I have a 6.7 in my 2007. the turbo just failed and i dont want it to fail again. Will deleting the egr and dpf fix the issue that makes the turbo fail???

I have 86000 on my truck and its on its second turbo as of now. Idk if this helps but I really dont know what to do.

I got i back today and with a turbo costing me 2500 i really dont know what to do now

iirc Dodge had problems with the VGT type turbo. Did a dealer fix it opr an independant? The biggest turbo killer seems to be the egr valve. I read about a simple fix, without violating an emissions inspection, was to stick a thin round slug in the connection at the front of the EGR cooler, where it connects to the tube that runs around the front of the engine to the EGR valve. This cuts out any exhaust making it to the EGR valve, and back into the engine. There are no deletes anywhere. The computer thinks all is well. The fuel milage goes up, supposedly.

wow i would so be willing to try that. which end of the egr does it go on?

$2500 for a turbo!! Don't tell me you had the dealership do the work? There are much cheaper ways to install an HE351VE, you can buy a good used one for $300-$500. Or an upgraded version for less than $2500. Deletes are the best way to keep the turbo's alive. I see your truck in an 07, do you know the last time it had a software upgrade? The 07 software was the hardest on turbos, and from about 09 on it's been much better.

iirc Dodge had problems with the VGT type turbo. Did a dealer fix it opr an independant? The biggest turbo killer seems to be the egr valve. I read about a simple fix, without violating an emissions inspection, was to stick a thin round slug in the connection at the front of the EGR cooler, where it connects to the tube that runs around the front of the engine to the EGR valve. This cuts out any exhaust making it to the EGR valve, and back into the engine. There are no deletes anywhere. The computer thinks all is well. The fuel milage goes up, supposedly.

That isn't a mod I would recommend. The computer will still be modulating the EGR valve and expecting exhaust gas to enter the cylinder. Timing and other parameters are setup for a mixed intake/exhaust and not for clean air.

can i pleed the 5th on where i got it lol ya it was the dealer. I wish i was better educated on this new truck so if i buy the programmer and the delete kits I can save the turbo from failing agian? Can i get the computer reflashed to te 2009 software how?

I have one of these turbos in my shed I paid 150 for. You can have it for that.

can i pleed the 5th on where i got it lol ya it was the dealer. I wish i was better educated on this new truck so if i buy the programmer and the delete kits I can save the turbo from failing agian? Can i get the computer reflashed to te 2009 software how?

It's not 2009 sofwtare, but updated 2007 software. If your going to run a tuner it may not be worth it to check, but without a tuner I would have the dealer make sure you have the lastest revision. A tuner/deletes will help the turbo last longer, from soot build-up related issues. A tuner, improperly used, can cause turbo failure due to overtemp, overspeed, overboosting. But a 60 hp tune, even a 120, won't have those issues unless you live WOT on the autobahn.

$2500 for a turbo!! Don't tell me you had the dealership do the work? There are much cheaper ways to install an HE351VE, you can buy a good used one for $300-$500. Or an upgraded version for less than $2500. Deletes are the best way to keep the turbo's alive. I see your truck in an 07, do you know the last time it had a software upgrade? The 07 software was the hardest on turbos, and from about 09 on it's been much better. That isn't a mod I would recommend. The computer will still be modulating the EGR valve and expecting exhaust gas to enter the cylinder. Timing and other parameters are setup for a mixed intake/exhaust and not for clean air.

There are plenty of '07 and later unning around with the EGR unplugged. You get the CEL, but no other problems, I've read about. Anyway it was something I read over on CF and thought it sounded like a good idea. You stay emissions compliant, with no CEL and no Exhaust going back through the engine. If there is a fuel milage increase associated with this mod. I would think that the PCM is compensating nicely, and all would be well.

There are plenty of '07 and later unning around with the EGR unplugged. You get the CEL, but no other problems, I've read about. Anyway it was something I read over on CF and thought it sounded like a good idea. You stay emissions compliant, with no CEL and no Exhaust going back through the engine. If there is a fuel milage increase associated with this mod. I would think that the PCM is compensating nicely, and all would be well.

Big difference between unplugging the EGR and just inserting a block-off plate. The ECM knows there is an EGR malfunction, and this acts accordingly when it's unplugged. That is not the case with a block-off plate.

Big difference between unplugging the EGR and just inserting a block-off plate. The ECM knows there is an EGR malfunction, and this acts accordingly when it's unplugged. That is not the case with a block-off plate.

Well I understand what your saying, but if it is working OK as I described the mod. Something would have manifested itself by now. I don't go to CF everyday, but I do look. OP has not reported any failures to date (lives in CA). Just saying here, not looking for a contest.

The other issue is that it tries to add EGR it blocks off the clean air with a butterfly valve. This would increase EGT's beyond what stock had designed. I really don't see this as being a safe mod.

The other issue is that it tries to add EGR it blocks off the clean air with a butterfly valve. This would increase EGT's beyond what stock had designed. I really don't see this as being a safe mod.

I think this would be dependant on how the ECM handles this. I'm thinking there are canned loops for the ECM should the EGR valve or cooler become non functional same as unplugging the EGR valve. Again this seems to be working for some people without problems. If I had a '07 or later it would be the first thing I'd try. Deletes would be causing the same condition to manifest itself. You would either have to get a tuner or live with the CEL. I respect your opinion. I'm just needing more than that to say it is a bad thing. Kind of like the Cetane boosters and CRs. It seems to be helpfull because of the 3rd injection event. But when it was first discussed it was poopoo'd, as a bad idea, and harmful to the engines.

I think this would be dependant on how the ECM handles this. I'm thinking there are canned loops for the ECM should the EGR valve or cooler become non functional same as unplugging the EGR valve. Again this seems to be working for some people without problems. If I had a '07 or later it would be the first thing I'd try. Deletes would be causing the same condition to manifest itself. You would either have to get a tuner or live with the CEL. I respect your opinion. I'm just needing more than that to say it is a bad thing. Kind of like the Cetane boosters and CRs. It seems to be helpfull because of the 3rd injection event. But when it was first discussed it was poopoo'd, as a bad idea, and harmful to the engines.

There isn't much to add, other than if you just block it off the ECM will modulate accordingly. EGR effects timing, duration, and the amount of clean air allowed in the cylinder. If the ECM thinks its working its going to try to use it, and I am not sure that's better for the motor. There are people that claim no issues with WMO in their CR, but add a little common sense and well.... As for Cetane, I know first hand my CR does not like it. I get a noisier combustion and a cold motor clack that is very annoying. I can run a 2-3 point increase and be fine, but go above 3 and it's a no-go. But based on some research Cetane is not worth it, lower HP and lower BTU's. I do use it once or twice a year when I will be idling a lot, or slow speed for a long time (i.e hunting and wont break 20 mph for several hundred miles).