I'm staring to feel a vibration from the differential when starting from a dead stop, especially when turning a corner, thinking my Trac-Loc is done, anyone ever R&R that carrier? I figure since there's no problem in the ring gear/pinion gear wear pattern, I should be able the replace those clutches with just pulling the axles (3500) non-weight bearing on the axles, just make sure I put back any shims that might be under the carrier bolts. Don't think I would have to even mess with pinion. Any thoughts? If I remember right when both wheels are off the ground,when a wheel is rotated both wheels should spin in same direction,right?

Edited December 28, 20204 yr by Blueox01

26 minutes ago, Royal Squire said:

Where did you get the springs and how expensive are they?

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

Originally $650  but with shipping during holidays still under $700

@Blueox01 I did order one of the Benz Force turbos, but delivery isn't until possibly early March! All to save a few bucks, I did the pre-order deal.

7 hours ago, Blueox01 said:

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

Originally $650  but with shipping during holidays still under $700

 

 

Did you get new u-bolts, if so, what size? What part number springs? The 34-1335HD appear to be what you have? Six leaf v/s oem 4 leaf. They are $225 each. Let us know how the ride is. They look beefy.

 

I went with 5/8's when I worked on my suspension. The original are kinda undersized and were rotten where they passed through the bottom axle clamp. It is a catch all for mud/water.

 

 

 

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/1994-2002-dodge-ram-2500/3500-2wd-8800-gvw-and-greater-heavy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-34-1335hd/

9 hours ago, LorenS said:

 So, she got new carrier bearings today, too.

All in all pretty simple. Would've been fast, 

 

 

Did you check/replace pinion bearings too/seal? How was your bearing preload and back lash numbers?

Edited December 30, 20204 yr by NIsaacs
add info/picture

5 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

Did you check/replace pinion bearings too/seal? How was your bearing preload and back lash numbers?

Nope. Just reused the shims that were there on the carrier bearings. Bearings weren't on the agenda yesterday, but tracked down two when it fell out of the truck and there was severe putting on the rollers.  No pinion seal leak so left it alone.

50 minutes ago, LorenS said:

Nope. 

 

 

That's why it was simple and quick....

The actual changing of the clutches and carrier guts shouldn't require the setting of backlash.

 

Changing the bearings like I did, sure all that other should be done and checked. However, changing bearings is not what Blueox01 is considering.

 

If my bearings weren't absolute trash I would've put it all back together and taken it to "a guy" to do that amount of work! My bearing literally fell apart in the Parts washer, so it had to be changed!

 

2 hours ago, LorenS said:

The actual changing of the clutches and carrier guts shouldn't require the setting of backlash.

 

 

 

Yes, I indicated that it was a straight forward repair until you get into bearings and shims. That's when it becomes complex, difficult and time consuming.

 

New carrier bearings need bearing preload checked, you can't do that without pulling the pinion out. Now you have more bearings and shims to deal with. It is a domino effect.

 

Bearings can be run slightly loose, but not over tight at all. Without knowing.....is my point.

 

Wow, that bearing was toast. Makes you wonder now, huh?

 

  

I figure bearing manufacturers have their tolerances down pat, the shims are for the differences between differentials. Same brand went in that came out. Considering we didn't need a spread to put it back in, I'd say if anything it's loose.

 

I know the previous owner abused the truck, he basically told me as much. I figured I'd be driving this truck 800 miles per year so I really didn't care, now it's closer 30k miles per year so things are getting changed when time allows.

 

I'm guessing Blueox01 wouldn't run into the same problem I did, hence saying it was quick and easy. Changing carrier bearings the right way clearly would not be either!

Just a note for all of you rebuilding your TracLoks.  Match mark the case halves as the bearing mounts are machined with the unit assembled.  Also match mark any parts to be reused (internals don't like to be rearranged).  The close up is of a factory paint match mark and the overall shows match marking for reassembly.  Hope this helps.

12 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

 

 

Did you get new u-bolts, if so, what size? What part number springs? The 34-1335HD appear to be what you have? Six leaf v/s oem 4 leaf. They are $225 each. Let us know how the ride is. They look beefy.

 

I went with 5/8's when I worked on my suspension. The original are kinda undersized and were rotten where they passed through the bottom axle clamp. It is a catch all for mud/water.

 

 

 

https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/1994-2002-dodge-ram-2500/3500-2wd-8800-gvw-and-greater-heavy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-34-1335hd/

 

 

Did you check/replace pinion bearings too/seal? How was your bearing preload and back lash numbers?

Yes, 34-1335HD. Came with everything but rear Shackles, got them locally(wish I would have ordered them) 5/8 U-bolts 12 1/2", Eye bolts ,nuts

5 hours ago, LorenS said:

The actual changing of the clutches and carrier guts shouldn't require the setting of backlash.

 

Changing the bearings like I did, sure all that other should be done and checked. However, changing bearings is not what Blueox01 is considering.

 

If my bearings weren't absolute trash I would've put it all back together and taken it to "a guy" to do that amount of work! My bearing literally fell apart in the Parts washer, so it had to be changed!

 

Didn't you have a problem that cause you to tear into this? Noise, Chatter?

Edited December 30, 20204 yr by Blueox01

I had a hell of a lot of backlash since the day I bought it almost 60k miles ago. When I had the rear cover off 40k miles ago, or thereabouts, ol' dad gave it a quick inspection and showed me how much of the slop was in the spiders and side gears. In the last 5k miles everything got a lot worse and I had already ordered the carrier guts so decided to install before the new year.  I'm also a big fan of the LSD, whether gear or clutch type, and I would get "stuck" on wet grass unless I engaged 4WD.

 

Turns out the "Lot Worse" must have been the carrier bearings! Perhaps someday my not setting preload and backlash will lead to "Even Worse", but I'm skeptical of that. First, I rarely haul or tow and even then it's generally light - a Massey Ferguson 135 may be the heaviest thing so far. Second, the tolerance on Timken or SKF bearings is pretty good and I reinstalled the same shims in the same locations.

 

Time and mileage will tell.

8 hours ago, Joe_Pool said:

Just a note for all of you rebuilding your TracLoks

Good advice. As another note, beware that there are two different torque specs for those carrier bolts, and if you don't turn the page ('01 FSM) you'd never know! It's higher for bolts with special markings, which mine had, so I torqued them in 3 passes.