I snaked the little wires from my installed digital DC volt meter...  The display is under the sink on a toggle.  The circuit breaker (AC) & fuse (DC) converter is in the kick space below this.  I wired it to an open fuse (why is it open...  only a few of the 9 slits are in use?)  It didn't work.  I unfastened my connections, clip lead to the DC mains, it works.  Whew! I didn't toast the unit.   

Yes, same unit with salvage title. 

We are not RVing with it, we stick to the basics.  Lights, fridge, stove, furnace, water.  

 

I shut the AC breakers off when I was working...  DC shut off is on the bottom of the box on the tongue (3 group 24 RV batteries).  I am thinking that was it Mike's idea on an inside DC switch is a good one.  Where to put it?  Needs more looking.  Maybe though the shelf that separates the electric compartment from under sink.   

 

More later

I am thinking that was it Mike's idea on an inside DC switch is a good one.  Where to put it?

 

Here is my setup... To the very left is the DC fuse panel, analog volt gauge and cutoff switch. On the floor is the 1,200w inverter and solar controller. To the right is the 120V breaker box with transfer switch for the inverter.

 

 

I went out & noted my AC / DC panel is a MagneTek Model 6345...  with an old style one stage charger.  I found an ungrade kit for it...  price unknown...   but it seems to be quite complete & designed to fit.   http://ourelkhorn.itgo.com/convert.htm

 

Note: the new digital readout & toggle right side above the door... 

 

 

 

 

You'd think with this big a trailer, they'd not have to crowd things.   There's a big inverter inside the door on the right...  I don't know if it works...  we don't need it for anything.  To use it, there's a 'high tech' 3 prong plug to plug into it.   

Edited July 18, 201410 yr by flagmanruss

Your converter looks to be identical to mine!

https://bestconverter.3dcartstores.com/MagnetekParallax-to-Ultra-III_ep_8-1.html  cost is 207.50 (45 amp)  213 (55 amp) + shipping.  

 

The wife & I agreed that in view of the units structural problems, we're going to try to use it with only minor repairs...  opening it up for anything major would certainly be the end of it.   I'm on the fence about this job. 

What do you use the inside battery ON / OFF switch for?  When do you shut it off or is it just for emergency?   The switch than came with my rig is at the batteries, on the tongue...  Inside the frames...  no one would find it unless they knew it was there. 

Mike, your shut off looks like the one Dad had on his boat (auxillary sloop) many years ago.  Good solid swiitch...  never had trouble with it.

I've been know to go out camping leave the RV for long periods. I would hate to have some smart ar$e kid come by and see the switch on the tongue go click and have my entire fridge spoil. Not to mention I don't want any connections outside where road salt is going to attack the electrical. Not to mention if I need a quick way to cut power open cabinet, CLICK! 12 volt is now gone. I had a night where the dog was passing gas and set off the propane alarm and talk about a fight to find my leatherman, hunt there the 12V fuse panel pulling fuses, till it went off. There is a reset but it only last for about 30 seconds and trips again.   At 3am in the morning you willing to just cut the power and go back to sleep deal with airing out the RV in the morning.

The previous owner showed us the switch...  we'd not have found it except when buying batteries!  The battery box is on the V trailer tongue, through the box bottom, inside the V.  Gotta get down on knees to reach it, on the side away from the door.   

 

I being a salvage unit...  certainly not a virgin...  (been f***ed with before).  Can not be sure of anything.  I'm thinking of having a session of pulling fuses & throwing breakers to see what is really on them.  

 

It would be pretty easy to install another battery switch just above the panel, inside the door...  or maybe through the side of the cabinette (gotta talk to the wife).  Just need 1 short jumper to connect from the switch to the panel.

Just something to consider about you master cutoff switch. I've seen plenty of people mount the battery cutoff switch on the battery box. I tend to wonder about how long the switch last with battery acid vapor or water corrosion of the cutoff switch. Kind of like you little trailer your working on Russ you don't want to have exposed wiring to the road elements or battery acid.