Hey all. So, truck runs on one battery due to previous owner making their own compounds in the garage and putting them in and deleting the battery. I'm wanting to get 2 fresh batteries and do everything back the right way (and sadly may buy all new cables for 300). I'm wandering if anyone has a diagram that will show every ground and wire I need coming off the passenger side battery? Also, is there some sort of isolator or something that may be removed? If not removed but disconnected, where would it be? Any suggestions are appreciated so I can get this done correctly! Haven't had issues starting her in 25 * with no grid heater or plug but I want the truck done right and also maybe fix electrical issues she may have due to changing grounds around...

 

Thank you!

Dylan

There is a wiring diagram in the article section. I can take a picture of under my hood if you'd like.

 

I bought this for my cable...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-AWG-WELDING-CABLE-WIRE-RED-BLACK-GAUGE-COPPER-WIRE-BATTERY-SOLAR-LEADS-/261598258441?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

These for ends...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-Military-Battery-Terminals-USA-MADE-For-Off-Road-Vehicles-/192157697042?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

These to hook the two together...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-AWG-BATTERY-CABLE-3-8-TUBULAR-LUG-RING-EYE-TERMINALS-15-PER-PACKAGE-/263834135774?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

I tinned the cable ends, filled the connector ends with solder, and shoved the cable in. Made my cables a bit long so if the ends come loose I can cut them back and invest in a crimper.

 

 

P.S. Don't forget the shrink tubing....(don't ask)

 

31 minutes ago, Max Tune said:

There is a wiring diagram in the article section. I can take a picture of under my hood if you'd like.

 

I bought this for my cable...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-AWG-WELDING-CABLE-WIRE-RED-BLACK-GAUGE-COPPER-WIRE-BATTERY-SOLAR-LEADS-/261598258441?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

These for ends...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-Military-Battery-Terminals-USA-MADE-For-Off-Road-Vehicles-/192157697042?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

These to hook the two together...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-0-AWG-BATTERY-CABLE-3-8-TUBULAR-LUG-RING-EYE-TERMINALS-15-PER-PACKAGE-/263834135774?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

I tinned the cable ends, filled the connector ends with solder, and shoved the cable in. Made my cables a bit long so if the ends come loose I can cut them back and invest in a crimper.

 

 

P.S. Don't forget the shrink tubing....(don't ask)

 

Wow, this is great! Thank you so much for this. I may just go this route! How many feet of each did you purchase? Also, did you replace every single battery cable?

Bought 20' of cable, 50-50 black red. Battery to battery took a little more than half, but still had enough for battery to starter. Both grounds from battery to block only used about half of black cable. If you order those military type battery clamps, be aware, there are five each neg/pos. Positive has the bigger post. Just something to pay attention to when building the cables.

2 hours ago, Max Tune said:

Bought 20' of cable, 50-50 black red. Battery to battery took a little more than half, but still had enough for battery to starter. Both grounds from battery to block only used about half of black cable. If you order those military type battery clamps, be aware, there are five each neg/pos. Positive has the bigger post. Just something to pay attention to when building the cables.

Thanks for this. Didn't realize the battery posts have different diameters. Thought they were both the same.

 

Is there a battery isolator or anything specific for charging or to prevent over charging? I believe he 3rd gens and up have something but I may be mistaken. 

The charging is controlled by the PCM on the passenger side firewall. When you get ready to add your battery, or even before, you should do the W-T ground mod and the PCM fuse mod. There should be dedicated articles on how to in the article section. Also, when you put your second battery in, they are connected in parallel, not series. You may already know this, but I'd rather give too much info rather than have you hurt something. Did all the wiring for the second battery get removed, or is it still there?

The crossover and negative are still there in some capacity. I'm more concerns of what ground and wires were on that passenger side battery... Also, the crossover goes from positive to positive and each negative goes to ground or whatever? I feel stupid asking (especially since I took AC/DC theory in MOS school lmfao) but in all honesty electricity spooks me and I am not confident at all when hooking **** up hahaha. I'd rather be spoon fed info in regards to it all.

Here's a pic of my passenger battery.

Yellow connector is ground for air horn pump. Next to that is a ground to inner fender. Attached just in front of air intake hole. Opposite of those is a factory double ground. One went over the radiator and was cut off when W-T mod was done. I left the pigtail taped up in case I needed a future ground. The other runs along the fender to the loom where the PCM connections are. Don't know where it goes from there.

The main ground is bolted to the block just rear of where the turbo drain goes into engine. There is a threaded hole for it.

Positive side is the crossover to driver's battery, which is now the only thing going over my radiator now. The red wire is power for air horn pump. Other wire is fused feed from alternator.

Then there are some of us still got our factory battery terminals, no corrosion, and in good condition yet. Tell you the trick keep all exposed metals coated with engine oil. This includes battery hold down hardware. 

Yep, learned the oil trick here, along with everything else I know about my truck....👍👍👍

My cable ends were really bad. When I cut them off the cable itself looked black, so I decided to change it all.

Best answer. Seriously I've seen people cut the old end off leave the black oxidation on the copper and hook up new terminals (crappy 2 bolt clamp style). 

Need to replace mine, the factory ends were overtightened at some point and severely deformed the ends. That, age and 6 owners before me has taken its toll on my cables. The insulation is starting to pull away from the terminal leaving wires exposed and turning green and black as well.. 

 

Probably going to buy a set because I don't have the tools or experience to make my own. Was going to go with either ceautoelectricsupply.com or custombatterycables.com for mine. Might get a set pre-setup for the W-T mod as well.

 

 

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/gen-2-dodge-diesel-truck-battery-cable-kits/

 

https://www.custombatterycables.com/dodge-ram-cummins-1998-2002/  been a while since i checked the prices, $80 more expensive than the CE auto electric one of the same size..

Biggest thing is buying the cable that is expensive.