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Anyway to check how much wear a clutch has left?

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Been struggling with the clutch on our 1998 ever since my son took it for a long trip last month.At first he lost the clutch completely, so we replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to correct part of the problem.It seems to grab solidly but the pedal comes so far off the floor (from what I remember it was like before), that it just doesn't feel right. I bled the system and believe the master is okay.Anyway to check this to see if the clutch friction plate is worn? I read if you put it in 4th or 5th and accelarate at low speed you can watch for slippage, I've tried this and it doesn't seem to slip, just slowly builds speed.Any other suggestions or maybe I'm just being paranoid? :cookoo:ThanksRick

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  • Owner

The only way to check a clutch is to phyiscally pull the transmission down and look... There is no inspection cover or holes to look through.

But if its not slipping I would leave it alone for the moment...

But if the pedal doesn't feel right you might think of replacing the hydraulics on the the clutch (master AND slave).

--- Update to the previous post...

The only way I know to check a clutch is to phyiscall pul the transmission down and look.

As for the hydraulics you might consider replacing both the master and slave and be done.

  • 2 months later...

Even with the baring plug out and using a Snap-On bore scope you cant see either. I tried but only saw that I have a Luke clutch.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

[aQUOTE=Mopar1973Man;39036]I hate to say it you got to drop the trans and bellhousing to see the condition of the flywheel and plate...

Could be a weak or cheap pressure plate, also where did you get the hydraulics from and did you install it as one whole sealed assembly? Does it go into gear any easier if you pump the clutch pedal a few times the hold?-Jordan-

  • Author

Well we got the tranny back in tonight, had to buy a transmission jack on Kijjiiiji for a $100. Interesting thing we found was the pilot bearing was destroyed, not a needle bearing in site. Clutch was probably 80% worn and all the springs on the friction plate were quite loose. The new LUK clutch has double springs on both sets of springs, where as the original LUK we took out only had 1 set of springs that were double.The transmission crossmember was a real treat, had to borrow a hydraulic jack to spread the frame rails to get it to slip back in.Will know by Saturday if all is back to normal with this, still have the drive shafts, skid plate etc. to get back in.

I'm curious to know if that made any rattling noise.. let us know when you get it back together.. curious.

  • Author

There wasn't any rattling, but given the engine noise it may have masked it. The only symptom was some mild clutch chattering at low rpms but nothing major. The new clutch feels sweet :hyper: and the annoying not able to shift into 1st or 2nd at a stop seems to be gone. Possibly the input shaft was wobbling around. The only thing that seemed to be a wasted effort this service was we installed a new gasket kit in the Vacuum pump and we still have an oil leak up front somewhere :doh:

You may have to remove your front cover and tighten the bolts.

  • Author

Do you mean the front timing cover bolts need to be tightened? There is so much oil splash on the front and side of the engine, I can't get a good idea where it is all coming from. At least I won't need to rust proof the engine bay LOL

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