So yesterday morning I went to start my dodge for the first time in over a week. Let the grid heater cycle 2 times and tried to start it.  Wouldn't start so I unhooked the quad from the battery but not the map (forgot that part). Jumped the truck and had a cel. Drove to my brother's next door to change the turbo. Got that done and went for a drive. Had zero boost checked the cel and it was a p0238, 0236. 

Unhooked the quad at the plug, left the quad map sensor is plugged and same results.  Drove like a turd and no boost. (Limp mode if I can describe it).  

Did I fry the map or the quad?  Should I unhook the quad map sensor and plug in the factory one?   

 

Thanks! 

Grounds look good, connectors look good. Positive battery post on driver's side has some corrosion I'm going to fix that tomorrow. Idk what else to check I don't wanna waste money on a map but I think I'm going to do so. Any other thoughts?

Can try removing MAP sensor, reconnect wiring, start truck (or at least ignition switch to ON), apply small pressure via air compressor, see if Adrenaline (or OBD reader, etc.)registers the pressure.

 

I do not know if the sensor is grounded through the sensor body. Connect ground via jumper wire, or lookup in the wiring diagrams.

It sounds like a MAP sensor to me based on it having both high and low voltage codes at the same time.  If you removed the quad out of the system and plug in the MAP as it should be stock and you are getting codes then it's not a quad issue.  I'm leaning towards MAP sensor.  In the articles section for the codes there are tests you can do for the different codes. 

Test MAP sensor

1. Remove MAP sensor.
2. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test orange wire at pin A of MAP sensor for 5 volts.
3. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test black with light blue tracer wire at pin B of MAP sensor for ground.  Reading should be 0.0-0.10 volts.
4.  With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test gray with red tracer wire at pin C of MAP sensor.  Take voltage reading with no air pressure applied to end of MAP and record reading.  Next apply air pressure to end of MAP sensor and record reading; there should be a change in voltage. 

 

Grounding of the MAP sensor is provided at terminal #11 at the ECM.

5-volt reference comes from terminal #10 at the ECM.

The sensor signal voltage is sent to terminal 8 at the ECM.

1 hour ago, LorenS said:

Can try removing MAP sensor, reconnect wiring, start truck (or at least ignition switch to ON), apply small pressure via air compressor, see if Adrenaline (or OBD reader, etc.)registers the pressure.

 

I do not know if the sensor is grounded through the sensor body. Connect ground via jumper wire, or lookup in the wiring diagrams.

Good thinking!  I'll try that!

25 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

Test MAP sensor

1. Remove MAP sensor.
2. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test orange wire at pin A of MAP sensor for 5 volts.
3. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test black with light blue tracer wire at pin B of MAP sensor for ground.  Reading should be 0.0-0.10 volts.
4.  With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test gray with red tracer wire at pin C of MAP sensor.  Take voltage reading with no air pressure applied to end of MAP and record reading.  Next apply air pressure to end of MAP sensor and record reading; there should be a change in voltage. 

 

Grounding of the MAP sensor is provided at terminal #11 at the ECM.

5-volt reference comes from terminal #10 at the ECM.

The sensor signal voltage is sent to terminal 8 at the ECM.

Thank you!

45 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

It sounds like a MAP sensor to me based on it having both high and low voltage codes at the same time.  If you removed the quad out of the system and plug in the MAP as it should be stock and you are getting codes then it's not a quad issue.  I'm leaning towards MAP sensor.  In the articles section for the codes there are tests you can do for the different codes. 

I was thinking so as well.  It's just showing the p0237 now. But I think it's because the map is done for. I'm gonna run those test tmw tho.

@IBMobileif I unhook the map sensor connectors from the quad as well as a disconnect the main plug from the quadzilla module That should be the same thing as unhooking all the wires from the batteries and the date link correct? This should rule out the quadzilla being the issue?

21 minutes ago, Unreal Summit said:

This should rule out the quadzilla being the issue?

You would think it would, but I haven't delt with how a Quadzilla is installed and what other sensors are tapped into to make it work. 

The 5-volt reference from terminal #11 is also used by the oil pressure sensor and the grounding terminal #11 at the ECM is also used for the oil pressure sensor, air intake temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the water in fuel sensor. 

23 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

You would think it would, but I haven't delt with how a Quadzilla is installed and what other sensors are tapped into to make it work. 

The 5-volt reference from terminal #11 is also used by the oil pressure sensor and the grounding terminal #11 at the ECM is also used for the oil pressure sensor, air intake temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the water in fuel sensor. 

Understood. All the others are working as they should.  I got a map sensor on the way now. Gonna try it when it gets here.  Thank y'all! I'll update when i get it in.

@Mopar1973Man or anyone else,

can you help me understand for the future how not unplugging the map sensor while jump starting could effect the quadzilla or map sensor? I had the battery cables disconnected but not the map.  Also will unhooking the quadzilla module be sufficient for jumping the next time? 

Funny... In all the years of my Quadzilla being on my truck I've NEVER unhooked for jump starting any vehicles. Never had any failures of the Quadzilla. 

 

Now as for the boost issue is there any error codes like P0237 or P0238? If yes then unhook the Quadzilla and clear the codes. Now does the code return? If it does return then the MAP sensor or wiring is the cause. If not the the boost fooler of the Quadzilla failed. 

 

Just for info... Currently my tune for +150 HP injectors and stock HX35W turbo I'm now running 0 to 1 PSI of boost at 55 MPH. At 65 MPH it barely floats 2 PSI to 3 PSI.

 

 

 

Unhooked the quadzilla and code comes back as soon as I start the truck p0237. Got a new map on the way. It was stuck at 12 a few times before. 

I hope to get my tune as close to good as yours is. 

 

I simply unplugged the quad module and unplugged the quadzilla map and plugged in the stick is that sufficient to test?

20 minutes ago, Unreal Summit said:

I simply unplugged the quad module and unplugged the quadzilla map and plugged in the stick is that sufficient to test?

As long as the ECM plug is plugged directly into the MAP sensor that is valid test. 

Thank you

It was the map sensor. This 60/67/12 made a big difference! Man oh man! Next question @Mopar1973Man does the defuel setting in the quadzilla work for the boost pressure limit or will it let the turbo spike up then defuel?

9 minutes ago, Unreal Summit said:

Next question @Mopar1973Man does the defuel setting in the quadzilla work for the boost pressure limit or will it let the turbo spike up then defuel?

 

It could but, I wouldn't trust it fully. If you can spool fast its possible to blow past the limit briefly before the defuel limit kicks in. Just depends on how slow your acceleration then it will lean right up against it and defuel slowly. This is my experience on Beast... All I can say is try it and see how it works out. 

Thank you. I drove it tonight and got on it a little and the quad showed 20 then spike to 47 then back down. Didn't know if this was accurate or what.  Got head studs to do next so I am gonna turn it down and drive it. 

Myself I typically run Level 2 on the Quadzilla being with +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar) that more than enough power for daily driver use. Level 3 is more or less like my Sport Street mode. I don't really use the wire tap but to show off to clients. That typically will push them back in the seat and you see the "Oh chit" face come, I just smile. 

 

Now with my current tune, I'm greatly defuled on the low boost realm. Way better snow and ice performance. 

Yeah that's what I'm gonna have to do!  It was amazing the power it had tonight compared to the little hy35.  Man oh man.  Do you still work on tunes?

2 minutes ago, Unreal Summit said:

Do you still work on tunes?

Yes Sir. I'm willing to work for you at a $100 a tune and give you unlimited updates for 30 days. We could get together on the phone gather up info make a base tune. Let you test drive call me back and we will produce a update tune. All the progress will be saved in the Download file and show all the progress so we can back up to a previous if needed.

 

Let me know we can build tunes. 

Awesome thanks man!! 

Guessing the boost spike shouldn't have hurt anything still not good

12 hours ago, Unreal Summit said:

Guessing the boost spike shouldn't have hurt anything still not good

Your statement is correct.  For further information on the subject, keep in mind the MAP sensor isn't too accurate above a certain level. I do not know that level, but I believe I read on this site it's somewhere in the 20's.  A true boost gauge would be needed for more accurate readings.