I've been neglecting the ToyHauler...  I can't keep up with anything but having this 400 feet from the house really puts it outta sight / outta mind.  Our big reenactment trip is in a couple of weeks & suddenly she's announcing all the problems like I'm supposed to magically fix them.  I had a bad fall last Friday...  but a divot in my head & assorted other bruises.  At least the goose egg has gone down but there's a pretty good seam where I hit.  Sorry to gripe...  you all don't need to hear it all. 

 

After having a new rubber roof put on, it only fixed some of the wet spots...  The way the roof slopes forward, the water is like Niagara Falls in a heavy rain...  I'm suspicious of the front clearance lights but the way my legs are I should not be on any ladder and only my right hand is any good so ladder would need to be to the left, where the tongue is.  I bought new lights & underwater marine caulk...  

 

Now she's announced the roof top AIR CONDITIONER is clicking...  yup, I checked & it is random but pretty much constant.  I shut of AC current (breaker) & it still did.  The combo thermostat is to OFF.  I tried all the breakers including the ne marked AC & it's still happening (but remember the unit has been me screwed with before...  salvage title).   

 

Q:  Is the roof top AIR AC current only?  (If so, maybe It's not wired through a breaker?)  I'm thinking I may need to pull the panel to investigate further.  We never camp with electric service so happy to disconnect if we can.

 

Oh, yes, she thinks the batteries are weak because the onboard sensor doesn't read right...  but interior lights work bright & battery charger is on & humming normal.  That panel is notoriously inaccurate.  I started to wire a digital battery meter at one point.   

Edited June 17, 201410 yr by MnTom
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Have the batteries load tested to see where you are being plugged in isn't a good way to check the batteries but to be unplugged and check and see if the batteries hold up to loads without falling on there face.

 

AC system is AC powered only so I would verify the AC power is getting to the unit and then verify the thermostat is triggering properly.

Wife & I had a heated discussion.  The event is one week out.  My capabilities are so reduced...  I can not do what she expects.  This year's reenactment is within driving distance.  She's going to set up a tent camp.  The camper is not going.  I can day trip a couple of days, stay home the rest.  This is disappointing but removes the stress.   

 

We're going to have to get a HVAC guy in to look at the AC unit at some point in the future.  Maybe I can do some of the other things, without a time limit.   

 

edit:  The fresh water system seems to be out as well.  The on/off switch does nothing (on the tank level panel on the outside wall).  We did not intentionally "do anything" but  it has been out of our control while the new roof coating was put on last fall.  Something might have been done inadvertently OR something could have given up the ghost. 

 

If time permits with the Rendezvous Preparations, I think the first thing is to unplug the "Shore Power" to be sure the Line Currant is cut off (disabling the onboard charging system). 

Then I need to ensure the battery voltage (at the batteries on the trailer tongue) & trace it to the fuse panel (under the kitchen). 

I am remembering there's a hidden battery disconnect switch through the bottom of the battery box.  

Then I suppose I pull the water panel from the wall in the kitchen & test power on the back. 

 

I'll report back with results.

Edited May 13, 201411 yr by flagmanruss

I've been meaning to get back to look at this.  I can't afford to send it out so it's fix it or live with it...  can't live w/o water system. 

SOooo, I drove my car out to it, to save my legs. 

Chased the hornets away & got the lid up on the battery back in front (between the front wall & the propane).  Shut off the main switch in the combo panel under the sink...  It did shut off the power tester in the outlet. Pulled the plug on the shore power, just to be sure.  PITA to work on but the 3 RV batteries (3 years old) look like new & have 13+ volts.  False lead.   

I tested power on the AC breaker / DC fuse panel under the sink.  13+ volts.  Power through all the fuses on the exposed contacts.   Access really stinks...  the panel itself can be unscrewed & slid out but can't trust any labels there are. 

 

The water system / holding tank panel on the outside kitchen wall includes a battery power indicator...  stupid colored LEDs.   The battery power indicator is "red", what ever that means.  (This panel must have both power & ground or the indicators would not function.

The water system indicator does not come on.  Pump does not run. 

I'm guessing the wires are some which emerge on the outside wall barely accessible at all through the power cord hatch.  We spray foamed the holes in the outside wall low down & eventually rid ourselves of mice.   Water pump / pressure switch/fuse is accessed through the power cord hatch...  wires disappear into the wall.  Separated from the other wires by the hatch & 3 feet of wall. 

 

I am trying to think this thing through...  Next step (I think) is to pull the water system, panel & use jumper wires to the main panel to test.  My thought is a bad connection...  either the power feed or ground. 

 

All the wire connections are like a wire nut, twisted on, then crimped.  Can't get a test probe in them.  I had wrong tools.  Wiring tools next time.   

Went out front & couldn't find the square bit driver to remove the water system panel.  My idea is to remove this panel from the wall, hopefully...  write down the color codes to the wires then try looking through the cabinette with drawers out to see the colors that come out...  Try locating at the fuse panel. 

Wouldn't hurt to get the colors at the water pump too but that was just black & white (I think)...  before they disappeared into the wall.   

Most of all, I wish there was a bigger hatch on the outside.  I don't know why RVs are wired directly into the circuits but boats have a watertight bulkhead connector (so the heavy cord would not be in the way when working through this hatch. 

Edited June 17, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

So, what would be the fun in that Russ? If it ain't a PITA it ain't worth it. I think that is the motto of paces that build the trailers we tow.

They just make 'em cheap & push 'em out the door.  They are not working through these hatches.  They only see how cheap they can make them...  an extra fitting would just raise costs from their point of view. 

Edited June 18, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

I found the wiring problem on the water system.  I removed the little wall panel & found the power (always on) to the mini-rocker switch was a mass of green verdgis & broke off, probably when I tried to remove the panel.  Replacing the switch would make the problem bigger.   

I'd like to move on to other projects.   

I used to use alcohol on a Q tip to remove salt residue from circuit boards at the electronics shop...  but nothing like this.  I'm thinking vinegar on a Q tip or maybe peroxide.  I couldn't free the other wire & quit rather than break it. 

My thought is to solder a few inches of wire to the switch & then splice the wire with room to work. 

 

I paid a ridiculous amount to have a rubber roof put on this old camper...  hopefully closing in on the leaks.  I found rot under the entrance door...  the step is not supported on one side.  Can't afford to buy another... 

 

Any suggestions for removing the verdigris? 

Edited June 19, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

Try this: Hoppe’s #9 gun cleaning solvent. I found that by searching the interwebs.

Mixed news...  the alcohol removed a bit of corrosion from the circuit board...  changing Q tips often & evaporates cleanly.  The alcohol & peroxide didn't do anything visible where the mini-spade lug had corroded until it broke.  The vinegar did dissolve the big lump but even with a fine wire brush & scotch pads, it's just not getting into the base layer.  I was able to gently pop the switch out of the panel which gives better access from all sides.. 

I have plenty of Hoppes...  I'll give that a try...  nothing to lose. 

I sometimes use a circle of scotch pads on an arbor in my Dremel & that's next. 

Once I get a surface to solder to, I'll solder on a pigtail that I can splice to.   

 

The good news is I used a heavy test lead (from my days in the Electronics Shop) & jumpered power up from the fuse panel under the sink & the switch works & the water pump runs as I knew it would but proves this is the only problem.  

You need to show me how you can attatch the Scotch pads to your dremel.

Easy...  I use the same type arbor that's made for the cut off disc...   I cut a couple of circles out of a Scotch pad...  these might be a bit big at 2".  I usually use 2 thicknesses.  Poke the little screw through the approximate center with a washer on either side...  It wears itself round so don't worry if not exact.  I use them until they are the size of a nickel.

 

See the reddish ones I took off...  worn so they were to the washers... 

Edited June 20, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

Hm, I like that idea!

I've been doing this for years...  because it works...  

Well, the Scotch Bright pad didn't do anything either.  The only thing that helped is the vinegar.  I'm scraping the softened verdigris with any metal tool that'll get in there.  Still digging.  

I can't get the other F spade connector of the switch.  Afraid to try to hard.       

Why is your "area" in Rhode Island so much more corrosive than where I am in  the "rust belt"??

Why is your "area" in Rhode Island so much more corrosive than where I am in  the "rust belt"??

 

I would have to say the year round humidity.  Even things not exposed to salt...  rust quickly.   My cottage (built in 1960) was a mile from the ocean...  the nails rusted out in the floor.  In 2004 I laid ceramic tile floor...  put 500 screws into the sub floor before laying the cement board.  No place in the state is an hour from salt water. 

We have the dread H, H, H weather...  (Hazy, Hot, Humid)   As I type this at 8:45 AM it is (relatively cool this morning...  cold front went through yesterday)...  it's 72 degrees & 75% humidity. 

I was making progress, or so I thought...  brain fart...  set back. 

I was solder splicing & heat shrink tubing the leads to the power switch in the water systems panel on the kitchen wall.  I have a new switch ready to go in. 

Meanwhile the rest of the panel was not functioning correctly...  so I removed & cleaned the circuit board with rubbing alcohol, a Q tip & toothbrush like we always did at the Electronic Shop.  I got the panel working!!

Just then the power lead...  I should have pulled the fuse...  gets lose...  hits the circuit board, there's a spark.  The fuse is still good but the circuit board is non-functional again.  I guess I fried it.   FLYING FORKLIFTS!! 

 

I'm so pissed at myself.  I'm expecting this is a common part which each brand slaps their cover on...  hopefully.  If so, it's just money.  But I thought I had it...  Sigh... 

Negative progress for the day. 

I think I'm right that this was a common part, with a sticky label by each maker...  but the circuit board has a 1995 patent date on it.  Ventline L5071  So it's an obsolete part.  Vent line now makes RV Mobilehome range hoods & such, and these panels were sometimes incorporated into the hoods.  Now owned by Dexter Axle. 

 

Ventline was no help...  gave me the extension for their Maintenance Dept.   I found a supposed "Distributor" in my state...  a trucking company that apparently handles mobile homes.  The receptionist was nice but hadn't a clue.  She thought it might be Special Order...  her supervisor is out for the rest of the day...  to call back tomorrow.   

No dealers in nearby Connecticut, 2 in Massachusetts. 

I may be wasting my time...     

If you shorted the power supply the board shouldn't have been hurt. Just for grins and giggles, have you tried another fuse?