So I installed the Raptor FRRP 2 days ago and installed the BHAF today I love the turbo whistle. I built my own tapped banjo bolt but all my fuel psi gauges only go to 15 psi and this pump pegged them to the 6 O'clock postion with the engine not running. Man I have learned alot of stuff on here already. Tomorrow I'm cutting out the convertor and muffler and straight piping it with 3" (for now anyways). I bought a new single billet convertor from a local convertor builder. I also picked up a new input seal and a filter kit and 13 liters of ATF+4. When I have the trans out I want to adjust the bands and clean out the solonoids (or a least the governor solonoid) Does anybody have a picture of the valvebody that shows the location of the governor solonoid? I have built 727s back in the day but they were alot simpler. Also will I need to portapower the frame apart a bit to get the cross member out? And finally when the mount is out and I drop the tranny down to unbolt it will the engine mounts hold the engine or will I need to block it up or rig up some kind of support to hold it? I don't want to damage the exhaust or fan shroud if it tips down too far. Thanks guys you have already been a big help to me.

By now you probably have the trans out and found out that you really don't need to spread the frame, but it helps, and yes, you will need to support the back of the engine. Far as band adjustments, look at THIS PAGE for the procedure. For the governor pressure solenoid THIS PAGE has the answers you want. Tom

Fill out your signature with your truck info, so it's easier for us to answer some questions ;)As for the portapower: no. The crossmember (at least on a 2gen) sits in wedges. take the bolts out after supporting/lifting the trans (also remove the two trans mount nuts) and jack the trans up to the floor. Then take a hammer and knock the crossmember up then backward. It'll fall out.If it's a 4x4, drop the tcase first (driveshafts, linkages, vacuum lines, 6 nuts on mating point, etc.)The motor mounts will support the engine. I also jack up the front of the motor to pitch the trans downward to access everything. unbolt the trans from the midplate, leaving the midplate, starter, etc., bolted to the engine.Also, disconnect the exhaust to allow the engine to tilt downward in the back. If your exhaust wont come apart underneath, two bolts takes the downpipe from the turbo. I believe they're 16mm?Access to the TC bolts/flywheel is found on the pass. side of the engine, remove the tin dust cover.

Thanks for the info guys. I did fill out my signature, but I'm still a new limited member and I don't think it will show up until I have 20 posts?? I didn't start pulling it out yet I wanted to see what you guys had to say first. Edit...when I posted this there was my signature...lol

If it's a 4x4, drop the tcase first (driveshafts, linkages, vacuum lines, 6 nuts on mating point, etc.) .

This part ^^^^ - YES YES YES .....................