Well it has come time to rebuild my transmission. Ive recently replaced the governor solenoid and sensor, adjusted bands and replaced filter and fluids. Well now it is not down shifting. The forward band is worn beyond use, and I'm sure that with the shifting issues I've experienced over the last two year that the rest of the internal works are worn just as bad. Ive adjusted bands, changed fluid and filter, adjuster TV cable, replaced solenoid and sensor, and still no improvement. So it is just worn out, closing in on 200,000 miles with a stock tranny, I can't complain. :lol:So I'm doing the Sun Coast M3GA 3 Alto Transmission Kit, Sun COast Triple Disc Torque Converter, Sun Coast Billet FLex Plate/Fly Wheel, ARP Fly Wheel bolt upgrade, Sun Coast's governor solenoid upgrade it with housing, and Mag-Hytec 727 D Deep Dish Pan. What else should I change while in there? The rebuild kit from Sun Coast comes with every thing internal including shift kit for the valve body. But are there other parts I should do while Ive got the tranny on the bench, either to the truck or transmission. I am gonna replace the TV cable also as it is fraying up at the throttle connection. Thank guys.

Are you dead set on the sun coast? I really like Goerend Trans a lot better and you may be able to get it cheaper.

I have a new stock rebuild with less than 5k miles on it for sale.

Ive used Sun Coast before on another trans rebuild for a buddy of mine and it was really good, I really liked it, But I will look into Goerend.SNKEBIT, sorry but I'm not looking to buy a trans, I want to rebuild mine lol

Call erick at Browns Diesel they built the last goerend i installed. He would be glad to give you advice

Also will be getting a new trans cooler and lines, Looking at a Mishimoto Heavy Duty Trans cooler with fan. And Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

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I have a new stock rebuild with less than 5k miles on it for sale.

SNKEBIT, I saw you recently did the manual swap. Ive been toying with the idea for awhile, and now that my auto is about to be toast, it might be a reality. Do you have a parts break down of what you got to do the swap? and how was the job?

Skip the pan Billet input Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

And Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

WalMart has ATF +4 for about $2 a quart less.

The best way to do an auto to manual swap is to get a donor truck.  I found a five speed, that is what I would suggest going with, from a wrecking yard.  You will need to shorten the front driveline, the rear driveline I did not lengthen and it has been fine.  The input shaft on the transfer case needs to be changed out.  The transmission cross member needs to be changed.  The pedals is a snap to do, there is a rod holding the brake pedal, just pull that rod out and insert it in the brake and clutch pedal.

It took me about three days from driving it in the shop to driving it out.  I would do it again in a heartbeat, but mod I have done so far.

Honestly the pans are not worth it. The upgraded cooler you are contemplating will do much more for cooling than any pan is capable of. If you insist on a triple disc a billet input would be a good upgrade IMO, unless you plan on leaving the truck at stock power with no intentions of installing an exhaust brake. For the initial fluid fill just run any old ATF+4 as you will need to do a filter/fluid change after a few hundred miles. Personally I have always used ATF+4, it is a synthetic fluid and by far the best OEM fluid on the market. I talked with a Chrysler trans engineer a few months ago and he conceded that the new ATF+4 is capapble of much more than the 30k mile service intervals that is recomended on the 47RE. Remember, those intervals were developed based on the ATF+3, and the new 68RFE and Aisin have 60k mile intervals and they are coupled to an engine with double the torque output. He recomended I do a sample at 40-45k miles, and go from there. This was based off my uses, which is 90% rural/highway with 30-40% of those miles towing, so others intervals may vary according to their usage. At any rate, I don't see the value in running something like AMSOIL ATF unless you were in some SEVERE driving conditions with high temps. The only other advantage I can see is extended drain intervals, but you still should be dropping the pan to at least do a filter change, so that wipes out any advantages that I can see, but thats just my opinion.

 

What fluid does Sun Coast recomend with their transmissions? I know alot of aftermarket builders actually recomend the Dexron fluid over any synthetic.

Did you get it rebuilt yet? If so let's see the parts list. Mine's in the shop right now being torn down