Hello all,I have been reading quite a bit and have recently registered. I have been putting my plan together and in doing so, have some questions that require some expertise and experience. My truck is a 1998.5 24v 2500, 4x4, QC, LB. Auto with 160,000 mi. My goal is realiabilty and only moderate power. I tow my dirt bikes and my parents 20' travel trailer sometimes. So here goes my plans and questions...My first step I have decided on a DTT transmission, before I start my performance portion of the build, for the piece of mind.Next, I plan on a lift pump (I prefer the Airdog for some reason) 4" exhaust, intake (either BHAF or the S&B dry filter cold air) Edge juice w/Attitude and CTS for the dual purpose and the guages. I feel confident so far, but this is where I begin to have questions.While I have the funds available I was considering upgrading the turbo, which would incur the cost of head studs and a manifold (from which I have read would need to be replaced sooner or later anyway due to cracking) I have been looking at the BD super B and also the Industrial Injection Phatshaft 62, (probably the 12cm?) but which injectors shoud I go with? And is there a preference to either turbo or another one? Does this sound to be a good place to be for daily driving and the mild to moderate towing that I do? I honestly don't see myself going further than this, but you never know I guess.Thank you for the read and any help!

Before you spend any money with DTT read this thread: http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/wary-doing-business-dtt-diesel-performance-t302266.html If you want a good transmission check this place: http://www.goerend.com/ I have one from there and so does my daughter. You may even save enough to buy your turbo you want too!

I have a fully built DTT auto, and have no real issues that were not presented by the crap done during installation by a 3rd party.My story about DTT goes back to a payment plan and me shipping my trans out at the same time frame as the guy in the previous post, around October-December of 2011.I will say my DTT has held up to everything, And it sees thus far they did a good job with it. I would say any of the big 5 would be good for a transmission. DTT, Goerend, Suncoast, Garmon, and revmax.the mistake that the poster made was talking directly to stephan, he should have spoke to Shanti, she does all of the main paperwork/billing stuff. All in all i won't say not to do business with DTT, as the other poster implied, but my advice is to instead not go through vendors, if your going DTT or Goerend get their main place to do it, not a sub shop. My DTT was built fine, but the mechanics shop that did the install, did a "good" job, at screwing around with it.As for towing/reliability.....I would get a fully built auto, then add head studs, some 60's and a Smarty. Forget the rest of the crap.A larger turbo is not necessary, grab a boost elbow and set it to 35psi. The problem with the edge is that when it does it usually causes other issues, with the ecm and the VP-44, and when its really cold they sometimes won't work. I would get a smarty and set it on lvl 5-6 when towing, with a built auto i would also say that you should turn torque management off completely. My setup on my 99, hauls heavy all the time, and does it will, it shouldn't have any issues with what you have planned.

ok 3rd response and 3rd variation You'll find thats common based on peoples preferences and experiences with products. Nothing wrong with DTT. A reputable builder. Like pepsi said stick to those 5 and you'll be right.Juice CTS. I love it. NEVER had a problem with it - and comparing the CTS to a smarty not the same thing (sorry pepsi). Way better than smarty (I love the smarty tho - it just ain't worth it until your a 3rd gen). Same with my old EDGE - never a single problem. As for all the other stuff - just depends man - it gets expensive and what you consider moderate power.For just towing - small injectors and hx35 boost elbow and juice will work well. No studs. Cheap power.Go beyond a 60mm turbo (like a PS62) and you''ll need to think about studs and bigger injectors than just electronics.Id seriously check out garmon/goerand. If warranty is what you want - cant beat goerand- but you pay for it.

Guys thanks for the replies, one of the biggest reasons that I chose to go with DTT is that it is only a two hour drive for me, drive up and have it installed, spend the day or night with the misses and drive home with a new tranny. But, I will definintlety be exploring my options now that I have read these posts. Right now money is not a major concern (I'm not rich, but I have saved and budgeted for this) However, saving money where you can is always a bonus and can be put to use elsewhere. JOHNFAK-do you use your CTS for guages? How do you like it for that purpose? I am not set on a turbo, I was just thinking that while I have the money put away to use it and be done with it. Would you guys say that adding a turbo, would not make for a daily drivable vahicle?As far as injectors is there a specific brand that you all would recommend or possibly a specific vendor? I have been shopping around a little online and have probed a bit through email, but when I talk to the shops I can't help but feel that my best interest is not in mind and that's why I turned here. Sorry everyone for so many questions, I can read all day, but it's this interaction that helps me get these things sorted out that I don't usually get to read or see.

Guys thanks for the replies, one of the biggest reasons that I chose to go with DTT is that it is only a two hour drive for me, drive up and have it installed, spend the day or night with the misses and drive home with a new tranny. But, I will definintlety be exploring my options now that I have read these posts.

Right now money is not a major concern (I'm not rich, but I have saved and budgeted for this) However, saving money where you can is always a bonus and can be put to use elsewhere.

JOHNFAK-do you use your CTS for guages? How do you like it for that purpose?

I am not set on a turbo, I was just thinking that while I have the money put away to use it and be done with it. Would you guys say that adding a turbo, would not make for a daily drivable vahicle?

As far as injectors is there a specific brand that you all would recommend or possibly a specific vendor? I have been shopping around a little online and have probed a bit through email, but when I talk to the shops I can't help but feel that my best interest is not in mind and that's why I turned here.

Sorry everyone for so many questions, I can read all day, but it's this interaction that helps me get these things sorted out that I don't usually get to read or see.

Being your so close you shouldn't have any issues if any arise, me im 3,000+ miles away lol. I think 99% of my issues with my DTT came from the shop that did the install. i can go on about them..

I went with Diesel Auto Power injectors. jkidd is highly recommended.

A turbo is not needed really. your HX-35 turbo is good to about 400 Hp, or 35lbs of boost. I don't see how you could over work it with a small bump injector wise.

If you feel the need to upgrade go with a S300 to start with. if i was you i would start planning my end goals then go backwards. If your goal is 400HP then go about everything with that in mind.

I went with the goal of 355, and im happy where i am now.

You should limit yourself to 300-350HP as that is where the engine has enough Hp, and will run forever, anything over 425 is where you start breaking things.

--- Update to the previous post...

ok 3rd response and 3rd variation You'll find thats common based on peoples preferences and experiences with products.

Nothing wrong with DTT. A reputable builder. Like pepsi said stick to those 5 and you'll be right.

Juice CTS. I love it. NEVER had a problem with it - and comparing the CTS to a smarty not the same thing (sorry pepsi). Way better than smarty (I love the smarty tho - it just ain't worth it until your a 3rd gen). Same with my old EDGE - never a single problem.

As for all the other stuff - just depends man - it gets expensive and what you consider moderate power.

For just towing - small injectors and hx35 boost elbow and juice will work well. No studs. Cheap power.

Go beyond a 60mm turbo (like a PS62) and you''ll need to think about studs and bigger injectors than just electronics.

Id seriously check out garmon/goerand. If warranty is what you want - cant beat goerand- but you pay for it.

Hey John what about this post here

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4792-Smarty

The reason i suggested a smarty is the set it and forget it ability, and the fact he tows, the smarty will give him the low end grunt power he needs.

no doubt stacking would be a beaste, but i feel that with 60's and a smarty make for a good combination.

Thank you, that is good advice. I guess I didn't have an end goal in mind, but I would say that 400 would be the max. With that in mind I wouldn't need a turbo or head studs, just a boost elbow? Would you say the PacBrake elbow or a different one?I have seen his name pop up a few times and I have actually been on his site, lol. I didn't corelate the two at the time. Is there a way to reach him or would you say that going to his site and trying that way is better? I only ask because some people don't mix the business side with their forum use. (that has been my experience anyway)I will have to say that this has been far more helpful and informative so far, rather than scrolling hundreds of pages of people arguing.

Thank you, that is good advice. I guess I didn't have an end goal in mind, but I would say that 400 would be the max. With that in mind I wouldn't need a turbo or head studs, just a boost elbow? Would you say the PacBrake elbow or a different one? I have seen his name pop up a few times and I have actually been on his site, lol. I didn't corelate the two at the time. Is there a way to reach him or would you say that going to his site and trying that way is better? I only ask because some people don't mix the business side with their forum use. (that has been my experience anyway) I will have to say that this has been far more helpful and informative so far, rather than scrolling hundreds of pages of people arguing.

I have head studs going in just because i have an incessant fear, about lifting the head, mainly because low rpm high boost will do that. Before i broke my smarty i used to tow and tow heavy i mean 20,000 and up, and the smarty was a god send for me. I wanted somethign that i could know would not cause issues. (only issue i have is that my cable broke, but should be fixed this weekend and hopefully not a day to soon. Monday i have a good sized load to haul with the 99, to see how she will hold up. With your set up you want ide say, grab a BHAF, (forget that CAI stuff), 4 inch turbo back exhaust, a PXRB Pac brake, and if your not ditching the turbo grab the turbo mounted version. A 4 inch exhaust, boost elbow, 3 pcs exhaust manifold, some light injectors 50-75HP, and then your choice of a programmer. The problem with a CAI is that your mpg's will also drop off. warmed engine room air is not a bad thing for these motors, they have inter-coolers for a reason jkidd will send you to his site in the end. But i have found that the vendors all are quite helpful, i know he frequents this site here and there. My warning about airdog, is that they have issues, especially those pre cut push loc fittings. Mike (mopar1973man)has told me about them. just incase you were wondering this is a boost elbow here http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/boostelbow.htm these are the injectors i got here http://www.dieselautopower.com/Diesel_injectors_24v_p/dap%20injectors%2098-02.htm Is this what you were looking at? http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/pacbrake%2094-02%205.9l%20c44083.htm this is next on my list here http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/24v%203pc%20manifold.htm I would go with PacBrake over BD for an exhaust brake, their air compressor version is a good one. I know Walt at FTE diesel sells them. That is on my list after the cosmetic work is finish on my truck.

Pepsi71ocean, Thank you so much for the info! the more I learn the more money I seem to be saving, lol! I was confused about the boost elbow, I was mixing it up with the PacBrake elbow, two very different things. I will just try and send an email to the website and see if he responds. I will be coming home for a bit in June and would like to start getting this all sorted out. I really appreciate the help!

just call them up. but if your going to go all out, do it right the first time.

Being your so close you shouldn't have any issues if any arise.

Heck definately go with DTT if your that close - cant beat being able to take an issues directly into a shop.

I went with Diesel Auto Power injectors. jkidd is highly recommended.

Yup cant go wrong here. And hes a site sponser. SDX and CPP and F1 are other big injectors. But if you order everything off DAP you'll get the best deal and great products.

A turbo is not needed really. your HX-35 turbo is good to about 400 Hp, or 35lbs of boost. I don't see how you could over work it with a small bump injector wise.

Its a heck of a turbo. You have an auto but its a 98.5 so its probably a HX35. Stick with this to begin with - its easy to upgrade later just a new downpipe and turbo.

Hey John what about this post here

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4792-Smarty

The reason i suggested a smarty is the set it and forget it ability, and the fact he tows, the smarty will give him the low end grunt power he needs.

but i feel that with 60's and a smarty make for a good combination.

Totally agree but its got no gauges. So its $600 for that and $300+ for gauges and gives him 60hp for $900.

CTS will give him 120 HP for same money and be touch screen and adjustable and handle all guages. So it just has more bang for the buck.

I loved the smarty just like in the thread. It just wasnt worth it for what it gave you HP and guage wise. But yeah what you say is a heck of a towing setup - small injectors and smarty - nice. I think the TM and the stacking feature is the best thing about smarty - but I think if you were going to higher HP - youd be better doing it with bigger injectors than electronics/stacking.

Oh yeah. Make sure you overbuild the tranny slightly. Wish I had now rather than saving there. What I mean is if you think your shooting for 400HP have them build it for 600HP. Even if it costs you an extra $1k which it will. Just means you'll never have to worry about it again. I built mine up - but didnt do billet flex or billet input .... guess what I have to worry about now . If its a choice put the extra funds there rather than performance for now.

This may be a silly question, but if these turbos are so good, why do so many people get new ones? Also, if they're good to 400 then is there a point of a Super B, as it says its good to about 425? These are honest questions, I am trying to sift through the marketing and get facts. Also, I have talked to a couple of shops and they want $1400 or more to install this stuff. I originally wanted to be able to just come home and drive my truck, but for $1400 I will have to have some me and my truck time. With that said, I feel confident with most of these installs, but I can't tell from the pictures if our exhausts need to be welded or if they are pieced together with clamps? I don't know how to weld, so this is why I ask and I will probably pay for the lift pump to go in as well, just because I don't have a tremendous amount of room or want to hassle with removing the fuel tank.I would like to call, but I think the time difference is 12.5 hrs (Afghanistan time) and the hassle of the phone card and the delays on the phone is frustrating, I will shoot for email first. Thanks again, you guys have been awesome!

First confirm what turbo you have on now This stuff is pretty easy to install just takes time. Where do u live ? If you post here or CF lots of guys normally willing to help ..., Isx helped me with injectors fist time and another guy helped me with my trans. Turbos are different in how they handle air and heat - just want them balanced. A superb will flow slightly more air and handle heat better than a hx35 .... Is it worth it - I don't think so unless unless you might do twins. Guys go bigger to balance their fueling and not doing it right 1st time ( like me) ... I'm about to do twins which is my fourth turbo. Get the tranny and programmer and guages. Install programmer yourself it's 4-6 hours first time with pyro and fp. Then go up from there depending if you want more hp.

I dont know a thing about an auto tranny, but the other items you want to put on are not that difficult. It is bolt on, no welding unless you want to weld your exhaust. Dropping the fuel tank is no big deal or you can lift the bed, some folks think that is easier. Ther are plenty of people here to ask questions. You can download install instructions for what you want to install and see if you think you can handle it. Like John says it is not that difficult.

Thank you, that is sound advice. I will have the tranny done at the DTT shop and since I don't have to weld, I will be doing the exhaust my-self! I have read almost every istall instructions on the pieces that I was considering. I generally like to do my own work, that has been the case with my Jeeps anyway. I don't always trust the shops and they are too expensive in my opinion.Just so that I am clear and to summerize:Tranny, lift pump, guages, BHAF, STOCK TURBO, 4" exhaust (turbo back), programmer, mild injectors 50 - 75, boost elbow (35psi), and I should not need head studs? Ok I think that I have locked this down, pending the last question about head studs. ok one more, does the edge come with the necessary hardware for the guages? Ok now that is all.

Gauges will come with new juice and all hardware. Just confirm you have a hx35 .... On the compressor housing . Rest sounds good Best bit is you can swap and change most of the other stuff super easy to get what you want just not the tranny. Expect a 4k+ bill here. New turbos if you decide later just require a hx40 downpipe - about a $100 used.

Studs - shouldn't need till you go bigger than a hx35.

Totally agree but its got no gauges. So its $600 for that and $300+ for gauges and gives him 60hp for $900.

CTS will give him 120 HP for same money and be touch screen and adjustable and handle all guages. So it just has more bang for the buck.

I loved the smarty just like in the thread. It just wasnt worth it for what it gave you HP and guage wise. But yeah what you say is a heck of a towing setup - small injectors and smarty - nice. I think the TM and the stacking feature is the best thing about smarty - but I think if you were going to higher HP - youd be better doing it with bigger injectors than electronics/stacking.

Oh yeah. Make sure you overbuild the tranny slightly. Wish I had now rather than saving there. What I mean is if you think your shooting for 400HP have them build it for 600HP. Even if it costs you an extra $1k which it will. Just means you'll never have to worry about it again. I built mine up - but didnt do billet flex or billet input .... guess what I have to worry about now . If its a choice put the extra funds there rather than performance for now.

unless he taps his vp-44 (which voids any warrenty) he will only have the same 60-65Hp gain as the smarty.

i agree, my trans was over built, and even then i still feel its not enought, only time will tell of couse.

This may be a silly question, but if these turbos are so good, why do so many people get new ones? Also, if they're good to 400 then is there a point of a Super B, as it says its good to about 425? These are honest questions, I am trying to sift through the marketing and get facts. Also, I have talked to a couple of shops and they want $1400 or more to install this stuff. I originally wanted to be able to just come home and drive my truck, but for $1400 I will have to have some me and my truck time.

the only thing worth having installed is the trans, the rest is very ewasy stuff, even non-mechanically inclined people can do it.

I have injector install videos, as well as a FASS guide on the article side, as well as a trans diagnosis page.

My advice is do it yourself.

People go larger turbo's because they go to big with their injectors, if your truck is a towing pig, then you don't need the crazy ____ most put on it. people throw large injectors in and then go ????why are my EGT's so high??

See if your adding a programmer then i would say no more then 75HP for a stock turbo. if you go with an edge, even stock injectors will push the same flow, however you need to tap your VP-44 for it.

This is why i say if your towing a smarty combind with some small injectors 60-75's will give you that 350HP that you want. and unlike the edge the smarty fuels hard down low.

I advise this route over just a programmer because (like John said) the long term goal is reliability, and well in the winter i can return my truck to stock and still have a 295HP motor, versus just a programmer which means your dogging back at 235..

First confirm what turbo you have on now

This stuff is pretty easy to install just takes time. Where do u live ? If you post here or CF lots of guys normally willing to help ..., Isx helped me with injectors fist time and another guy helped me with my trans.

Turbos are different in how they handle air and heat - just want them balanced. A superb will flow slightly more air and handle heat better than a hx35 .... Is it worth it - I don't think so unless unless you might do twins.

Guys go bigger to balance their fueling and not doing it right 1st time ( like me) ... I'm about to do twins which is my fourth turbo.

Get the tranny and programmer and guages. Install programmer yourself it's 4-6 hours first time with pyro and fp.

Then go up from there depending if you want more hp.

All dodges from 98.5-2000.5 were HX-35's once you get mid year then they go to HY-35's, and then got the 235 SO pump, not the 215.

Studs - shouldn't need till you go bigger than a hx35.

If he is towing i would say studs or atleast returque the head bolts.

I have studs to go in because if im towing 20,000lbs i want to do it at 1,600rpm's not 2,200

If he is towing i would say studs or atleast returque the head bolts. I have studs to go in because if im towing 20,000lbs i want to do it at 1,600rpm's not 2,200

Not sure exactly what towing has to do with studs - same max boost and same cylinder pressure as same fueling. I would *think* 90% of the people here with a HX35 dont have studs - and no gasket issues. Not saying its not a good idea if its worth $400 to you - to me - only after a HX35.. here's a breakdown. To the OP - either way is fine. Theres no right or wrong here - just differences on opinion so dont get confused. CLICK BELOW TO SEE BREAKDOWN

I bought my Smarty, and my FASS years ago when it was cheaper, i didn't realize they went up in price.My truck had a 215 Pump in it, i now have a 235, with 60 horse injectors, plus my smarty im thinking im closer to 150 over stock.You must remember that the Smarty is only 60HP over stock with stock injectors, there is a wild card in that. I have heard you can see between 10-15 Hp more with larger injectors depending on their size. I have never dyno'ed my truck but i don't doubt i could be rolling around 350-360 on lvl 9.Plus did JohnFAK tap his VP-44?The smarty will raise its fueling curve depending on your level, it is adjustable, just not on the fly like the edge can, because smarty rewrites the whole fueling map in the ECM, not just change it via the CAN-BUS

Plus did JohnFAK tap his VP-44?

Yessir - if your not going to TAP - it just isn't worth the $$ buying. Stick with a smarty or go lower like a EZ.