Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

I will check to see if it's a Denso. It's possible. I bought a Napa one that worked for a while then started to have issues. Then rebuilt the old one but had no luck with the issue. That is the one in there now. What does the kit cost? At this point I'll try that because I don't feel that I'll get anywhere with this place. 

It also blows my mind how's it's so intermittent.  

This is where I bought the parts to rebuild mine.  This is for a Denso.

Rebuild Kit:  $42.82  http://www.aspwholesale.com/repair-kit-nd-er/if-136a-p6046.html (comes with brushes and bearings.)

Rectifier:      $32.38 http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-nd-p1375.html

 

This is a pretty good video that can walk you through the rebuild.  It all worked out well for me and fixed the AC noise that I had.

 

 

Edited August 22, 20168 yr by Hawkez

  On 8/22/2016 at 4:49 PM, Hawkez said:

This is where I bought the parts to rebuild mine.  This is for a Denso.

Rebuild Kit:  $42.82  http://www.aspwholesale.com/repair-kit-nd-er/if-136a-p6046.html (comes with brushes and bearings.)

Rectifier:      $32.38 http://www.aspwholesale.com/rectifier-nd-p1375.html

 

This is a pretty good video that can walk you through the rebuild.  It all worked out well for me and fixed the AC noise that I had.

 

 

Thank you for the video and links. I have not gotten to watch the video yet so excuse me if it's answered in there. Do those kits come with the diodes and all parts needed? I've been real busy but will look at video and links tonight  

  On 8/23/2016 at 2:38 PM, Johnnyusmc said:

Thank you for the video and links. I have not gotten to watch the video yet so excuse me if it's answered in there. Do those kits come with the diodes and all parts needed? I've been real busy but will look at video and links tonight  

The rectifier is the diode pack and the rebuild kit comes with the brushes, bearings, and a few other goodies.  Through that site you can buy just about any parts or pieces for the alternator.

  On 8/22/2016 at 4:49 PM, Hawkez said:

Thanks for the fast reply. If the alternator is correct then I'll order those parts and give it a go 

 

 

if yours is a Bosch, they have parts for those as well.

Just checked.  It is a Denso. Thanks again 

Just updated the article last night too...

 

Ok, quick question...I have read quite a bit of this thread, and have also gone through about 3 alternators from the box parts store (2 bosch and 1 denso).  There is no local alt shop so I am left to the rebuild option.  I see their are two kits (larry B and a wholesaler).  so...the question...are these kits the sure fire fix for the alternator? (are the good quality parts?)  I am seriously sick of this problem and do not want to have to take the alt off my truck again...

What I'm trying to do is source out the diodes used in the Nations Alternators. Those diodes are rated for much more amperage and should hold up much better.

so is it worth it to start with one of these kits?  Do I need to wait and see the results of the nations alt?  Is buying a nations alt an option?  sorry for all the questions, but this is my work/dd and the majority of my driving is between 45-60mph...so lock up issues are a real problem.

Basically its the poor quality diodes for most of the problems. Some have bought the nations alternators but they are spendy.

so from what you have heard Mike, are the Nations a sure fire fix?

 

(forgive the formality, I've read a lot of your posts on CF and your site and have a tremendous amount of respect for your opinion)

wow! just checked out Nations page and you weren't kidding...I could but a few new alt and rebuild kits for some of the prices...

I've done all of the tricks to fix the hunt but it always comes back. I was having issues, and I swapped my alternator with a reman, ended up being tranny fluid level. Then the new alternator started acting up a few days later and made it shift worse than my stock denso. I replaced the rectifier in the alternator with a brand new one (or so I'm told.) Alternator tests ACV 0.032v idle, and spikes 0.089v @ 2500rpm, but sits around 0.052v at 2500rpm. The hunt does go away with pulling the fuse, so I'm guessing something else in that alternator is causing the hunt, but definitely can't see it on my DVM.

 

Thinking about replacing the reman with a new alternator from the same place, World Power Systems. How do you keep your alternator from acting up, Michael?

 

I just bought 2 new batteries for an unrelated problem, but could those be the cause? - New battery cables as well.

Edited September 21, 20168 yr by rynsc100

If you pulled the fuse and the problem is gone then you still have an bad alternator.

  On 9/21/2016 at 1:13 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

If you pulled the fuse and the problem is gone then you still have an bad alternator.

Yeah, I guess the next biggest problem with the torque converter lock/unlock is sourcing a reliable alternator, huh?

 

I noticed on my particular reman they state they only swap the brushes, and bearings and test everything else. I changed out the rectifier, I'm wondering if it's something else in there. Lke the slip ring :/

 

I'm going to call up the alternator shop and have them bring in the 100% new unit, and swap out the reman. Or I'm considering a PA alternator, but the whole couple day shipping thing is my biggest concern. Darn DD

 

Edited September 21, 20168 yr by rynsc100

I've seen bad brushes, bad rear case where the bearing and shaft jumps, I've seen bad diode the most, but also bad wiring to the field lead can cause issues. I'm trying to source out diode kits and other things for sale here for rebuilding the alternators possibly.

  On 9/21/2016 at 2:01 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

I've seen bad brushes, bad rear case where the bearing and shaft jumps, I've seen bad diode the most, but also bad wiring to the field lead can cause issues. I'm trying to source out diode kits and other things for sale here for rebuilding the alternators possibly.

Definitely the way to go. Has Nationals Alternator said they would even source out their diode packs? - Other option I'm considering 

 

Now I'm going to go root around for an Alternator field lead check in your Articles 

Edited September 21, 20168 yr by rynsc100
Added info.

UPDATE: Changed the alternator with a ProAmp new alternator PN: 13302N, and kept the brand new rectifier off the reman, in case this one starts acting up. The new diodes made the reman not as harsh with the lock/unlock, but it still happened early in the morning. When I tore into the reman, the slip ring and brushes were NOT new or replaced, they had wear on them.

 

Still too early to tell cause it took the reman about 4-5 days to show signs of wear. The for sure sign of an alternator going is by pulling the fuse, period. The alternator I had was showing a stable 0.027-0.031 VAC at idle, 0.051 with errything turned on, but I did notice before I replaced the reman, there were spikes going all the way up to 0.113 VAC with stuff on. 

 

I do need to test the AC from the new alternator, but I am hopeful. 

  On 9/23/2016 at 12:00 PM, rynsc100 said:

0.051 with errything turned on, but I did notice before I replaced the reman, there were spikes going all the way up to 0.113 VAC with stuff on. 

 

 

Don't bother with that side of testing. Load test during AC measure does do anything for us. If there was a way to produce an exact load for point of reference then the number would have meaning. Since your truck with every thing one might be different to my truck with everything on is going to be different amounts of load. This why in my video I don't ask for everything on value because it has no meaning since there is no way to load up exactly 100 amp load or 150 amp load then it would have meaning. Since there is no load reference (actual amp number) there is no way to make any sense from the loaded value AC volts loaded.