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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
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Watched the same video but the HVAC case is NOT the same. There is nothing to remove and the duct is much larger and square shaped. EDIT: Yeah I see it now I went back out and
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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features. Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.
I've got to admit that 7.3L engines are fairly straight forward and easy to work on. The glow plugs are under the vavle cover. As for the injectors you need a Allen wrench and remove the oil deverter. Once removed you can use a 8mm wrench on the bolt toward the intake and 8mm socket on bolt towards the exhaust. Once the two bolts are removed you can use a small pry bar to simply lift the injector out of its hole. Things to take note of Ford OEM injector seals are black and aftermarket seal are like orange a light purple color. This biggest thing is being sure your high pressure oil rail is seal and the fuel rail is sealed to prevent crossing of the two fluids or leaking out into the head area or possibly back into the fuel tank. My project truck is 1995 Ford F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. The number 7 injector I didn't find a way to remove as of yet. Number 7 is the rear most injector on the passenger side. It hits the HVAC case and will not pass... I'm hoping some here could tell me the secret on getting that bugger out.
Now Jacob when he get a few extra buck for another set of seals and glow plug we'll move over to the driver side and do the other 4 injectors. We did find number 5 injector was rather carboned over.
IMPORTANT!
Since Ford injectors have booth the high pressure oil and the fuel rail in the head when you pull any injectors the fuel and oil drains instantly in the cylinder. So to prevent engine damage leave the glow plug out and crank it over. When you do make sure to tell everyone to back off. When I barely spun that engine over the oil shot out of #7 glow plug hole and painted the hood black in one big spurt gun. Afterwards I installed the glow plugs and went to start up mode. Being that there is no line to crack or bleed the air out you can just crank till it starts. It's no different than Cummins when it does start there is air in the fuel and oil rail so it knocks and does sound horrid.
After cleaning up tools and taking off for a test run to warm it up. There was a small improvement and smoother running. Being only 3 of 8 were done we are just starting the project.
Q: Does anyone know how to get #7 injectors out of the head without doing something stupid like cutting a hole in the HVAC case?