So after much frustration and $$$ My front end is all squared away and the steering is as it should be. Tie rods, ball joints, Sealed adjustable solid track bar, leveling kit, wearable joints ect. Along with all the interior and body parts replaced. Would like to do control arms to match the 2.5" leveling spacers angle but back to the point on hand... I can finally start spending on the tranny/performance. First off, my Nv4500 is in decent shape, drives very well. But is not brand new anymore... Before I go out and try to find a clutch should I be dropping the tranny and checking everything before thinking about a clutch flywheel or anything else? I read this http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/drivetrain/129_0608_rebuilding_nv4500_transmission/index.html writeup on rebuilds and talked to a guy I know, he said I'd be looking at about $1,500 for rebuild. Plan on making this a 350-400horse daily driver truck could possibly pull a few trailers maybe 5th wheel too. I need to get some suggestions on what I should do to this tranny so that It wont clunk out on me! Haven't lost one yet and would love to keep it that way

the only thing i have read, if you are doing a rebuild, is get a billet input shaft. some of the double disk clutches need a bigger input shaft

350-400HP will be fine. Just get a good clutch that can hold it and you won't have any issues. If you go over that power or do drag racing and crap like that, thats when you need all the bullet stuff. Right now I am between that same 350-400 (hopefully) and all I have done is get a better clutch (13" one) and it has been fine. Just don't pop the clutch or beat it like all these drag racers do and it will last a long time. Mike has the same trans and he has dyno'd at 383HP I think it was and he too has only upgraded the clutch. The only thing I would do is change the oil in it (if you don't know when it was last changed) and maybe check the 5th gear nut out. Oh and my truck has 330k on the original NV4500 build and is fine.

Yeap I ran the Dyno at 381/826 and 379/831 back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, BHAF and striaght pipe exhaust. But now I've got RV275 injectors and I know I'm eith at or just crossing the 400 HP mark. The only thing you'll find is the stock clutch will begin to slip at the 380-400 HP to the ground mark. So I up grade to South Bend Con OFE single disk clutch and hold tight even hauling 2 cords of firewood up hill. Stay after you fluid changes... Yeah I know the stuff is expensive but it cheap insureance for keeping the transmission happy. Crossing 175K miles and never had a issue with the trans yet... (NV4500) 200K here I come!

the only thing i have read, if you are doing a rebuild, is get a billet input shaft. some of the double disk clutches need a bigger input shaft

I am skeptical about doing a rebuild as far as money, time and experience with transmissions go. I am not a transmission tech by any means, I'm sure I could handle a nv4500 with some good direction though. I think I am going to go with a 13" single. Long as it's 400 peak and decent drive-ability. Any brand model ideas?

If you are looking for control arms for the 2.5 inch change in height look at these: http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3870

350-400HP will be fine. Just get a good clutch that can hold it and you won't have any issues. If you go over that power or do drag racing and crap like that, thats when you need all the bullet stuff. Right now I am between that same 350-400 (hopefully) and all I have done is get a better clutch (13" one) and it has been fine. Just don't pop the clutch or beat it like all these drag racers do and it will last a long time. Mike has the same trans and he has dyno'd at 383HP I think it was and he too has only upgraded the clutch. The only thing I would do is change the oil in it (if you don't know when it was last changed) and maybe check the 5th gear nut out. Oh and my truck has 330k on the original NV4500 build and is fine.

I am just hoping there is no internal components that are worn to far. I wont be doing anything reckless until I have a spare truck anyway . Mine is at 237k and so far the tranny is the only thing I've yet to replace fluid in. That will be done this weekend for sure.

Yeap I ran the Dyno at 381/826 and 379/831 back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, BHAF and striaght pipe exhaust. But now I've got RV275 injectors and I know I'm eith at or just crossing the 400 HP mark. The only thing you'll find is the stock clutch will begin to slip at the 380-400 HP to the ground mark. So I up grade to South Bend Con OFE single disk clutch and hold tight even hauling 2 cords of firewood up hill. Stay after you fluid changes... Yeah I know the stuff is expensive but it cheap insureance for keeping the transmission happy. Crossing 175K miles and never had a issue with the trans yet... (NV4500) 200K here I come!

Ha must be nice to plug and Southbend or Valair are looking like the two most promising as well as affordable companies. Does anyone have the exact fill amount for the tranny fluid, because I hear there are a few variables that can change that. Any word on that?

It takes 4 quarts of the liquid gold.

Does anyone have a good link for some tranny fluids? Cheapest I found was 4 quarts for 54 bucks.Liquid Gold is right.

i've only gone to the stealership...@~$23 a qt.please post where you found 4qts for $54

i've only gone to the stealership...@~$23 a qt. please post where you found 4qts for $54

This isn't a MOPAR product, I repeat NOT mopar but this is direct from the Amsoil site, if you insist on running mopar lube it'll be 23 still: http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=213

That stuff made my trans grind like crazy in 4th from 1000-1500RPM. No clue why. I have heard a lot of reviews on how smooth the redline stuff made it, that will be my next choice of oil.

That stuff made my trans grind like crazy in 4th from 1000-1500RPM. No clue why. I have heard a lot of reviews on how smooth the redline stuff made it, that will be my next choice of oil.

I have heard a few guys talk about running this. What is the advantage? Besides the fact that it's 10 bucks cheaper, which is nice. I've also read a lot that, changing the oil weight from Mopar part # 4874459 75W-80, to 75W-90 has a negative effect on the Carbon fiber synchros? They are not actually brass they're bass stamp stainless steel on the nv4500.

--- Update to the previous post...

If you are looking for control arms for the 2.5 inch change in height look at these: http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3870

I somehow missed this post in the bustle of replying, I just checked out the thread and those look extremely nice and well done. I know a local guy who does some real good fabrication work for these trucks I don't know how much he charges though. 275 is a good deal. I want some

The biggest problem with the NV4500 is fifth gear falling off. The Torque King shaft is built to prevent/ fix this problem. Other than that it just depends on how it was treated. If it was drove right and not abused then I wouldn't worry about it. I really like my Valair Kevlar/Ceramic single disc and got a good deal from Dan at Valair!:thumbup2:As far as fluid goes, I'm running Royal Purple myself. It can be found at just about any auto parts store and cost about $15 a quart!!!

How many miles have you been running the royal purple? Just curious. And, what does everyone recommend as far as flywheel and pressure plate?I think I will be going with A Valair clutch as of right now, single disc most likely.I have never had any issues with losing fifth gear or even driving in fifth gear. In fact once in gear, fifth runs just as good if not better than any or all the other gears. The only thing that kind of bugs me with my 5th is: While in Neutral (or just not moving) the gear shifter will not go into fifth at all. When I am driving and shift into 5th it works ok, still doesn't feel all that smooth though. What does this sound like?And, as for the Torque King I would have already ordered mine if I had the extra cash or knew I was going to drop the tranny at all. So far I can't afford either :banghead:

How many miles have you been running the royal purple? Just curious. And, what does everyone recommend as far as flywheel and pressure plate? I think I will be going with A Valair clutch as of right now, single disc most likely. I have never had any issues with losing fifth gear or even driving in fifth gear. In fact once in gear, fifth runs just as good if not better than any or all the other gears. The only thing that kind of bugs me with my 5th is: While in Neutral (or just not moving) the gear shifter will not go into fifth at all. When I am driving and shift into 5th it works ok, still doesn't feel all that smooth though. What does this sound like? And, as for the Torque King I would have already ordered mine if I had the extra cash or knew I was going to drop the tranny at all. So far I can't afford either :banghead:

I made an article on the 5th gear nut. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm It really isn't that big of deal. I have been just tightening it back up every time it falls off. Mine doesn't pop into 5th instantly either, I just push it into the slot and wait for the synchros to catch up and it falls in. My nut has come off 3 times (4 if you count that article since it was loose there too). I might weld it one of these days but you can prevent it by just never driving it under 1800 or so. Lugging it kind of hammers (like an air impact) the nut off. I actually never had any issues until I said screw it and drove with it down to 1400 RPM and pretty well just left it at that speed all the way through town. The nut fell off shortly after I started doing that. I never stopped doing it though, let it fall off, I love driving through town at low rpm's If you have a 4wd, I would keep it over 1800..., I can fix that nut in half an hour on my 2wd.

How many miles have you been running the royal purple? Just curious. And, what does everyone recommend as far as flywheel and pressure plate? I think I will be going with A Valair clutch as of right now, single disc most likely. I have never had any issues with losing fifth gear or even driving in fifth gear. In fact once in gear, fifth runs just as good if not better than any or all the other gears. The only thing that kind of bugs me with my 5th is: While in Neutral (or just not moving) the gear shifter will not go into fifth at all. When I am driving and shift into 5th it works ok, still doesn't feel all that smooth though. What does this sound like? And, as for the Torque King I would have already ordered mine if I had the extra cash or knew I was going to drop the tranny at all. So far I can't afford either :banghead:

I've been running it since 10/15/09 at 215,775 miles. I now have around 230,600ish and it is working good so far! As far as fifth gear, I've not had the problem yet but you never know. If I ever do have the problem I'll figure out a way to afford the Torque King b/c I don't like things breaking!!

I made an article on the 5th gear nut. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/5th-gear/5th-gear.htm It really isn't that big of deal. I have been just tightening it back up every time it falls off. Mine doesn't pop into 5th instantly either, I just push it into the slot and wait for the synchros to catch up and it falls in. My nut has come off 3 times (4 if you count that article since it was loose there too). I might weld it one of these days but you can prevent it by just never driving it under 1800 or so. Lugging it kind of hammers (like an air impact) the nut off. I actually never had any issues until I said screw it and drove with it down to 1400 RPM and pretty well just left it at that speed all the way through town. The nut fell off shortly after I started doing that. I never stopped doing it though, let it fall off, I love driving through town at low rpm's If you have a 4wd, I would keep it over 1800..., I can fix that nut in half an hour on my 2wd.

Mmm I see what you're saying about it being like an air hammer on the nut. Why would welding be the only other option? A good thread locker and maybe something beyond the nut to keep it from coming off? I'm sure this has already been thought of over and over though. I am gonna read that article tonight and find out a little bit more, because On my nv4500 and my getrag I have never had any issues with 5th. Personally I really want to get to get my transmission gone through but am scared I wont be able to tackle it, once it's dropped and open on a bench in front of me. On the other had though, $1,500 doesn't seem that expensive in the long run. I will have so much money in this truck just to get it back to stock factory reliability, before i start my real build. Mine is 4wd and I try not to but will admit I have had it under 2k a lot thinking about getting that perfect 45-50mph economy. For the most part though it is more high end 5th gear. You said you can fix you're 2wd nut in half an hour, is this with tranny knowledge or just working on your own? And, how much different is the 4wd as far as the fifth nut goes? I am interested in trying to tighten mine.

I've been running it since 10/15/09 at 215,775 miles. I now have around 230,600ish and it is working good so far! As far as fifth gear, I've not had the problem yet but you never know. If I ever do have the problem I'll figure out a way to afford the Torque King b/c I don't like things breaking!!

Hmm that is interesting, I have not really heard much about the purple besides people are running it more and more. And, trust me I am NOT interesting in anything breaking either ha It is definitely well worth the money, just have to take care of some other expensive parts first.

On mine you just take the tailshaft off and it is the big nut hanging off, you will see it in the article. I have done it twice now and it is really easy. 4wd have to take the whole transfer case off though. There are a ton of options but the only ones that seems to last are extreme stuff like Tig welding. I heard some good things about cotter pins. Mine has a split nut on it and you tighten it then you tighten the split halves so it "clamps" the nut more. Obviously doesn't work but o well. The hammering knocks anything loose, that is why it has to be something extreme. You can't really take the tranny apart if you do weld it though, that is one reason I just tighten it back up and call it good. If I had a 4wd, it probably would have been welded by now.

On mine you just take the tailshaft off and it is the big nut hanging off, you will see it in the article. I have done it twice now and it is really easy. 4wd have to take the whole transfer case off though. There are a ton of options but the only ones that seems to last are extreme stuff like Tig welding. I heard some good things about cotter pins. Mine has a split nut on it and you tighten it then you tighten the split halves so it "clamps" the nut more. Obviously doesn't work but o well. The hammering knocks anything loose, that is why it has to be something extreme. You can't really take the tranny apart if you do weld it though, that is one reason I just tighten it back up and call it good. If I had a 4wd, it probably would have been welded by now.

Oh OK I understand what you're speaking of now. I could see how cotter pins would work good in that situation then. Drilling and replacing with a castle style nut? I just feel like when people talk about tig welding the nut on there has got to be a better way, but from what it sounds like. It may not be to bad.

Oh OK I understand what you're speaking of now. I could see how cotter pins would work good in that situation then. Drilling and replacing with a castle style nut? I just feel like when people talk about tig welding the nut on there has got to be a better way, but from what it sounds like. It may not be to bad.

If you read on the Torque King site they explain what the real problem is. It is the spines themselves that let the nut fall off. People done all sorts of fixes but the Torque King IMO would be the best...But most expensive.