2000 dodge ram 5.9 cummins, manual trans, stock except the air cleaner. Starts and runs fine 99.9% of the time and then 4 times in the last couple months it cranks but will not start. Put the tow rope on it in third gear let out clutch fires right up and runs good. I put new batteries,new ign.switch. There are no codes. You don't know when it will do it again until it happens. The fuel pressure is 10 to12 psi. It started this since it got cold this winter. I live in AK. Any ideas. Thanks 3 of the times the engine was farely cold once the truck was hot shut off for fifteen minutes and come back wouldn't start. Thanks

The fuel pressure is 10 to12 psi.

At idle or at wide open throttle? Seem you got a air leak possible? Old school trick is to park nose down and see if it start easier. Compared to nose up (drain back).

At idle 12 psi and curiesing the high way 10 at wide open slightly less. I do not have a place to park down hill and I never know when it will happen again. In the last two to three months it has happend four times. Yesterday I drove to the dentise came out 2 hours later and it would not start. I managed to push it out by hand down a hill let the clutch out and started right up.

Fuel pressure is rather marginal... You might want to double check all you electrical...

Just a thought but how is the truck parked when it fails to start? Is it on a hill?

I would suggest changing the fuel filter and then observe if your fuel pressure notably improves. If not, you should replace the lift pump. The pump you have currently is below acceptable minimums especially with a new filter. If you are going to stick with an OEM style pump, get the Airtex 7153 lift pump. It is a direct drop in replacement and will perform MUCH better than the Carter pumps as well as last MUCH longer. The best solution is to install an Air Dog or FASS but if you are staying stock the Airtex will work just fine as long as you carefully monitor the fuel pressure. I installed an Airtex on the wife's truck and it has worked well. Anytime the fuel pressure drops below 12 psi with normal operation or starts to get close, I replace the fuel filter and the pressure comes right back up to around 18-19 psi at idle. Typical driving working pressures run between 18 down 12 psi on a hard pull with a new filter. I use the Baldwin PF7977 fuel filters which are 5 micron and stop up faster but do a good job on clean fuel to the VP44.

Over the weekend I strated the truck to let it warm before making a run to the store. When it started the fuel pressure was a 12 idling. I came back out 1/2 hour later got it to go and the fuel pressure was a 3 psi. whoa. I pulled it in the shop and changed the lift pump as I had a spare stock pump from NAPA. I did the flow test on it and it pumped only 24 oz's in the 20 second run cycle. I thought I read they were to pump 48 oz. Question when changing out the return fuel line are you just clamping the hose to the end of the quik disconect and to the steel at the frame. I had a couple drops of fuel where the plastic meets the steel at the frame.

I had a intermit problem like this also, it turned out to be a cracked fuse on the engine fuse inside the cab. Worth a shot to change the fuse.Posted from my mobile phone while not driving....

I had a intermit problem like this also, it turned out to be a cracked fuse on the engine fuse inside the cab. Worth a shot to change the fuse. Posted from my mobile phone while not driving....

I've heard of this issue a bunch... I've seen starter solenoid fuses do the same thing and crack. It might crack for a few second and quit. Then wait and it works again because as the fuse cools it makes connection again then under load it seperates... Tough one to chase at times...

I will check the fuses. Also I noticed that twice while cranking on it, that it did not start untill I let go of the key. I am wondering if the starter is drawing the voltage down to far to fire the computor. Not sure how much it take to keep the computor on line. I did a starter draw test on the vehicle and I saw numbers from 800 to 230 amps with several tries. and the battery voltage getting down into the 10 volts. I am thinking when I let go of the key the starter quits drawing and the voltage comes back up while the engine is still spining and it starts. That might be the reason that it starts when I tow it the starter isn't cranking. Never had any starter problems and it sounds like it works OK.

All the electronics will run off of 8 volts as a minimum. As for the release of the key and it starts to run it might be the actual key switch is bad...

All ready changed it. That's what I thought as one time I just wiggled the key while cranking and it started. But it still didn't start last week. Had to role it down a hill.

Over the weekend it started several times with out problems. Then this morning when I started cranking it fired right off but did not start, kept cranking and then the check gauges light comes on and when I let go of the key it starts. This the third time it has started like that in the last couple months.

You might back track all the ignition switch wiring for a loose or problem connector.