Time for new injectors.  My engine load is down to around 2-3% and idle is at 900-950rpm.  My plan is to go with 7x10s and some ARP headstuds but I worry if my truck will be undrivable if my Quad goes out like Mike's recently did.  I know he said his didn't smoke too bad but I believe his turbo flows more air to clean it up.  I have just a stock HX35 with a boost elbow.  I don't want it smoking like a chimney if I have to drive it without the Quad.

 

Thoughts?

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Weird... Idle should be 800 RPM period. I wonder if the crank sensor on your truck is tired? Any other error codes? (If any).The only time this is above 800 RPM is when the APPS switches to THROTTLING then the idle software is shut off. This would cause the high idle. 

 

I've got to ask again another weird one Stock APPS of Timbo's APPS? A bad APPS with the throttle line still grounded would make it idle high and low engine load. Could be a possible an error code for APPS possibly? This is common for someone that has tapered with the voltage. I would replace the APPS with a Timbo APPS but that's me. 

Nope, no error codes.  I never messed with the APPS, its still stock as far as I know.  The idle has come down from where it was before the injector install.  It used to be close to 950 so it has improved.  Is it that big of a deal if its high?

 

I also just replaced the crank sensor on my truck (at least I think it was the crank sensor, the one behind the starter).

Edited October 2, 20204 yr by hdpwipmonkey
added more info

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM.

 

Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

2 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I would consider the APPS because its NOT in idle mode. When in idle mode it ignores the APPS signal and uses the ECM software. Being your APPS is still throttling mode its following the voltage hence why it never reaching 800 RPM.

 

Unplug the APPS it should force ECM idle being no signal is provided. It will trip a code for p0122 again.

OK, I will unplug the APPS and see what it does.  Unplug it then start it or unplug it while its running? 

Unplug and then start. Not good to break connection while powered up. Then shutdown and hook up then clear the codes

Ok, this is after unplugging the APPS.  It still idled at the same rpm.

 

This is after resetting the APPS.  This was also after it was a little warmer too.

 

It may even go lower once it's at full operating temp 

 

Ok another thought do you ever reach 195 to 197°Fworth of coolant? Cold engines will amp up idle. As coolant goes down it adds idle RPM. Might need just a thermostat.

Yeah, I usually run about 195F but it wasn't up to normal operating temp yet.  I just took a quick drive to the store when I got the last screenshot.  I'll see where it idles tomorrow once I get to work.  That is a far enough drive to get it to 195F.

This was after my ride to work last night. 

 

Still high rpms but it wasn't at 195 either.  I did notice it was up over 195 while I was driving then the thermostat must of opened and it dropped down to around 188 then started climbing again. 

I'm going to have to say my gut feeling is your APPS sensor isn't right in calling IDLE mode from the validation switch. I know we unplugged it and checked butt we haven't replaced it to verify your current APPS.

I could buy a Timbo and keep this one for a spare... What's another $200 

 

It does drop to 800 rpm when it's in drive... Does that count? 

Edited October 5, 20204 yr by hdpwipmonkey

Got the headstuds installed today.   Torqued to 40, 80, 125 ft/lbs (as per the instructions from ARP).  That last torque was a killer.  My back is sore again and my shoulders are gonna hurt tomorrow... 

 

Gonna drive it a couple of days then re-torque them and change the oil.

 

Also, I noticed there is not much clearance between the valve cover and the studs in the very front.  Hopefully its sealed.  I imagine its the same for the studs in the very rear also.  I went for a quick drive around the block and didnt see any leaking so fingers crossed 

Edited October 9, 20204 yr by hdpwipmonkey

1 hour ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

That last torque was a killer.  My back is sore again and my shoulders are gonna hurt tomorrow... 

When I replaced my HG I just reused the stock bolts. It was a 3 step process too. I forget the torque numbers and the first two steps were pretty easy. The last step was turn the bolts 90* more. That was a chore as you mention above. 

Edited October 9, 20204 yr by dripley