Ok Gang... I'm looking for a bit of help on diagnosing a charging issue. Been a busy day for fire calls today and on my way home from this last fire call I was noticing on the SG II my charge voltage is low and erratic. It still within spec of 13.5 to 14.5 volts but it bouncing a bit. With my lights all going its hover right at 13.5 to 13.6 which is usual for a charge voltage. Then it might bounce up to 14.0 to 14.1 then fall again... My first though is field brushes are wore out... Still running stock batteries 8 years old... No codes either... Now here is the kicker I need to do this without throwing a ton of money at parts guessin' I don't want to blow my Christmas Cash on repairs now... HELP!

Yes, you pull the caps off and test the specific gravity of the acid of each cell with a hydrometer.

Yes, you test the specific gravity of each cell. I haven't gone looking for one for ages! That is how we use to test batteries before all the electronics came into play. Check the volts, specific gravity, and put what was called a load test on it (don't think it really did that! but it looked good to the customers! ) :lmao2:And no, it doen't work if you have a sealed battery.

what did you have in mind to test "specific gravity"? what does the "hydrometer" look like?

It has a squeeze ball on the top, in the center was a graduated reservoir, and then the suction tube. You squeezed the ball let the fluid come in and then read what the gravity was, repeat for each cell. You did that for a 6 volt battery as well. This would only work if the battery was fully charged. Oh yes, the other high tech test was to visually look at the cells while you put the "load test" on it. If you saw any bubbles in a cell the battery was bad. It had a short in that cell.

Oh yes, the other high tech test was to visually look at the cells while you put the "load test" on it. If you saw any bubbles in a cell the battery was bad. It had a short in that cell.

Now that something to look at...:eek: I never knew that... wow! I learned something new! :thumbsup:

having seen batteries explode I would never suggest looking into a open cell while loading any battery.

Just turn your grids on and watch voltage for a load test We got a little load tester and that is all it is, just a grid heater inside a little box that keeps you from touching it. I know the battery places have fancier ones that are the size of a desktop computer but I'm sure they use the same principles, just with bigger more precise gauges.

i thought bubbles were sulfation. sulfation leads to cell damage. check this out http://ezinearticles.com/?How-to-Recondition-a-Battery---Sulfation-is-the-Enemy-of-Lead-Acid-Type-Batteries&id=1422644

Hmmm... Simular to what my House inverter does to the battery bank that powers the house. The charger normal keep thing between 26.8 and 28.6 Volts (24 Volts system) but once a month I put it on Equalize Charge which jacks the voltage to 31.5 Volts and charges at a higher voltage and current rate. During this time the batteries tend to bubble and stink of sulfur gasses. After there done I load them up with distilled water and back for another month of use. Funny part is these batteries are nearly 20 years old! Still powering the house and no problems...

well mike what did ya end up doin??? your batteries lived a good long live, get some new ones....from Deka

Well at the momnent done nothing... Since my main issue is most the injector install...

oh cool man...did ya get them 100 dollar 275 tips that you told me about?

Actually no... One member donated the injectors (used) and another member donated the copper shims and O-rings!

i know that now...i seen the thread :smile:

Well since Christmas really is kind of late here... we plan on heading down to Boise, ID or Ontario, OR to go shopping for gifts and such after the holiday rush is over. Not to mention the weather and road conditions are nasty. I've been pricing out batteries so when I'm down there I'll most likely just pick up a pair of new batteries like Wally World or something...

them Everstart type batteries are actually pretty damn good man...i've had a set on my truck for over 4 years now and she cranks over just as easy as the day they were put on

Well I did like I would to the house batteries... I setup a battery charger at 10 Amp charge rate and left it till the amp fell low and the electrolyte was bubbling. (15.5 volt) Then switch to 2 Amp charge rate and left it for the night. (14.5 volt). Fired up this morning not a problem... Good voltage and charge rate. all day long the voltage hung at 14.3 Volts on the SG II and slightly over the 14 mark on the stock gauge. lets see how the batteries hold over night...:rolleyes2:

I noticed yesterday that my truck gauge is reading just over 14 volts but normally in never goes that high so I'll have to keep an eye on that. Maybe a rebuilt alternator will be the ticket since a friend of mine owns a starter and alternator shop.

Here is a link to a refractometer style hydrometer for testing coolant and battery specific gravity: http://www.reichertai.com/files/brochures/1036005303.PDF I have had 2 of these since the mid 80's and they have always been extremely accurate. As of yesterday, my '06 is having a similar issue. I have only had the truck since 12-21, so haven't got past cleaning the battery posts yet. Next will be to only disconnect the grounds from each over night and check for voltage difference. HTH,

I noticed yesterday that my truck gauge is reading just over 14 volts but normally in never goes that high so I'll have to keep an eye on that.

Mike is useing his ScanGauge for that reading. Mine is usually at 14.1. The ScanGauge takes it from the onboard computers. Even though the OEM gauge takes it from there as well, I don't trust that gauge for my volt reading.

Well I did like I would to the house batteries... I setup a battery charger at 10 Amp charge rate and left it till the amp fell low and the electrolyte was bubbling. (15.5 volt) Then switch to 2 Amp charge rate and left it for the night. (14.5 volt).

Fired up this morning not a problem... Good voltage and charge rate. all day long the voltage hung at 14.3 Volts on the SG II and slightly over the 14 mark on the stock gauge.

lets see how the batteries hold over night...:rolleyes2:

Mike and for anyone else with batteries getting tired problems:

I bought a CTEK US7000 12 volt Lead-Acid Battery Charger which also conditions the battery after it charges it up.

http://www.ctek.com/EN-GB/MULTI-XS-7000.aspx?p=features

http://www.ctek.com/EN-GB/MULTI-XS-7000.aspx?p=characteristics

I put this on my OEM original truck batteries and it took the charge about 4 days to get through an entire full charge/reconditon cylce but it made a very noticable improvement in the battery starting power and I noticed the charge voltage on the electric system is a bit higher than before.

I use this charger for my fence charger batteries as well as my truck and tractor batteries. Does a great job. It cost about $114. The prices seem to have come down a little on them since I bought mine. They run about $110 now.

I know your no where near the mileage I have but considering the load you put on your electrical syste with all those lights I would definitely inspect the brushes on your alternator. the bosch/chrysler alts do not have rebuild parts available for them so if you got one and its looking ragged plan on buying a new one. the denso alts have rebuild kits available