I've noticed that since I installed a Raptor 100 and have 14+ psi consistently, after the first filter change the filter is going a lot longer than it used to. I bet that before the new pump I was returning little or no fuel to the tank. Pressure was too low. I've noticed that the first stock fuel filter change was very black. Now I can go 10,000 miles and the filter is still white. I think that first filter scrubbed all of the built up junk out of the system.

I am still getting some crud on the inlet filter of the raptor. My intention is to install a simple metal inline filter on the suction side Of the fuel pump. I am thinking of installing a couple of isolation ball valves on both ends of the filter to make changing the filter easy and not loosing much fuel or introducing much air into the fuel line. I think this should be a cheap way to keep the raptor happy and keep the inlet screen clear of debris. With the isolation valves changing the in line filter should take 5 minutes and be cheap.

I just installed ball valves today on mine today to change fuel filters on my airdog

Joe place the ball valves either side of the Raptor and Filter so servicing the pump is easier too.

 

I'd junk the inlet screen on the Raptor after you get a prefilter installed. It's just another restriction you don't need. Make sure the prefilter is designed to go on the suction side.

 

Also junk the intank screens and the little plastic filter in the bottom of the fuel canister. It just unsnaps/ pops off the canister housing.

 

All that stuff in my book is Dodge's cheap way to try and filter without doing it right.

 

On the big Motoryachts when the Cummins engines run reliably  lives depend on it in the open ocean. Each and every Diesel engine at sea has a pre lift pump filter refered to as 'prefilter' or primary filter and then the secondary filter.

 

Talk about long lasting filters... having the primary and secondary filter really works for that

I thought most all of the old metal fuel filters that were used with an engine actuated mechanical fuel pump were suction filters?

I thought most all of the old metal fuel filters that were used with an engine actuated mechanical fuel pump were suction filters?

I guess you are probably right. Mine says on it, 'for suction side only' . I 've never seen one say, 'for pressure side only'

Edited March 14, 201411 yr by JAG1

I'll have to go to a more industrial parts house. 3/8" was as big as one auto parts had. Don't want to introduce a restriction.

My local carquest gets the 1/2" ones. I explained what i want and he had it within 30 seconds

My local carquest gets the 1/2" ones. I explained what i want and he had it within 30 seconds

Yeah, I was close to an O'Riely's so went there. He looked at me cross eyed when I asked for 1/2".

NAPA stocks one for 80's RVs in 1/2". Also, when mounting ball valves, be sure to mount them so that the levers cannot vibrate down into the OFF position.

 

Ed

I used to put zip ties on mine to keep 'em open but after awhile I started to forget to put them on. Never been a problem.

Most of the ball valves are kinda hard to move. Don't see a problem with them opening on their own.

I worked on boats for quite some time. The install of a ball valve could mean lives. It's a simple precaution that could save issues on install.

I am anal about things like that, due to being pulled out of the ocean by Coast Guard helicopters.

Ed

I've got the Vulcan big line hoses. Should I order some fittings from them or can I get something off the shelf? 1/2 barb x male pipe thread.

I took the handles off mine. To many smarta$$es around

I've got the Vulcan big line hoses. Should I order some fittings from them or can I get something off the shelf? 1/2 barb x male pipe thread.

Most any parts store should have that style fitting. Try to make sure it's a push lock style barb and not just a regular barb fitting. Otherwise you will have to use clamps. The push lock fittings, you just push the hose on and you're done.

Aren't the push locks showing some problems with some air and fuel leaks? Not all the time or every one, but, I did hear it's best to get rid of them so I did.

 

I like good old stainless clamps anyhow since my push locks on my compressor hoses always wears out.. don't trust'em.

 

Make sure you stay taper thread to taper thread when adapting the barbed fittings. The ball valves have a tapered thread so stay all tapered and you will have no leaks. Plumbing supply house is where I got the brass for mine.

Edited March 15, 201411 yr by JAG1

JAG I think we are thinking of different push lock fittings. These are the ones I was talking about. I did my whole fuel system with them and they work great! No way for these babies to leak and they are good for 300 psi with no clamps needed!!

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=Push+Lok+fittings&biw=1239&bih=557&tbm=isch&imgil=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRjdnhbdYp38HrmRODaCChkedIuEmvL7gNDKPcmfAME91a9lU9Q9A%253B601%253B480%253BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%25252Fshop%25252Fpoolke%25252Findex.aspx&source=iu&usg=__eYQlr5EZWeqv7xSDNGIxI_i-zTk%3D&sa=X&ei=EG0kU-HqEKn_yQHm5ICwAQ&ved=0CGAQ9QEwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%3BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimage2.cccme.org.cn%252Fi_supply%252F2009%252F6%252F8%252F201012281402331345_174409718.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%252Fshop%252Fpoolke%252Findex.aspx%3B601%3B480

JAG I think we are thinking of different push lock fittings. These are the ones I was talking about. I did my whole fuel system with them and they work great! No way for these babies to leak and they are good for 300 psi with no clamps needed!!

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=Push+Lok+fittings&biw=1239&bih=557&tbm=isch&imgil=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRjdnhbdYp38HrmRODaCChkedIuEmvL7gNDKPcmfAME91a9lU9Q9A%253B601%253B480%253BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%25252Fshop%25252Fpoolke%25252Findex.aspx&source=iu&usg=__eYQlr5EZWeqv7xSDNGIxI_i-zTk%3D&sa=X&ei=EG0kU-HqEKn_yQHm5ICwAQ&ved=0CGAQ9QEwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=h05hZHp7vNMhgM%253A%3BUfejCVgN_WNWkM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fimage2.cccme.org.cn%252Fi_supply%252F2009%252F6%252F8%252F201012281402331345_174409718.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.cccme.org.cn%252Fshop%252Fpoolke%252Findex.aspx%3B601%3B480

 

I agree with you Will. I used the same ones you are showing-came in my Vulcan big line kit. I thought that those types are called 'barbed'  fittings because plumbers and suppliers call those  'barbed'.

 

I have it confused I guess as my new Raptor pump came with the compressor hose type and thought those must be called the 'push locks'

 

Will, I wonder if they should be called clampless barbed or something because of this confusion.

 

I really don't know

Napa had the fittings and filter. But nobody in town had the ball valves in stock. Home depoe will have them and at a better price too.

Joe, Wilco farm stores has everything you need. There's one in canby and one in Oregon City. I generally avoid H.D. because I've had too many problems with them.

Yep, good idea. I get a discount there too.