Wasn't RUNNING that is. We were on our way to drop the truck off to get the heat/AC fixed. I'd already driven 25 miles... I was going 35-40 when suddenly I lost the power steering... cause the engine had shut off. I pulled off the road into the only space available.

I still had 1/4 tank of fuel... old fuel been in since Sept/Oct. I've only been driving enough to keep the brakes from freezing.

The engine turns over nicely. No run. I did the key thing. PCU -------- ECM --------

The mice had built a nest in the air cleaner (which I'd recently cleaned out)... mostly insulation material from the firewall. (Hood insulation removed long ago.)

My buddy came by, put another 4 gallons of fuel in it (to be sure). He checked the schrader valve & got a spray of warm fuel. Truck still has OEM lift pump. I hope that's not it. (No Codes)

I had to get the truck moved... AAA flatbedded it to the nearest dealer. They promised to look at it this afternoon, $80 to run the diognostics. I have no clue at this point. 56,000 miles

edit Dealer called back. (Good service... 4 hours to check it out) Lift pump. Dealer wants $1200 to install the intank pump that I don't want.

What's the minimum pressure required to get it to crank ? I would have thought if you had fuel prime at the injectors it would be enough to crank and start ..., just wouldn't want to drive it ...,, but I don't really know *shrug* ......

i would get a 2nd opinon if the lp not working the where did the spray come from when your buddy cracked the schrader valve and $1200 seems quite pricey to me

The dealer is not going to do this because I DON'T want an intank pump. I WILL get the codes (I presume they want to get paid.)

I am looking for another shop I can get it moved to. I was planning a lift pump install... I just waited to long.

I need to decide on a draw straw. I want a set up that won't weap on the tank top.

I HAVE a AD150 (used) & big line kit. I have to spread out the parts & see what fittings I have & what fittings I need.

--- Update to the previous post...

Dealer left a message (while I was at the hospital ) with the option of replacing the on-engine lift pump. In the neighborhood of $500 + $80 Dx charge ( vs $1200 in-tank. I am torn between the OEM on-engine which gets me back on the road quickly and getting the truck moved to another diesel shop & getting the AD installed.

I asked for the codes... in concern about the IP VP44. They got NO CODES. Zero. I asked how the Dx'd the lift pump. No, Zero FP. They think the VP44 is good. If so I thank my lucky stars for TCW3.

I think the best econimy is to have the truck moved to the diesel shop. I have talked to them & they are interested but want the instructions to review before commiting.

My next step is to contact Vulcan about the Draw Straw options.

Russ

Hey RussHabve you tried posting in CF in the chapter section to see if someone will help you install your AD for a carton or 2 of beer ?? If you explain your situation - I am sure someone would be happy to come help ....... just a thoughtI know you need your truck back tho ........ some time might be a factor .......don't let the stealers touch it - I'd rather give my money to a local guy who has a good rep You could ask that in CF chapter for your area also good luck man:thumb1:

Russ I agree with JOHNFAK. That is still high as two years ago i had to replace mine on the motor also and i got one for around $170 from midwest diesel and it only took a half hour to 45min to replace so they must be charging u $300 per hour.ouchhhhh

Well, if they're buying a lift pump through the Chrysler supply chain, & marking it up. Installation, tax, bleeding the system. This is on top of the $80 diagnostic fee. I'm not inclinded to do this.

If I have to spend this kind of money, I'd rather put it towards the AD 150 install.

The lines the AD (used) seller threw in, only one is undamaged. I don't know if there's enough length to mess with or just cut the fitting off with a razor blade.

edit:[/]I need to get a Draw Straw or have the shop fab one with a bulkhead fitting.

if thats all you need for the air dog then i would go that route.When i got my fass it came with quick connect fittingfor the tank so the only thing i had to do is pull the existing line and shove the new one on.I had to clamp it at the tank and the rest were push lock.I think the fitting are only 4-5$ per

Russ, rather than pay the dealer $500 for a new LP, you can also have the truck towed to another shop for less money.

The diesel shop is interested but has not accepted the job yet. I have gotten out the AD 150 & looked over what I have & printed the instructions which the shop wanted.

First they need to accept the job

Second we need to decide which of the needed parts they can supply & which I'll chase.

I got an email reply from Eric at Vulcan so I expect I can get any pieces from him to complete the installation.

Russ

edit I went to the Diesel shop this morning, talked to the boss & then the mechanic. Mechanic doesn't have much experience with the Cummins pickups but knowledgeable about the 5.9 in bigger trucks & the Fuel Pump & VP44 issues.

I went to the dealership, paid my bill for their disnogistic fee ($88), thanked then for their help. They actually were entertaining the job of installing the aftermarket system if I brought the full kit in. As we know, there can be some creative work on the tank top so I declined. I think they were OK with my decision. Overall, they were pretty nice. (Never PO a potential customer.)

I called AAA, waited the hour & the ramp truck showed up. Same driver as first tow. As he worked we chatted about the dealership & what work they know how to do. He loaded the truck & moved it 4 miles to the Diesel shop. I expected to be charged for the tow... but was not.

Making Progress...

Russ

Truck is sitting at the diesel shop... I did not expect to jump to the head of their schedule. The mechanc & I discussed the "aftermarket" lift pump (AD 150) and not being sure that they'd be able to get replacement filters for my used unit... obiviously needs to start out with new filters. I suggested my getting the filters & fittings I needed too thinking that Vulcan would be sure to send me the right stuff. I could not get "Eric"on the phone but talked to the lady a couple of times. I called back yet again, wanting badly to get it shipped out without blowing a third day. We ended up trying to figure it out from their web site. I hope I got the right stuff. I was over $100 before the 3 day shipping from the left coast was added in. I got a tracking number... Third day is Tuesday... I guess UPS does not move on the weekends. I know I did not buy the used pump from Vulcan but I really could have used some customer service... it was really frustrating. I need to get the parts here so the shop isn't held up on my account! The shop thinks they have bulkhead fittings & intend to fab a fuel tight pickup tube. Talked to the boss today, let him know that I'd ordered the filters & hardware. (I think the boss would have prefered to supply more of the materials... more to markup. Mechanic didn't care, he's paid by the hour.) They may start on it anyway... The truck needs state inspection sticker & an oil change so I'm letting the shop do that... I've read that there is a crossover for the AD filter & separator but when I looked I didn't find any that saved any money. I'm thinking that I should get a full set of filters to keep under the seat. There is always the chance that one will need a filter in a hurry.

I did the same thing you are doing on my 2002 and love the result. Did not have a LP failure, was just noticing that my fuel pressure was lower than I liked so made the update. It now rarely goes lower than 13 psi even at WOT and normally sits at 16-17 psi. Also went with the drawstraw and big line kit from Vulcan and everything went in very easily.

The Diesel shop got to my truck today. You'll recall the dealership told me "No Codes", "Zero Fuel Pressure", "You need a lift pump" ($600 to replace OEM, $1200 to retrofit in tank)... charged me $88 for diagnositic.The diesel shop pulled codes P1689, P0230, P0232, P1693. Apparently there is a test sequence which can test the lift pump.. it ran. AAARRRGGGHHH!!!Wouldn't it have been a beech to have spent $1200 and still not have a running truck!!The mechanic noted the mouse sign... did not see any damage... yet...His other thought at this point is a bad ground.

hey flagmanruss, after reading your last post i just remembered that the same thing happened to me and it ended up being the fuel relay in the box on the drivers fender so i just pulled my foglight relay and put in the place of my fuel relay and she has'nt stopped since.(After about a week of searching for broken wires and bad grounds)