dash completely out of the truck though. I cannot figure out what needs to be unhooked or unbolted and how to get the fuse box to let go of the dash. If I can get it pulled completely out I will pull the HVAC box and go through it. I fixed the vacuum line and heater core fixed. The core was popped at the top. Had a weird hole on the topside of it? Small but not a spot that should have a hole. the vacuum line looks like it goes through the firewall. Is raped to the green recirculate vacuum line and the. Just follows the green line and eventually yellow line before meeting the junction block under the center of the dash. Anyone have insight into how to get the fuse box to stay with the truck and get the dash completely out of the truck? 

When I did my HVAC box and dash pad I only took it loose on the passenger side and hung it on the grab handle. Mike has an article on that in the articles section. So I cant help you on the fuse box since I did not take mine all the way out.

7 hours ago, Waydin_Stewart said:

Anyone have insight into how to get the fuse box to stay with the truck and get the dash completely out of the truck? 

 

I don't think its possible.

 

You'll have to most likely pull the entire dash. The harness connector is down on the driver side. Once this and the ground wire in the driver side kick panel you should be able to pull it out. Just remember to remove the bottom steel bracket on the dash so it lifts off the steering column. Wiring wise everything unplugs. Now once the dash is out you'll see what is holding the fuse panel better. I've never could figure that one out being I've got huge hands and really tough being up-side-down under the dash trying to get pass all the wiring. 

Edited September 2, 20204 yr by Mopar1973Man

On 9/2/2020 at 6:34 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

I don't think its possible.

 

You'll have to most likely pull the entire dash. The harness connector is down on the driver side. Once this and the ground wire in the driver side kick panel you should be able to pull it out. Just remember to remove the bottom steel bracket on the dash so it lifts off the steering column. Wiring wise everything unplugs. Now once the dash is out you'll see what is holding the fuse panel better. I've never could figure that one out being I've got huge hands and really tough being up-side-down under the dash trying to get pass all the wiring. 

So I can unhook the grounds and main harness from the dash? Or undo the harness from the body and pull with the dash?