Hello all,I have been reading quite a bit and have recently registered. I have been putting my plan together and in doing so, have some questions that require some expertise and experience. My truck is a 1998.5 24v 2500, 4x4, QC, LB. Auto with 160,000 mi. My goal is realiabilty and only moderate power. I tow my dirt bikes and my parents 20' travel trailer sometimes. So here goes my plans and questions...My first step I have decided on a DTT transmission, before I start my performance portion of the build, for the piece of mind.Next, I plan on a lift pump (I prefer the Airdog for some reason) 4" exhaust, intake (either BHAF or the S&B dry filter cold air) Edge juice w/Attitude and CTS for the dual purpose and the guages. I feel confident so far, but this is where I begin to have questions.While I have the funds available I was considering upgrading the turbo, which would incur the cost of head studs and a manifold (from which I have read would need to be replaced sooner or later anyway due to cracking) I have been looking at the BD super B and also the Industrial Injection Phatshaft 62, (probably the 12cm?) but which injectors shoud I go with? And is there a preference to either turbo or another one? Does this sound to be a good place to be for daily driving and the mild to moderate towing that I do? I honestly don't see myself going further than this, but you never know I guess.Thank you for the read and any help!

i forgot to add, but in theory running more boost down low will cause you to lift the head off the block, that is why, i was told by the old timers that its best to re torque you bolts, or throw studs in if your anything over stock and towing heavy.yes for what he is towing its not that bad, but if im towing 20,000lsb and runnign the truck with a good load, thats 20,000+another 8,000 for the truck thats alot of weight to throw on stock studs.Ide rather be safe then sorry.Im not tapping, my VP-44 I don't want to risk loosing my warranty if i did trash it.I just don't think its worth running a $1,000 dollar programmer that someone could jack out of your truck, maybe its just me?Also, if you plan to sleep in your truck get your exhaust welded, otherwise you will get that exhaust smell in your cab(like me).

I am tracking so far until we get to the tapping. I am not sure that I know what that means. Are you referring to "tapping" the programmer into the pump itself? Is this a seperate mod from the regular install? I think just for the piece of mind and the sake of argument since I will be in there doing the injectors that I will just put in the head studs and call it good. I want to do it right and not worry again. This way if I ever upgrade the turbo I will not have to worry about this aspect and will save time later. I really appreciate your guy's efforts and taking the time to "school" me!

I am tracking so far until we get to the tapping. I am not sure that I know what that means. Are you referring to "tapping" the programmer into the pump itself? Is this a seperate mod from the regular install? I think just for the piece of mind and the sake of argument since I will be in there doing the injectors that I will just put in the head studs and call it good. I want to do it right and not worry again. This way if I ever upgrade the turbo I will not have to worry about this aspect and will save time later. I really appreciate your guy's efforts and taking the time to "school" me!

Tapping means tapping the VP44 wire to allow the programmer to send signals for increased fuel injection to the pump. If you dont TAP - you are limited to around 60HP on ALL programmers. If you TAP you can get somwhere between 120-150HP from your programmer. A LOT of guys TAP. The alternative is to get the power from injectors rather from programmer. But that power is not adjustable. On the flip side - some people say getting power that way does less stress to VP44. So again - no right or wrong - just different approaches Heres my post on STUDS install. It should help you do yours. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5614-Head-studs-and-twins-build-!!!!!

Nice write up, that look like it would be the perfect time to do the injectors and check the valves.

--- Update to the previous post...

Since I would be upgrading the exhaust to 4", does that get rid of or remove the turbo elbow?

While this thread is still active, out of curiosity, at what point does one need or would benefit from the intake elbow, I don't see very much talk of those ever?

Tapping means tapping the VP44 wire to allow the programmer to send signals for increased fuel injection to the pump. If you dont TAP - you are limited to around 60HP on ALL programmers. If you TAP you can get somwhere between 120-150HP from your programmer.

A LOT of guys TAP.

The alternative is to get the power from injectors rather from programmer. But that power is not adjustable.

On the flip side - some people say getting power that way does less stress to VP44.

So again - no right or wrong - just different approaches

Heres my post on STUDS install. It should help you do yours.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5614-Head-studs-and-twins-build-!!!!!

I believe Mike said that tapping the VP-44 causes t to burn out quicker because your forcing it fuel longer. I also think that tapping will cause it to burn out, but thats just a theory.

I think the soulution is small to medium injectors like 60-75's (for stock turbo), and a programmer to give you the best of both worlds, im just saying this way you can turn it down.

Nice write up, that look like it would be the perfect time to do the injectors and check the valves.

--- Update to the previous post...

Since I would be upgrading the exhaust to 4", does that get rid of or remove the turbo elbow?

While this thread is still active, out of curiosity, at what point does one need or would benefit from the intake elbow, I don't see very much talk of those ever?

Intakes are useless, the stock tube is 4inches all around and if you get a BHAF then you have no restriction at all.

Upgrading to a 4 inch will not remove the turbo restriction, now if you get a Pac Elbow then you can tell who your getting your exhaust from and they will give you the right downpipe.

I got my Exhaust from Walt at FTE Diesel, he is a good guy with that stuff.

So if you replace the turbo is the turbo elbow still required? The reason I ask is when I was inquiring about a turbo from one of the shops they told me that if you upgrade the exhaust to 4" the elbow wouldn't be required, is there any truth to this?Also I was asking about the intake that goes on the manifold, I never see any talk of those, so I assume those are useless as well?Thanks again!

My upgrade to a Banks 4" came with a new elbow. It allowed the exhaust pipe to be 4" all the way, but still shrank down at the turbo. They called it a power elbow. It is probably similar to the Pac Brake elbow mentioned earlier. Someone else would have to confirm that. I dont know that you can eliminate the elbow. If you open it up at the it probably messes up how the turbo fundtions. Some one else more knowledgeable would have to help with that aspect.I have heard some good things about the intake manifold upgrade. I believe it was Johnfak that just installed on and did a wrie up on it very recently.

Oh boy, it will never stop! The parts just keep coming, whew, so add the elbow to the list. This is where I draw the line! Probably, lol. Thank you for the insight!

Oh boy, it will never stop! The parts just keep coming, whew, so add the elbow to the list. This is where I draw the line! Probably, lol. Thank you for the insight!

Yeah the elbow flange is nomrally around 3 or 3.5" as opposed to 4" exhuast. So either the downpipe will usually step down or the elbow has to be different. You can check somthing like this out. The benefit is if you decide to go bigger turbo later - you have the right downpipe and all you need to do is extend it slightly - an exahist place will do it $20. [h=1]Power Elbow 1994-2002 dodge ram cummins 5.9L and hx40 downpipe[/h] http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=280819808214&nma=true&rt=nc&si=bimCePMeWXgTwABnmX%252BcWJCKkeo%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

Eureka! So it goes turbo, elbow, down pipe, then exhaust. This is difficult without being able to look at my truck, lol. I finally found a decent picture. And the list keeps growing and growing, but so does my knowledge, good to know.

Eureka! So it goes turbo, elbow, down pipe, then exhaust. This is difficult without being able to look at my truck, lol. I finally found a decent picture. And the list keeps growing and growing, but so does my knowledge, good to know.

Yes Once you go larger - you need a HX40 downpipe and its clamps to the exhaust housing with a vband clamp and no elbow involved. Thats the beauty of that setup on ebay (you will need to PM the guy though - I actually know him - good guy) as its comes with new SS HX40 and the elbow for 4" - so means you get to keep you downpipe if you upgrade ( just extend it ). Rather than having to buy another $150 one.

I got it, so when you upgrade the turbo it has a larger exhaust, that's why there is not a need for the elbow? The HX40 down pipe will attach to the larger exhaust of an upgraded turbo? It all makes sense now! Man thanks and thanks for the patience, I realize these have been simple questions, but it's hard to decipher sometimes.

I got it, so when you upgrade the turbo it has a larger exhaust, that's why there is not a need for the elbow? The HX40 down pipe will attach to the larger exhaust of an upgraded turbo? It all makes sense now! Man thanks and thanks for the patience, I realize these have been simple questions, but it's hard to decipher sometimes.

Basically yes - you got it np.

if i could do it again i would go for a Pac Elbow and a true 4 inch TBE so that last restriction is non existent, but that is foir those who have a dire need to get rid of exhaust temps.

Ok everyone,First, I would like to thank everybody for their opinions and help. Secondly, here is an update; I am finally coming home in the beginning of November and I have placed my order. I went with a DTT transmission, for the reasons stated previously and they are so close to me. Next, thank alll of you for the recommendation to Diesel Auto Power, they have been a pleasure to work with. I have went with:S&B IntakeSliverline T409 4" exhaustDAP 100 HP injectors3-piece manifoldTunnel RamEdge Juice w/Attitude (CTS)BD Super BAir Dog lift pumpand unfortunately I had to replace my VP :-( better now I guess.I will update once I get home and get to put it all together and thank you all again!

Ok. As for tapping the VP44 that is myth. It will NOT burn out a VP44 quicker. It just gives you full control over the fuel and timing. Without the tap you at the mercy of ECM and smog limits. With the wire tapped you can hold the fuel open to full extent of the module capablities.As for building power another thing to remember don't get carried away with large tires sizes. It best to be a size small and allow the tires to break free than break the input shaft of your transmission. Like myself I've done the 235's for MPG and transmission reasons.