Where to start..

2001 dodge 2500 144,000 miles BHAF, Mia silencer ring, 5in exhaust, 35 in tires.

I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago went and test drove it everything good but the abs light was on he said he would get it fixed before he gave it to me and it was but now the speedo is stuck on 26mph but will go back to 0 when i turn the truck off. I tried the cluster test hoping it would fix it or something but still the same thing and it read no codes during that.

Now with the codes i have been doing my homework and looking around to try and figure this out myself but not to sure where the best place to start with so much wrong.

I did this through the odometer trick.

PPCU codes

P0122- Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS)Signal Voltage Too Low / APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptablevoltage

P0622- Generator Field Not Switching Properly /An open or shorted condition detected in the generator

field control circuit.

P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine

control module.

P1765- Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL Circuit /An open or shorted condition is detected in the

Transmission Relay control circuit. This relay suppliespower to the TCC

PECU codes

P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine

control module

P0230- Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) CircuitOut of Range / Problem detected in fuel transfer pump circuits.

Also why driving it is not shifting right from i think 3rd to fourth going to 2 grand before it will shift or i have to let off and barely get back on, and also while going into over drive wot it will rev all the way to 3 grand and not shift unless i let off.

So my guess it the APPS sensor is either bad or i need to do this ats trick i found here https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/4th%20hunt%2046%2047%20RE.pdf

but i dont really want to start hacking into wires right now.

Or is the altenator bad??

one more thing is there a relay located on the transmission or is it in with the fuses??

Any and all help would be highly apreciated!!!

Where to start..

2001 dodge 2500 144,000 miles BHAF, Mia silencer ring, 5in exhaust, 35 in tires.

I just bought this truck 2 weeks ago went and test drove it everything good but the abs light was on he said he would get it fixed before he gave it to me and it was but now the speedo is stuck on 26mph but will go back to 0 when i turn the truck off. I tried the cluster test hoping it would fix it or something but still the same thing and it read no codes during that.

Now with the codes i have been doing my homework and looking around to try and figure this out myself but not to sure where the best place to start with so much wrong.

I did this through the odometer trick.

PPCU codes

P0122- Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS)Signal Voltage Too Low / APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptablevoltage

The APPS sensor failed and it time for replacement. You could try reseting the APPS...

P0622- Generator Field Not Switching Properly /An open or shorted condition detected in the generator

field control circuit.

There is a wiring fault in the alternator field wiring on either the ble or grenn lead. This can be cause by bad brushes in the alternator.

P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine

control module.

P1765- Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL Circuit /An open or shorted condition is detected in the

Transmission Relay control circuit. This relay suppliespower to the TCC

This goes hand in hand with the alternator code. Check for voltage on the blue lead with the key on.

PECU codes

P1693- DTC Detected in Companion Module / A fault has been generated in the companion engine

control module

P0230- Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) CircuitOut of Range / Problem detected in fuel transfer pump circuits.

Basically the lift pump is shorted or open curcuit internally. verify the pump is function with a pressure gauge!

Also why driving it is not shifting right from i think 3rd to fourth going to 2 grand before it will shift or i have to let off and barely get back on, and also while going into over drive wot it will rev all the way to 3 grand and not shift unless i let off.

This because the lockup relay isn't function because the generator field supplies power for the TQ conv. relay...

So my guess it the APPS sensor is either bad or i need to do this ats trick i found here https://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/120505/4th%20hunt%2046%2047%20RE.pdf

but i dont really want to start hacking into wires right now.

I Would verify the APPS by reseting then see if the code returns... If the code returns then the sensor is bad...

Or is the altenator bad??

Pull the alternator and have it bench test and make sure they test the alternator diodes too.

one more thing is there a relay located on the transmission or is it in with the fuses??

Yes... It's in the PDC under the hood...

Any and all help would be highly apreciated!!!

Comments in blue...

Great post. I think a bench test for my alternator is in order too. My truck shifts funny around 35-40 mph. I'm not sure if the convertor is locking and unlocking or if the trans upshifts and then downshifts. Does this sound like an apps sensor that's bad on mine? I reset the apps last week and seemed to be a little better.

I was looking to find out how to reset the apps but didnt find it is it when you turn it to on then push the pedal then let off slowly?

I was looking to find out how to reset the apps but didnt find it is it when you turn it to on then push the pedal then let off slowly?

you have to disconnect your batteries first(both of them, then touch the positive clamp to the negative clamp, then connect them both, and turn key to on,not start, and push the pedal slowly thru to the floor).playing with the apps voltage is a minor bandage that sometimes causes more problems...so i have heard

Great post. I think a bench test for my alternator is in order too. My truck shifts funny around 35-40 mph. I'm not sure if the convertor is locking and unlocking or if the trans upshifts and then downshifts. Does this sound like an apps sensor that's bad on mine? I reset the apps last week and seemed to be a little better.

if the alternator is good, then try the ats trick.

Yes but you have to disconnect the batteries for at least 30 minutes first. Then reconnnect the batteries and do that procedure. Michael has a link on here for the procedure but I can't tell you exactly where to find it but drop him a message and he can hook you up.

Its all right here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm

Yes but you have to disconnect the batteries for at least 30 minutes first. Then reconnnect the batteries and do that procedure. Michael has a link on here for the procedure but I can't tell you exactly where to find it but drop him a message and he can hook you up.

i have read other's post that say if you touch the terminals you don't have to wait any time....i have not confirmed this on my dodge...but clears the CEL on my ranger(otherwise the ranger wait time is an hour).

but clears the CEL on my ranger(otherwise the ranger wait time is an hour).

This is not true with a Cummins... The ECM will only lose the APPS setting as for the CEL light and error code it must meet the requirements to reset the light and clear codes (self erase).

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

(bottom of page)

This is why it bugs me to no end hearing everyone saying "Oh just disconnect your batteries to reset codes". I know without a doubt this is not possible on a 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. But it might create a new error code. Which will be the P0121, P0122 or a P0123 because the limits of the APPS sensor was lost...

There is only 2 way to erase a error code...

[*]OBDII coder reader with a reset ability

[*]Allowing the vehicle to self erase by meeting the conditions to self erase.

So with this being said... All electronic vehicles have a particular re-learn method (after the batteries have been disconnected) for each vehicle. As for the 98.5 to 2002 is just the APPS sensor everything else remains stored on the computer(s).

This is not true with a Cummins... The ECM will only lose the APPS setting as for the CEL light and error code it must meet the requirements to reset the light and clear codes (self erase).

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm

(bottom of page)

This is why it bugs me to no end hearing everyone saying "Oh just disconnect your batteries to reset codes". I know without a doubt this is not possible on a 98.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins. But it might create a new error code. Which will be the P0121, P0122 or a P0123 because the limits of the APPS sensor was lost...

There is only 2 way to erase a error code...

[*]OBDII coder reader with a reset ability

[*]Allowing the vehicle to self erase by meeting the conditions to self erase.

So with this being said... All electronic vehicles have a particular re-learn method (after the batteries have been disconnected) for each vehicle. As for the 98.5 to 2002 is just the APPS sensor everything else remains stored on the computer(s).

good to know...i was not trying to clear shelbyyoder5's check engine light...merely trying to help reset his apps....if i understand you correctly...that will reset the apps but not clear his CEL.

thank you for the info but to clarify

Allowing the vehicle to self erase by meeting the conditions to self erase.

means the successful # of cold starts?

good to know...i was not trying to clear shelbyyoder5's check engine light...merely trying to help reset his apps....if i understand you correctly...that will reset the apps but not clear his CEL.

thank you for the info but to clarify

means the successful # of cold starts?

40 warm up cycles will clear a code.

Warm-Up Cycles

Once the MIL has been extinguished by the Good Trip Counter, the PCM automatically switches to a Warm-Up Cycle Counter that can be viewed on the DRB III. Warm-Up Cycles are used to erase DTCs and Freeze Frames. Forty Warm-Up cycles must occur in order for the PCM to self-erase a DTC and Freeze Frame. A Warm-Up Cycle is defined as follows:

● Engine coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160° F

● Engine coolant temperature must rise by 40° F

● No further faults occur

Are you sure it clears the code? I am thinking it will remain as a logged event to be read with a reader but it just clears the CEL until the event reoccurs.

That's good to know. I learn something on this site every day and usually more than just one thing from Michael or one of the other members.

OK thanks guys for the info finally got some time to mess with it now for the update. I lost the 0122 apps voltage to low code by reseting it only drove it around the neighborhood but did not come back so i guess it is not bad. Also pulled the altenator and got it bench tested and said it was good.. so thats where it stands now. Also anyone have any idea what could be wrong with the speedo stuck on 26? and my engine temp isnt working either, where does the engine temp gauge hook up because i found a thing under the fuel pump near the bottom of the block stiking out with the wires disconnect not to positive what it is.

Edited January 3, 201015 yr by shelbyyoder5
left some stuff out

The apps can have "bad spots" that you could hit with a longer drive so I wouldn't rule it out as good yet, give it a few days of normal driving. Not sure on the speedo thing maybe a bad gauge, is there any other codes? I would plug in the connector that is unhooked and check and clean the engine harness conections and clean the grounds.

Thats the only problem there is just two red wires like someone messed with it before so i have no idea what they connect to.... Also the transmission still isnt shifting right

Did you trace them back to see if they are add on wires, they could have been wires for a comp box tap for the vp44? or do they go into an OEM harness? What does the tranny do or not doing?

The wires are going into the block right under the vp44 im thinking they might be for the engine temp its a little thing sticking out of the block... and the transmission is still doing the same in the first post not shift Wot and not shifting into ida say third unless i let off.

Could be a bad speed sensor causing both speedo and shifting issues. The only sensor I can think of in the area you state is the cam sensor but it is in the front cover not the block and if that was unhooked it wouldn't start or run. Can youn see any other wires from the harness where they may have torn out of?:confused:

Edited January 3, 201015 yr by Wild and Free

This should help you with sender locations

Coolant temp sensor is on right front of engine not on this pic.

Its not the cam sensor but its lower and to the right of where the cam sensor is. i got a picture of it. and i finaly looked at my tranmission realay in the fuse box and it is jumpered with a piece of wire im guessing this could have some ill affects on it? thanks for the diagram ive been looking all over for some.

Edited January 3, 201015 yr by shelbyyoder5
fix