Do I need to pull cross member and move trany back with a transmission jack.What I am asking is can trany side back in the slots on cross member enough to pull eng?

There is only one way to leave that cross member on. Unbolt the trans from the engine, support the front of the trans (since the engine normally supports it) then get tension on the engine with the cherry picker and jack the engine up, hopefully you have the engine mount bolt nuts taken off so the engine should come up slightly. Just go up enough to show that all the engine's weight is on the cherry picker, not the mounts. Now you can do one of 2 things and it's up to you which you do first. The engine mount, mount, is actually bolted to the engine with 3 bolts (per mount, so 2 sides, 6 bolts). Unbolt the mount so that you don't have to fight the regular mount which you have to jack the engine way up to get it out of that mount, or unbolt the mount and your good to go. Now it is easier to move the engine around for the next interchangeable step, taking the oil pan off. It's a PITA to get off but with it on the cherry picker it should be a little easier. Jack the engine up a little (and i know trans will still be hooked up so the engine will pivot upwards) and take the oil pan off. It will become apparent that the pickup tube makes it impossible to get the pan off. Reach in and take all the bolts for the pickup tube out and wiggle the tube out of the pan and gently throw it across the garage floor, as you will be mad. Now you can wiggle the oil pan out with some cherry picker magic. Now the engine should be still connected to the trans but free floating above the chassis since you unbolted the engine mounts, so it will now slide forward with ease, right out of the trans. Simple as that

I knew I was in for a ride but dang.

It's not that hard. I forgot to post this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFoyOjG7EJ0

not trying to hijack the thread, but speaking on the subject of engine mounts.......how difficult is it to replace the engine mount inserts that are rubber? do you have to remove the engine mount bolt & lift the engine up to get to replace them?

it doesn't take much to get the engine mounts out. With the engine supported and the bolts out they damn near fall right out of the frame side tabs. I was pretty pleased about that, let me tell you!!

it doesn't take much to get the engine mounts out. With the engine supported and the bolts out they damn near fall right out of the frame side tabs. I was pretty pleased about that, let me tell you!!

cool....you've replaced yours before? can you just support the engine with a good jack & board or something & remove the engine mount bolt.....i was thinking about replacing mine with some better ones & see if it would cut down on some of the shaking.....

Pulled them as part of pulling my engine.... I would not try to hold up a 1200# engine with a "board"..... a 4x4 maybe - but I'd worry about what I was pushing against. Get a hoist and do it right, or build a relatively strong A frame to hang the weight of the engine from on its front lifting loop off the frame or ground.

Do I need to pull cross member and move trany back with a transmission jack. What I am asking is can trany side back in the slots on cross member enough to pull eng?

You are pulling the front end out? radiator,condensor,front(radiator cross member)bumper?

Yea it's out now.

Did you do it like I said or find another route? Curious if it worked as good for you as it did for me.

Yea I pulled the mounts and it almost fell out:lmao: I put a floor jack under the trans with a 3" channel for a cradle and it sets there perfect.I got a 1k hoist and that's all see can handle. How much you think it weighs?

It weighs at least 1000. I thought I missed a bolt with mine because the cherry picker was straining so much, the whole truck was coming way up and I said damn I missed one. Nope, engine just weighs the truck down that much lol. It finally started lifting out, might use the front end loader next time.