Currently dino diesel here is $3.179 a gallon... Then B2 Diesel is $3.259.

So now if I was to fill up my truck (35 gallons) tank it would be (3.179 x 35 = $111.27) and Bio diesel is ($3.259 x 35 gallons = $114.07) that is a expense of ($114.07 - $111.27 = $2.80) extra. Remember I'm going to lose MPG so I'll be buying more fuel more often...

Now I buy a gallon of 2 cycle oil and it cost about $8 bucks. It will cover 128 gallons of diesel. It will cost me (128 ozs / $8 = 0.06 per ozs.) So if I fill up with dino diesel at ($3.179 x 35 gallons = $111.27) then add my 2 cycle at 128:1 ratio. (35 x $0.06 = $2.10) so my total bill will be ($111.27 + $2.10 = $113.37) which happens to be a difference of ($114.07 - $113.37 = $0.70 Savings)

Now over a 20K miles (1 year for me). I would save about (19 MPG / 20,000 miles = 1052 Gallons) So that is going to be (1,052 Galons x $3.179 = $3,344.31) total fuel cost for the year.

But If I switch to bio diesel. I would use (16 MPG / 20,000 = 1,250 Gallons) So that going to total up to (1,250 Gallons x $3.259 = $4,073.75) in Bio diesel. Which happens to be ($4,073.75 - $3,344.31 = $729.44 more I would be spending per year just for bio diesel...

With $729 dollars I can buy a hell of a toy for the truck with that kind of savings...

But here is the kicker... with 2 cycle oil I've increase MPG value by 2 to 3. Compared to losing it. So now lets figure it out... My cost per mile avg before 2 cycle was $0.18 cents a mile. Now with 2 cycle oil (128:1) ratio my cost per mile is down to $0.15 cents per mile. I've ran 2 cycle now for 20K miles. So ($0.18 - $0.15 = $0.03) now figure over the year running of 2 cycle oil. (20,000 x $0.03 = $600.00) This is how much I saved in a year. But I've spent between $60 to $80 dollars on 2 cycle for the year... So I'm still netting a total savings of ($600 - $80 = $520) per year.

Cost per mile graph. (Started using 2 cycle oil at 85K miles)

Those pennies add up quickly...

And not to mention I gain MPG and HP/TQ number with 2 cycle that you lose with BIO.

My CTD is runnin fine... 1 oz TCW3 to the gallon of dino deisel... I can't imagine puttin anything else in the tank. Dang, I'd forgotten how much fun it is to drive this truck!Thanks, Mike,Russ

I've been getting my B20 from a fuel supplier. They charge the same price for B20 as they do for the Dino because they are a big supporter of BioDiesel. They also move a lot of the B20. I have looked at the fuel in my cans and it looks just as clean as the regular Dino. I did notice a small drop in MPG's using it. Wonder what the results would be if I added a quart of 2 cycle in the tank on the next fill up?

I've been getting my B20 from a fuel supplier. They charge the same price for B20 as they do for the Dino because they are a big supporter of BioDiesel. They also move a lot of the B20. I have looked at the fuel in my cans and it looks just as clean as the regular Dino. I did notice a small drop in MPG's using it. Wonder what the results would be if I added a quart of 2 cycle in the tank on the next fill up?

I dropped the amount of 2 stroke I used to 1/2oz/1gal when I found out that a station I fill at is selling diesel that is anywhere from 5-11% bio depending on availability and price. I'm still getting good mileage too. When I fill at other stations (non bio), I put in the usual 1oz/1gal ratio. If you're getting B-20, you don't need 2 stroke at all for lubricity. I have no idea what B20+1qt of 2 stroke oil will do for you mileage and power. Let us know!! :thumbsup

Yea... As far as I seen B20 is much better for lubricity than 2 cycle oil. But as wintertime temp come on be very careful of the amount of BIO your using. There has been serveral problems with BIO gelling up rock hard and separating from the dino diesel.

Currently there is no additive/anti-gel product that will effect BIO diesel.

B20 reduces mileage but has no better lubrication (statistically) than B2 which does not, so there's really no reason to run it.Unless Bio is very expensive or not available, B2 is going to be the best choice (assuming the Bio and base #2 are quality products)I've tried all three (2-stroke, B20, B2) and got better overall results from B2 than anything else (including straight #2)With B20 I lost mileage (about 1.5-2mpg) but the engine ran very smooth and quiet.With B2 the mileage was the same (maybe a bit better) than straight #2 and just as quiet and smooth as B20.With 2-stroke (1oz/gal), I noticed no difference in noise or mileage over straight #2.There's a noticable difference in startability with Bio (either mix) it's about 54 cetane so glowplugs aren't really needed.The Bio supplier in our area switches to premium diesel in the winter (54 cetane, -15* cloudpoint) even with their B2 mix.They did say not to run B20 in the winter, B100 is a high moisture attractant (like brake fluid) and has a high cloudpoint, higher concentrations increase these issues.Higher concentrations of Bio can also cause issues with additives containing alcohol (which most winter additives have) or other water dispersantsSo, as you go higher than 2% Bio mix your gains lose ground quickly. Lubrication does not increase (the properties reach a saturation point) mileage decreases (probably due to lower BTU's), cloudpoint and water retention also increase.BTW, B100 will remove paint just like brake fluid. 8|

B20 reduces mileage but has no better lubrication (statistically) than B2 which does not, so there's really no reason to run it. Unless Bio is very expensive or not available, B2 is going to be the best choice (assuming the Bio and base #2 are quality products) I've tried all three (2-stroke, B20, B2) and got better overall results from B2 than anything else (including straight #2) With B20 I lost mileage (about 1.5-2mpg) but the engine ran very smooth and quiet. With B2 the mileage was the same (maybe a bit better) than straight #2 and just as quiet and smooth as B20. With 2-stroke (1oz/gal), I noticed no difference in noise or mileage over straight #2. There's a noticable difference in startability with Bio (either mix) it's about 54 cetane so glowplugs aren't really needed. The Bio supplier in our area switches to premium diesel in the winter (54 cetane, -15* cloudpoint) even with their B2 mix. They did say not to run B20 in the winter, B100 is a high moisture attractant (like brake fluid) and has a high cloudpoint, higher concentrations increase these issues. Higher concentrations of Bio can also cause issues with additives containing alcohol (which most winter additives have) or other water dispersants So, as you go higher than 2% Bio mix your gains lose ground quickly. Lubrication does not increase (the properties reach a saturation point) mileage decreases (probably due to lower BTU's), cloudpoint and water retention also increase. BTW, B100 will remove paint just like brake fluid. 8|

Thanks for the great information on Bio Diesel... B)