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Hi, I was woundering if anyone can help me diagnose a oil leak it started after I had my vp44 replaced on a 2000 5.9. It is just pouring oil out fromm some where on the front of the motor on the drivers side I have tried cleaning the motor to see where it’s coming from. I have already replaced the front seal the crank seal and I have rebuilt the vac pump. I looked around the vp44 checking for a leak but it is dry all the way around is there something I am missing. Thank you  

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  • DeepEastTexas2Gen
    DeepEastTexas2Gen

    My experience with oil leaking on the driver side of the engine sounds like your story. PULL THE VP, vacuum pump & steering pump. INSPECT the tappet cover & the plate that seals the old mechan

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    I just use the standard front crank seal on mine. No nee for sealants or anything just tap the seal into the cover and then install the gear case cover with grey RTV sealant. If you have a bad groove

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Some stuff I work on can be done 1000's of hours work with no speedy sleeve available or the machine needs to work "NOW"..... always the same with owners/operators it could have sat idle for weeks but as soon field service arrive to start a job it's needed yesterday

if no sleeve available or no time to wait to get one just instal the seal at a slightly different depth to where the old one was thus placing the seal lips both dust and oil in a slightly different place, most successful I did was an old Cat D8 dozer on a power station coal pile, the owners guys couldn't get the crank pulley nut undone so a huge pair of stilsons facing backwards over the crank damper and a 5ft breaker bar, once the damper is out of the way the crank was badly scored but luckily the timing cover was ally and had just a long bore for the seal with no counterbore to set the seal against, just measured with a DTI where the old one sat and set the new one different but the same all the way round.

 

On my timing cover I used black RTV

 

Don't forget to check the dowel pin when you take the timing cover off if you didn't last time

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15 hours ago, wil440 said:

Some stuff I work on can be done 1000's of hours work with no speedy sleeve available or the machine needs to work "NOW"..... always the same with owners/operators it could have sat idle for weeks but as soon field service arrive to start a job it's needed yesterday

if no sleeve available or no time to wait to get one just instal the seal at a slightly different depth to where the old one was thus placing the seal lips both dust and oil in a slightly different place, most successful I did was an old Cat D8 dozer on a power station coal pile, the owners guys couldn't get the crank pulley nut undone so a huge pair of stilsons facing backwards over the crank damper and a 5ft breaker bar, once the damper is out of the way the crank was badly scored but luckily the timing cover was ally and had just a long bore for the seal with no counterbore to set the seal against, just measured with a DTI where the old one sat and set the new one different but the same all the way round.

 

On my timing cover I used black RTV

 

Don't forget to check the dowel pin when you take the timing cover off if you didn't last time

Okay sounds good will do. I did check the dowel pin and it looked okay it didn’t back out any. Any recommendations on what to do with the dowel pin 

7 hours ago, connors said:

Okay sounds good will do. I did check the dowel pin and it looked okay it didn’t back out any. Any recommendations on what to do with the dowel pin

I just got a large penny washer trimmed it so it would fit.... it needs to be a bit egg shaped, there is a bolt right next to the dowel pin just remove the bolt and put the penny washer on it so it covers the dowel pin to stop it coming out, while you are in there check the torque on the timing case bolts, 3 or 4 of mine were loose I can't remember the torque on those though